Nothing out yet...but damn near anything well be detectable..depends if your tech wants to void your warranty or not

 

TS Performance make the Styker and that is really your only option that is untraceable. It works well from what I have heard

 

It is traceable.....

 

I have a ts stryker on my 14 with the g56 and holly cow is that what that truck needed. You will be super happy with it. Im sending mine in to have them change the mapping to a tow type (tune). As i tow very regularly. I would buy one you will be very happy with it.

 

leftlane928 - does the 5500 C/C spec a more durable clutch or is it the same as 2500/3500 clutch? If the same clutch, are you have any clutch slipping with this programmer installed?

Thanks

 

Get used to it. I am going through the same thing. Now you can imagine what 16,000 lbs behind does to it.

The dmax will darn near run circles around the Cummins.

If you keep it long enough, you may forget about the power you once had with your previous truck, at least that's what I keep telling myself.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

I would get the juice. then just pull it in 6 months when you go do the dealership. people will tel you than it is detectable but I want to see it first to believe it. boost pressure it really not raised so they can't key on that value. In the tow settings regens are not requent at all so they can't key on that info.

If someone can explain to me what parameter they would focus on to "prove" it was intstalled I would listen to there talk but I hvae not seen it yet. it's a duration box basically so unless that information is stored forever I don't know how they would know.

I can maintain 75MPH up a hill if I wanted to with 27" trailer on in tow.

sometimes though with these 3.42s I am not sure dropping a gear won't need to happen. If I regeared though and rpms were a tad higher it would never need to kick down up a grade with 10k or less in tow.

 

If you do go with a programmer, even a mild one will be too much for the stock clutch pulling a trailer up a hill. Be prepared to spend money on a decent clutch.

 

Once you program or "tune", your warranty is dead anyway. So why worry if something is "traceable" or not?

 

Warranty is only dead if they can prove you have a tuner and that was the cause of the issue.

 

All they have to do is SAY you have a tuner and they can restrict your warranty then it is up to YOU to prove you didn't on YOUR dime.

 

Like I said, it's dead if you tune. They can tell, they aren't idiots.

And arguably ANY failure of the drivetrain from that point can be blamed on more power, be it an engine to something as simple as u-joints.

 

Exactly, and then you get into ethics. Is it right to bump up the power and break stuff, then pretend like you did nothing wrong and try to pass the financial burden onto the dealership and honest customers?

 

Thanks for all the replies and opinions everyone. Maybe I'll stick with stock for a while and see how this Ram works out, while the Bowties and the Ovals keep me in the slow lane.

Seems like their is some doubt that these plug-n-play modules are actually untraceable and not sure if I wanna kill my engine/PT warranty right away. I am certain at 100k miles I'll be ready though!

I'll keep reading!

 

Exactly where I was heading with it brownbear.:thumbsup:

I mean, I'm fully on the side that even with a modified engine, your warranty for things like radio or lights or paint shouldn't be affected. But with any additional power, engine/trans/axle warranty are all gone. In my opinion.

 

OP every one of these post about programming is filled with the same doomsayers. The boxes themselves are untraceable. what seems to elude many is common sense. If the box puts any system past threshold it will throw a marker and possibly a code. The boxes were designed to stay within the parameters, if not customers would be upset over check engine lights. The doomsayers also bring up ethics, which they have a point, but at the same time the aftermarket does not want to bring bad upon themselves. At least the big names will keep things at a somewhat conservative point. Also don't for a second think that ram took there new engine to the breaking point with 850 ftlb, knowing full well that Ford or GM would be right behind them to 1 up them. Only a lazy tech will get your warranty revoked because they are too incompetent to figure what the real problem is, and pull the abuse card. Unless you go with an actual programmer all the programmed safeties will be in place. So basically if you want to add anything, use common sense, find a good tech to work on your vehicle, and don't abuse what you have.

 

Wow, a lot of judgements in your post that are just as unfounded as you telling everyone who disagrees with you that they don't know what they're talking about... No one said the Cummins/tranny couldn't "take" additional HP & TQ...MAIN THEME was, "is it detectable"....simple answer, yes as far as I can tell from research on the topic.

Good tech, incompetent tech, doesn't matter, "IF" it turns out to be an expensive warranty repair...I'd just about guarantee that the tech that worked on the truck won't have "the last word" on whose going to pay for the repairs..

Agreed though, I think one should use "common sense" and look at all that is involved before deleting and doing mods....then if nothing happens to the vehicle....that's great, BUT, if something does happen, as stated once determination of problem is engine or tranny and it's found the truck was deleted or modded..it'll end up being on the owner to prove the mod or delete DIDN'T cause the failure....

