Personally I would have bought the lifetime warranty one then and been done with buying them.....

 

I dont see this trk running in the next 15 years
the last which is the 1st one, has lasted 16 years.
Seems logical to me.

 

Whats the reasoning behind this:confused013:

 

I suppose......

 

I bought a Luke's Link for 70 and fixed mine for life... It gets loose I tighten it.

 

So are you looking for validation of your decision?

Most times the trac bar bushings wear out for a reason if you are just normal daily driving the truck so I doubt your new trac bar will last as long as the stock one did unless you fix everything else that is loosy goosy in the front end.

 

No validation...
All grown up, I can think for myself.
Just a decision I thought I would share.
And esp the why.
I already know most here would go with the 400 dollar variety .
Like i patiently pointed out, with 280K on this trk and 16 years old..If this one will accomplish that, there will be be reason for a third one.
It will be 33 years old ,I will be 78 yr old.
I just do not see good math skills set or logic choosing the 400 dollar variety..
Also its just a dam tube .
Some of these vendors want as much for one as if it was a helicopter push pull tube .
Freekin ridicules folks.

 

I don't argue the cost and the tube part. I am just saying that the math you are doing to say it will last 280k is only correct if the rest of the front end is tight and true. And the push pull tube you must be referring to has to be tiny to only be a few hundred lol

 

You know push pull tubes?
Maybe we have something in common ?

 

Only from the civilian side. My airplanes both use push pull tubes for one part or another of the elevator aileron setups. It's aviation ... ain't nothing cheap :rof

 

That is what i am saying
The trac bar (tube) is nothing more then a P.P tube. 400dollars and more for a non cert. part is nutz !
The one I bought from doge is 165.00
It is the supposed up grade from what i have now.
So it has to be better.
I can justify $165.
Not $400
My 1st thought of this stuff is can i make it?
Ans is usually yes.
Next ,@ what cost and time to me .?
If the line is even a mile apart i just buy someone elses. (Cause i usually underestimate a something.)
BUT when the price is miles apart, i make it myself.
@ $ 400 bucks I could make it and have money left over !
But not at $165 by the time i run around and gather everything ......nah
Thats is my logic

 

I replaced my track bar with a moog problem solver , 3 years later ( and one snow/ curb incident ) its a little loose .
I think it was around 89$ with lifetime guarantee.
Probl will turn it in and get a replacement this summer .

Good luck , and yes $400 ish for a track bar kit is too much

 

If it is running Someone else will own it .
I hardly think I will need a one ton @ 78 yrs old.
Thats one reason .

 

Hey, Thumper, you are a youngster! I'm pushing 83 and hope to go a while longer.
I'm still dragging my fifth wheel around about six months of each year; just not going as far as I once did. Getting older might slow you down a little, but it shouldn't stop you.

 

Right on. 83 and rv'ing 6 months a year! Hope to be there someday. Traveling for leisure instead of chasing work that is...... Um ok back to track bars, I realize thumper may buck the trend with a factory style replacement, but my track bar is still holding tight, not sure why but hey if it works this long, why rush to spend hundreds and change it? My rig's always had factory size tires and seen some I'd say "moderate" off road conditions. Perhaps oversize treads and frequent off-roading/abuse take its toll, and may require a better track bar. I do believe the 3rd gen style with bushings at both ends is truly a better design as opposed to the original 2nd gen track bar.

 

Good to know!
Now you ruined my aspirations- i thought I was the oldest most cranky guy on here ! lol
Well, - Maybe i still can get the most cranky award...........LOL
Glad 83 has not slowed you dwn too much.
I have agent Orange disease, makes my bones a little slow and cranky...LOL (along with a little bit of Parkinsons)
I have spent more time working on this trk then most anything else I have ever ever owned....
Maybe the next 15 will be a appeasement.
I need a sabbatical.
i need a deferment plan
A lateral gain.
I need a good Ale.
All the new trks are just as bad I hear, each generation of any and all brands have a special form of misery
Each come with their own pedigree of birth defects.
I think the BIG problem is lots of younger guys have a "first trk " love affair with these things..I dont.
It is just a tool.
My rose collared glasses have been put dwn.
I would much rather work on my other hobbies.

 

I think I know the solution... First get rich.... then buy a new one every 3 years! Everything would be replaced under warranty. You are correct though. Every year, every make, every model has it's problems.

 

We will see how the Toyota dually does..
I am not ever buying the 1st year again.!

 

Thumper that might have been a big issue with your truck....... I too will never buy a first year vehicle..... Way too many issues when they swap.....

 

My track bar is solid and not a tube...

just being facetious.

 

Did you know hollow tube is stronger then solid?
( I just assumed it was hollow, if just bar stock that would explain a LOT.

 

Uhhh ... come again? Are you taking weight into account?

 

I no longer take the time to post the engineering reports.
I just know what they say.

 

Sorry but that statement is dead wrong if you are looking at the same size OD of a tube. If you maximize the weight efficiency like all your push pull tubes you mention are then you are correct. The equations are simple, no report needed to post to prove this.

 

Thumper is not wrong on this. This is why the roll cages in stock cars, and such are tubing rather then solid, beyond the weight savings.

 

Yes. Did you read what I wrote? IF the OD is the same a solid tube is stronger than a hollow tube. If what you say is right then why would anyone use a thicker wall tube?? Isn't a rod just a really thick walled tube?? You should ponder on that one some ...

If you take a tube that is 10 pounds and a rod that is 10 pounds then the tube will be stronger all day long given same material properties.

Everybody gets this "tube is stronger" crap in there head and nobody even thinks about it. The statement should be given the same weight a tube is always stronger.

Some people say its sematics .. I say its not truly understand what you are saying.

I'll just go on my way though as everyone on the internet is right now matter what so oh well :thumbsup:

 

Might I ask where you got this information from? As most engineering handbooks would ten to disagree with you on this on.....

 

Thumper, "updated" Did anyone tell you of any actual difference? Could you see any? I know the Moog has a bigger ball and socket on the upper end and probably tougher rubber on the lower end than some brands. Do you think they are using it.

 

Upping the wall strength is not the same as a solid pipe verse a tube. Tube has one surface to bend, pipe infact has two, and is its own gusset.

How about you show me where I'm wrong.....

Here is some interesting reading for you though.....

http://physics.stackexchange.com/qu...uestions/12913/hollow-tube-stronger-than-solid-bar-of-same-outside-diameter-o-d

 

Upping the wall strength is not the same as a solid pipe verse a tube. Tube has one surface to bend, pipe infact has two, and is its own gusset.

How about you show me where I'm wrong.....

Upping the wall strength? Gussets?? A tube is the same as a pipe for matter of this conversation (yes its measured differently yes its different applications blah blah blah, it has a hollow center, all that matters for this).

You aren't even reading what I am typing so I doubt you will look at the simple equations and see where you are wrong :S: