[CTDFAN06]

Is it feasable to drill and tap the stock u joints for grease fittings?

Anything is possible, but it is NOT AT ALL PRACTICAL !

 

[Cummins600]

I've been fortunate so far and the ball joints and universals have held up. I had heard that DC upgraded them at some point because the older style were having a lot of problems. I am getting ready to lift the truck (just a 4.5" and then running the 35" tires) so I was thinking about replacing the u joints and ball joints to prevent any problems since they are already have a few miles on them. No carrier bearing since I have the short bed...so one less to worry about. I saw that the Spicer needed a little work...and the AAM's seem to have the same problems...anyone else have any others that have worked out well??

 

[Towtug]

I hae used the spicer with ease but I have also used the Bruteforce on all my other rigs and thye have worked great!!!

JOSH

 

[wheelin66bronco]

I thinks the Ujoints could be servicable at the least!!!
I would also prefur the axels be Dana 80 rears and Dana 60 or 70s front but thats just becuse I have a couple lockers I would like to slap in!! HEHE

JOSH

I got a guy down the road with a 78 F-350 I'm trying to talk into selling to me, it's just sitting there stacked full of trash and I'm sure hasn't moved in years. I'm trying to decide what to do with it when i get it, thinking of putting it under the Dodge. (and no I won't tell anyone where it is. LOL)

 

[Cummins600]

Take that back...drivers side needs some work. Definitely have a ball joint with a little play. Anywhere you guys are getting them online pretty good...or would I do just as well to go to Napa down the road.

 

[Guest]

Take that back...drivers side needs some work. Definitely have a ball joint with a little play. Anywhere you guys are getting them online pretty good...or would I do just as well to go to Napa down the road.

The cheapest is www.quad4x4.com, but they are just non-greaseable OEM. I am considering buying these and then drilling the cap for a zerk.

Napa has greaseable joints (TRW's IIRC) listed, but you'll be spending $180/side.

Same with Moog's...they are listed, prices are around $180/side...but nobody could get them a few months ago??

steved

 

[Cummins600]

Wow, $219 for all four. That is pretty good. Not sure on the non-greaseable and OEM replacement...but then these did fine and made it about 50k with oversized tires.....

 

[Guest]

I'm at about 92k...the driver's is loose, the passenger's are tight...which seems to be backwards since the edge of most roads are the roughest and that is the side that sees the most impacts...

steved

 

[Cummins600]

Same here..only 46k. My brother just took his 05 in at 23k to have the alignment checked. Found out that all four ball joints have a little play, and the drivers' side wheel bearings are showing some wear on his. His is still under warranty at least and they should replace them. By the way...he didn't take it to DC to have it aligned. I tried that once and paid the $39.95 at DC (with coupon), and when I got the truck back I couldn't believe how terrible it rode. I left it alone for 3 days and noticed a 3 mpg drop!! I took it to the same guy my brother went to, he got it on the rack and set it up...then dropped his jaw at how far off spec it was. He couldn't believe that it was just aligned. By the way...this guy is awesome, years of experience and he went to school with my dad when they were taking all the maintenance tech courses. So we trust him. Anyway, I went to Napa over the weekend. Upper and lower are $95 and $99 by list price. The guy said he can save me a couple bucks and sell them at $90 each. Napa ball joints are Moog (if memory serves me correct)...and Autozone didn't list anything available for the 04 with AAM axles...either DANA 60/70. Kinda funny since everything is AAM now. I have not checked Advanced...but might be worth it.

 

[Guest]

Napa ball joints are Moog (if memory serves me correct)...

I was told they were reboxed TRWs by my Napa guy, but who knows right? IIRC, it was going to cost me $380 to do both sides, upper and lower, with Napa joints.

steved

 

[Cummins600]

Well, there are only a few companies out there that make these things...everyone else just puts there name on it somewhere and claims it to be better than the next. I can't remember which are which...Napa =TRW, Autozone = TRW(???) Yeah, you pretty much never know...and neither do most of the guys behind the counter. Guess that explains why the prices are all within a couple bucks!!

 

[Guest]

I know Advance Auto is TRW...the trac bar for a 2nd gen has TRW cast tright into it! opcorn:

steved

 

[DngrDave]

He he… Refer to my signature…

Cummins built the worlds greatest light duty truck engine. Dodge built the worlds worst light duty truck around it.

:w:

 

[TornadoTJ]

I disagree.

 

[wheelin66bronco]

I disagree.

How could you dissagree??? It is a very well known fact that both Ford and Chevy trucks hold up WAY better than Dodge! It's not even an arguement!
But, like all of us the cummins is worth taking a fall on the truck.
How many of you would rather have a F-350 with a cummins, I would if they would finance it!:lol3:

 

[Cummins600]

I think I would disagree. We have a 79 Ford F100 on the farm....rust, rust, rust. Doesn't get driven a bunch, and we have had all kinds of trouble with it. Chevy...we have an 80 Chevy Silverado on the farm too. Like the Ford...rust and doesn't run well. Both of these were bought new, and both have about 40,000 original miles. Like I said, they don't get driven a lot. None the less, at a previous employer (roofing company) there was an older 1/2 ton Dodge (1982/3), driven more often and out in the weather more, and the body is in great shape...again, it is a roofing truck so dents and dings are common. I also had an 86 Ford with the 4.9 inline 6, ran great and gave me no problems...except for the rusting out all the time. My brother and I had Chevy and GMC before the Dodge...a 2000 GMC and 2001 Chevy. Both showed some rust spots after being 2 yrs old and around 36,000. I have had this Dodge for 2 yrs (since new) and right at 50k...no rust, no problems. This area uses a lot of salt over the winter, and these trucks drove to the same work site on the same roads...so it is a valid comparison. I will say that Dodge used to lack in the comfort side...nice interiors and smooth rides...but they have started to make up for lost time there. When I go to buy a truck, I look at who can make the best deal. They all have their problems..sometimes some are more frequent and less costly, other times it may happen once, but cost a lot.

 

[Guest]

I will add this...

First, I have rode in 2500HD GM's...they ride like crap and rattle like a piece of junk with less than 20k on them...they get poor mileage and ride stiffer than my SOLID FRONT AXLE rig. And this is comparing a 2005 GM to a 2004.5 Cummins. My buddy get WORSE mileage with his DMax than he got with his GASSER F250, and he about cringes everytime he thinks of his 1991 Dodge D350 CTD that got him over 20mpg...

Second, we must keep in mind that "all" the big three engines are medium duty (I use "all" loosely here because I feel only the Duramax and the CTD are truely MD engines)...

I don't care WHAT body/drivetrain you place around the CTD, the drivetrain WILL FAIL FIRST...a medium duty diesel running through a light duty truck drivetrain...what would you expect??

steved

 

[TornadoTJ]

How could you dissagree??? It is a very well known fact that both Ford and Chevy trucks hold up WAY better than Dodge! It's not even an arguement!
But, like all of us the cummins is worth taking a fall on the truck.
How many of you would rather have a F-350 with a cummins, I would if they would finance it!:lol3:

What makes you think that I haven't had my share of Chevys and Fords?