Not sure if you have tried Stiction Eliminator with your oil change but there have been multiple members on here that have reduced the engine oil consumption by using it. I have been using it for the year and a half I’ve owned my truck and my oil consumption has gone from about 2.5 quarts per 5000 miles down to about a quart per 5000 miles. I only use a quart of the SE with 11 quarts of oil at each oil change. @steve05ram360 has a high mileage engine and was really high in the oil consumption (maybe 5 quarts between oil changes) and the SE brought his engine back down to minimal oil consumption. I’d recommend throwing in a 2 quart jug of it and seeing how it goes. After that, it’s up to you if you want to go forward with 2 quarts, one, or none based on the results you see.

 

Thanks I’ll give that a try first

 

Also can try cleaning your CCV filter in tappet cover. It’s not replaceable but others had success soaking overnight in ATF then cleaning out with brake clean. If it’s dirty & saturated in oil, is can cause some crankcase pressure (blowby) & consume oil.

 

OP your problem is the ccv filter is clogged... I would do both recommended actions for your engine.

 

Do you know or have a video on how to clean the filter on on 07 5.9 because I read somewhere that you need to replace the whole valve cover which is almost $1,200 on the 06-07 5.9 thanks for the reply

 

Here is my experience...

PSA - Oil Loss Mystery (solved, cleaned Crankcase Filter)

Starting a fresh thread to share recent experience with my engine, currently has 457k on it, 443k of which I put on it (owned since 13k). Background history: Around 380k or so I noticed oil loss creeping up into the 3~4 qt range over 7000 miles on a 10k OCI. Started using Hot Shots Stiction...

www.cumminsforum.com

 

Great video. Replaced the Valve Cover Breather with an aftermarket 3 years ago, now I'm wondering if I should've kept the stock one and just cleaned it. I'm personally seeing around 1 quart per 1k miles, which is getting a bit too close to Cummins guideline of 1 quart per 500 miles needing a rebuild. Been tossing an engine rebuild around in my mind, without too much excitement about the process, but now I've got a few things to take a look at.

Think I'll clean the CCV filter and stop idling it quite so much to warm the engine since the video states that the turbo needs to spin to prevent oil from leaking through the seals. Suppose a quart of Stiction Eliminator wouldn't hurt once I'm down a quart. Any thoughts if a larger diameter drain hose from the turbo might also help compensate for increased blowby with higher mileage engines?

 

Smoke is not always in visible spectrum during daytime.
Should check at 2k rpm for blow by.
Hate to tell you are running the biggest killers ie aftermarket air filtering and questionable tuning overfueling , known to damage rings, lower life span.

That many miles, those mods, probably need rebuild.
Pull oil sample look for metals Geneos has kits.
Compression test .

 

I've done it. It is pretty easy to take out of the valve cover and clean out, and all places you can buy one from list them as $1000. Because they say it is an integrated part of the valve cover.

https://a.co/d/dVuHHiE

These are the bits you need

 

Thanks for the help will do this this weekend

 

The limit on the return line is the inlet back to the block. Better to clean the ccf & see what it does to oil loss. If you go that route, can you post up your experience in that thread i linked? Either good or bad...

 

I'm on a trip right now so trying to work with the tools I brought with me. Think I'll buy some brake cleaner and flush the CC filter out before I make my return trip, then I can update that thread with my results.

I'm considering tossing some TriboTex (diesel version) in the oil before the drive back. Pretty pricey stuff... $180 for a syringe of it, but seems that people have had good results. We may be getting to the point where, through technological advancement, we're actually able to concoct additives that patch up, or fill in, wear inside of engines. I think it's worth the risk to find out. I'll update on this thread and the other about my results.

Anyone here have experience with TriboTex, by chance?

 

The only way you would be able to find out of TriboTex did anything on the inside of the motor is with a teardown and measurements of wear areas. $180 for a syringe is insanely expensive. Hotshots SE is also expensive but we (on CF) have several people with similar results after using it. (I think some have moved on to the 4th gen trucks and may still be on CF)

Advice is to get a bottle of the SE and put in a quart if there is room. If not enough room add in what you can.

