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Grid heater bolt falling into engine

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353K views 1.6K replies 165 participants last post by  Electrojake  
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#1 ·
Truck had just over 100k. Started knocking real bad 1 day. According to the dealer tech it is not the first 1 he has seen. Cost over 10k to get another engine put in, head was trash and cylinder was pretty scored up. 2013 Cummins all stock.


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#4 ·
Outrageous!!! Was it related to any prior maintenance or repair on the grid heater or associated parts or were those all still factory assembled?

Did FCA offer (or did you ask) for any assistance? Not sure they would but I'm curious.

Sorry that happened, man!

-Guzzler
 
owns 2017 RAM 2500 Laramie
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#5 ·
Not sure what bolt it was honestly. Tech just said it came from the grid heater.

The truck has not had any engine work performed other than a water pump.

After tech said he had seen another 1 that happened under 100k we did ask FCA and was told it was out of warranty and they would do nothing.

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#6 ·
Really? How much "just over 100K" was it?

Sort of makes me glad I ponied up the big bucks for the big extended warranty on mine! $10K would knock me out, I'd have to let my truck go back.
 
#9 ·
I'm having a hard time understanding how one of the grid heater bolts made it's way into the engine
 
#10 ·
I'm with you and I have looked at grid heaters and how they are made.The only way I can see a bolt getting into the engine is possibly the nut fell off and in time wore the insulation around the bolt.This in turn caused arcing and burning the grid from around the bolt giving enough room for the bolt to vibrate free and fall into the engine. Just a wild guess ...
 
owns 2016 Ram Laramie Longhorn
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#12 ·
the issue i have, is all of the bolts are external, with the metal having threads machined into it, no nuts in there. So, for a bolt from the grid heater to go through would require an act of god as the bolt isn't threaded all the way. so even if the head were to snap off, and the bolt to some how thread itself deeper through, eventually the threads would stop and so would the bolt. in order for the bolt to come in from above the heater grip, the heater grid would either need to get bashed out in the center, or removed. it's a full grid in there. there is no way for it to just pass through. (at least it was on my 05 and 02, haven't had this one out on my 12.) Plus for it to make it all the way through the rest of the intake and past the valves, it just seems hard to believe. maybe if there are more pics to see, to me it sounds more like tampering...Or maybe a different bolt from the intake or something? i just don't see this happening. Not saying it didn't, just kinda looking for more info
 
#14 ·
owns 2016 Ram Laramie Longhorn
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#15 ·
now that...looks more like a grid heater plenum to me. lol that i can see something braking and going awry a little easier....
 
#19 ·
I was trying to find a good image of the underside of the heater, having not seen the part in person. While I couldn't find any clear photos, it looks like there should be a stud with a nut on it. The people in the "possible spun bearing" link were arguing over that, with some wondering where the nut went and what damage it might have done on the way. It looks like there is another nut on the heater assembly that also has the potential to come loose and get sucked into the engine. Maybe all the EGR soot will keep most of them from unscrewing all the way....
 
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#24 ·
We'll have to see.

When 05.5-06.5 BRM TDI's started wearing the camshaft, it went from one board member's car to 15+ quick.

2 from 2013 doesn't have me scared. Yet.
 
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#26 ·
Of the millions of 4th gen CTDs on the road, one has had this happen and one " may" have....am I missing something here or are we overreacting a smidge?
 
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#29 ·
Not millions. But yes let's not get carried away that the sky is falling.
 
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#27 ·
Two on this forum..
The dealer op took his too said it wasn't the first he had.. could potentially effect A large mass of trucks..
worth a look before saying goodbye to your warranty.
 
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#28 ·
I would say there is no where near millions of 4th gen CTD trucks running around. In the other thread there is a guy that has seen 6 with the same problem, not to mention the ones we don't hear about.

Who knows how long the bolt was broke before it bounced it's way down an intake port... or how many trucks have broken bolts right now that haven't made it down an intake port...

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#31 ·
I have to admit I took a look at them. Not being Chicken Little, just doing my research in case it does turn out to be a real problem. Plus, the grid sure seems to get sooted up pretty badly.
 
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#32 ·
You should see what a non SCR motors grid looks like in a cold climate. You ever see a shaker grate in a coal fired boiler? Yuck.
 
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#33 ·
Thinking ahead, I am wondering if simply removing power to the heater would prevent the nut & stud falling off, at least as a short term fix. It would definitely prevent the stud from getting arced off. It would also remove the heat cycling that can cause hardware (such as the nut) to come loose. Plus, it would be a good way to see if you would be okay with no grid heater before spending the time and money to delete it. I hear it (or a true delete) will throw a code, though.
 
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#34 ·
If you get a grid heater MIL, pay attention to it! I got the "No voltage drop seen" code from mine shortly before I installed the RaceMe. I ignored it for a couple weeks thinking I could just take care of it when I'm not working so much. Then the truck started making a knocking noise like it had a bad injector. I shut it down immediately and had it towed to the dealer. Long story short, the grid heater shorted, a nut fell out of it and found the #6 cylinder. Just out of warranty, so it's going to cost me $6k. At least the cylinder walls are fine.

On the up side, I won't have to pay for the body damage that occurred when my truck slipped off the lift and a nearby engine hoist went through the fender. Not sure how to address that one with the dealer. :frown2:
 
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#158 ·
I just got a p0381 ‘wait to start light inop’.

Is this a different code than what you got originally?
 
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#36 ·
I was also considering the grid heater delete and I think this post made the decision for me! Sorry to hear about your damage that sucks!
 
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#37 ·
Yep happened to me too but trashed the cylinder so it cost over 11k out of pocket. I also never got a light, just started knocking 1 day. What's your mileage? My dealer said they had seen several happen under warranty.

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