 

Maybe ram3500dually can back me up here, but ITS NOT UP TO THE TECH OR THE DEALER ANYMORE!! They now have a neat little toy called WiTech. The dealer tech plugs your truck into the computer. That file is downloaded to a big computer. I believe a ram engineer will review any major failures and if they find ANYTHING out of spec they will flag you. So again, it doesn't matter if you are friends with the tech, or have a great relationship with the dealer, you are now dealing with the big boys at RAM. If your box improves performance then it is not within stock spec. They will find it, and they will look with any major failure. There is no hiding anymore. You play, you PAY.

 

You are exactly right, but a majority of the people won't believe you. They think its untraceable, they believe the people that don't know and spread their false stories. When and if the time comes time they will find out the hard way. You can lead a horse to water but.............

 

Too the OP when are you shifting at as far as rpms go I towed a cat 236 skidsteer which is 7000lbs by itself on highway up hills no problem these motors need high rpms specially when towin rev it out and be much happier with it

 

I am upshifting normally at 2000 and sometimes up to 2400 when I am trying to get out of the hole.

Never paid attention to downshift. I went into a moderate hill at 70 mile per hour and dropped 10 mile per hour with full throttle. Again less than 4000 lb.

Don't mind revving the thing, just thought I would have better performance in 6th.

 

IMO, if you are modifying your truck and are worried about the warranty or cannot afford to fix anything that breaks, you should NOT modify your truck.

 

Valid point. I think most people would agree with this. :thumbsup:

-Guzzler

 

If I understand the way things are now, when you take a vehicle in for service they can easily see how many times updates have been made. If the number of updates is more than what they have done, they know something is up. If this is true, they can easily catch when a tune was uploaded. I don't know if they could tell if something was plugged in somewhere to cheat the system for more performance?

 

Yes -- Most likely. See my post #26 above.

-Guzzler

 

I always found downshifting pretty easy........

 

Yeah....can't say I have an issue with that either. This is manual transmission no. 6 for me, 4 of which I have currently and drive.

If I decide not to go with a power adder, then I'll haul back a gear.

 

I have the Edge Attitude with Juice and I pull 15,000 plus on a regular basis. In Tow mode I don't even notice the trailer back there. Be sure to add in the Turbo Timer is you go this route.

 

Do you tow in the mountains? What truck do you have if I may ask?

 

My point is that the TS stryker is not going to show anything if it worksas TS advertises. I work with programming and know what can be done. If you reprogram the ECM and RAM looks at it, It can be detected. If you modify signals within the parameters of the programming, noone will be the wiser. If the TS Stryker or Edge push it outside the parameters one has to look into what is going on. My experience with incompetent techs is from Ford. I did not have any mods done, but had a long issue that I could see the blame game happening. Fortunatly I didn't have the issue but saw how the whole process worked, I can't imagine Ram, Dodge, or Chevy are much different. The WItech will give mother RAM the info, but the tech is the eyes and ears of the opperation, not enough area engineers to go around. you would need a major program change to cause one of these technelogical marvels to bypass its safeties. and that would be a major mistake if you wanted to stay hidden. gone are the days of major program modifications if you want to be stealth about it. I love a warranty, but I want to buy something that will likely not need it. I can by a starter from the local chain store, and recieve a warrenty, but I have a better chance of using that warranty during the warranty period compared to if I just pony up and spend the money to begin with, and buy a new starter from a supply house. I just find issue with the naysayers that refute the undetectibleness of the Stryker if it in fact works as advertised.Maybe it would be put better that undetectable is a theory rather than a lie or falsehood.

 

I talked to edge today and they said the juice wont void the warranty.

 

Get that in writing. You will need it for your lawyer if you have any problems down the road.

 

To the OP, are you sure something isn't WRONG with your truck? Have you complained to a dealer? Even with my stock 2003, I rarely have to downshift to 5th well towing unless I am hitting long steep mountain grades. That is towing at 65 MPH, RPM @ 2100 with 1300 lbs in the box (or more) and a 7000lbs bumper pull RV trailer.

I would think that your 2014 should surely out perform a 2003? :confused013: I know your gearing is higher (3:42 vs. 3:73) but your also dealing with larger HP and TQ numbers. Infact, I remember reading on here that the manual transmissions actually get power to the ground than the autos with the higher torque numbers..at least until 5th and 6th gear and even then the manual isn't far behind...

Does anyone else feel something is fishy here? It just seems weird and TBH very disappointing to me - although my '11 downshifts to 5th all the time to maintain speed with any load so maybe its just how the newer trucks are? (never driven a 4th gen manual..)

 

All, I have a 2013 2500 with manual tran. I live in Utah plent of mountains. The truck has 3.42 gears and easily pulls 10k on Parleys canyon big pass comming into Salt lake city. Yes you start out the pass in 6th and you end up in fifth near the summit . Also depends if you get caught behind slower moving traffic and have to slow. Once slowed you aint going to catch up until you start down the other side. But I do have an observation regarding the Stryer in line module. Since the automatic HO are already pushing 385hp and 850 torque wouldnot the Stryker modul be designed not to exceed that performance critera. in the manual version. duane57