As for idling... unless its below freezing, my engines get under a minute before I roll out. Once its below freezing then I wait for CT's to rise up to 50~70*f before rolling out. Coldest temps we see locally are around 15-20*f and that is rare.

 

You're right, the only true way would be a teardown. Wish I could do a compression test, but I'm not willing to pull the injectors, especially away from my garage. I can track engine noise (video before, video at 1k, video at 2k, etc.), oil consumption, and MPG. I'm willing to take the risk on the TriboTex (with my wallet). In part because I'm curious to see if the technology is there (nanotech, apparently) and also because it may push back the need for a rebuild. Too soon at 240k for these engines. My only concern is that I'll be tossing it in 2.5k miles into an oil change (15w40 Rotella T6 synth), but I plan on taking this oil to 7.5k or 10k miles, so it should have at least 5k miles to do its work.

Was planning on the Hotshots SE before I came across TriboTex, now I really want to see if it's high tech or snake oil. I've started doing the same as you with idle. I used to idle until the temp gauge showed any movement, but found out on this forum that it's actually worse for the engine. Now I idle for 1-3 minutes and take it easy on the diesel pedal til temp is up. How are you keeping an eye on CT that low? I have an OBD2 Bluetooth adapter plugged in, so I'll try and track it more often that way.

Also, if I'm cleaning the CCF around the same time it will make it difficult to claim that reduced oil consumption was from either TriboTex or CCF preventing oil loss through turbo seals (planning on inspecting turbo back home, so will check connecting tubes for oil). I'll have to unfortunately sacrifice the accuracy of that experiment for the trip back.

Another thought.. I'm running 15w40 synthetic, but was considering switching to 5w40 synthetic. Was thinking the 5w40 might distribute oil better on startup and work well in any temperature/location. I'm now second-guessing it, wondering if 5w40 will increase oil consumption on higher mileage engines until it warms up vs the 15w40.

 

I always try to avoid idle time with my truck. When I start it up I just put it into gear and go, but keep it under 2k rpm until the coolant temp and the trans temp are showing a reading. If I ever have to stop in hot temps I just open the windows and turn it off. If I’m stopped in low temps then I just turn it off and sit in the cab…unless the temps are really low like the -10F we had last winter. When that happened I kept it running or plugged in at all times. I followed these same precautions with my 01 and it served me well with that truck too.

 

There is no magic product that is going to magically repair worn out or damaged components.
If you and the OP are lucky there is deposits ie carbon/unburned fuel in piston rings that are allowing oil to bypass rings , at which point an additive and proper cylinder temps might free them.
Best to avoid idle but there is a reason high idle was put on these trucks.

 

I agree with your idle tactic. I keep mine plugged in during winter, but use a smart plug to turn it on/off with a timer. At the moment, it'll run from midnight to 8am, to keep the oil warmed for morning drives. I'm concerned that if I keep it plugged in day/night that I'm slowly cooking/breaking down the oil.

100%. I wouldn't toss this stuff in expecting it to fix a thrown rod I try to not have unreasonable expectations, but think it SHOULD be possible for nanotechnology to fill imperfections in cylinder walls, bearings, and other components due to wear and tear, bad air filters letting dust/dirt through, etc. Whether the technology is there NOW, is another question. I'm just curious enough to try and see. An application of TriboTex is claimed to last 40k miles, through oil changes.

Also, I just learned that our oil pressure gauge is fake. This one is hurting my brain at the moment... All we have is an oil pressure sensor that confirms psi is higher than 6. The computer then controls the gauge, showing imaginary numbers of what it SHOULD be based on rpms and coolant temperature. That's just... dirty. Dirty, rotten deceit. Looks like I'll be installing a mechanical oil pressure gauge next.

 

I don’t think you need to worry about leaving your block heater plugged in all the time for your stated reasons of oil concern. Block heater is actually in the coolant passageways so it’s never in contact with the oil to start with. Also block heater does not really get the engine that warm, no warmer than a hot summer day of 100° sitting in the sun.