[mk38tech]

whats the "solenoid job"???

 

[Mike-C]

TC Lock Up Thread

MK, there are two control solenoids that live in the front right corner of the trans. They control the TC's lock up and the trans pressure. They are immediately visible once the pan and filter are removed. All you need are a T-25 Torx and a 3/8 socket and they fall out into your hands. $100 for the pair on E-Bay
See here:
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3...m.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/310260-replacing-governor-pressure-solenoid.html

Mike Coleman
N-Lancaster, Ontario, Canada
2000 3500 Dually 2WD, 150,000 miles
Diamond Eye 4" Exhaust, S&B Airbox, Sport Lights

 

[jason]

If your going to replace your solenoid get Borg Warner's upgraded solenoid I am pretty sure their part number is 50185. That's off the top of my head but I'm sure it's accurate. I got mine at transtar along with the sensor. They are super easy to replace. I have it in mine and love it.

 

[Gnelsonjr]

Will a transmission rebuild make the TQ lock/un-lock at 45-50 go away?

 

[mk38tech]

triple disk should :thumbsup:

 

[Gnelsonjr]

Ok Cool. Thats the plan.

 

[Shameless]

I felt like I had to respond here because this thread is getting a little skewed from its path. mk38tech, you had the answer earlier with the alternator replacement. Telling Gnelsonjr that a rebuild will fix his lock/unlock issue is completely misleading. Gnelsonjr you need to address the lock/unlock issue before you go out and spend a pant load of money on a new trans and triple disk converter because I can assure you those parts won't fix your issue. I have battled the lock/unlock issue for years now trying all the fixes you can find short of rewires and the DTT or BD Diesel filters. All the stuff that everyone talks about on here regarding checking grounds is true. It came down to replacing my alternator repairing the problem. But that was short lived as I may only have 25k on a brand new alternator and the problem reappeared. It started acting up just before I broke the input shaft of my transmission. I just replaced it with a Garmon unit with triple disk and I had to park the truck until I get to bottom of this before I ruin a 5K transmission. Gnelson, check your grounds and make sure everything is Ok and then I might suggest replacing the alternator with the single wire unit mk38tech linked from paperformance (post #396). mk38tech, that was a great find and I think that I have seen it in the past but had since forgotten about it. We should'nt suggest to anyone to replace their trans before they fix the real problem. In my case, I am still hunting for a solution hence the reason I ended on up this thread. I am seriously considering the single wire replacement unit even though I hate to replace my almost new unit. Dozer 12216, I am supportive of your thoughts on why these trucks have gone for years and all of a sudden they start acting up. I have wanted to fix the true problem rather than mask it(frustrating effort). I think a combination of things lead to this problem like if you ever change your oil filter and brush the filter against the battery post on the alternator causing a spark could damage the alternator or the PCM. The wiring is not of heavy enough guage and can burn up over time. Resistance values is how the PCM reads its measurements from sensors and other components. How else would it know you have a bulb out? One person on here mentioned his tail light wiring was messed up and he tried to fix it and began to have issues afterwards. I could see that being a problem. We have to be careful when we modify the wiring or it could cause a problem elsewhere. If someone was brave/rich/stupid enough to replace the PCM we might have some different replys on how to fix this issue. It may have been done in the past but I dont remember. Its strnage that noone has tried that along with a known good operating alternator to see if it fixes it.

 

[mk38tech]

haha. i was willing in the past but the only place i can find another pcm is ebay. and its used at that. i dont even trust chrystler could get that right so i think they are out of the question. im pretty much in the same boat right now. im preparing for suncoast to get started on my 6k tranny but i need it to be running right before they put it in. shameless i think you are on the right track. most people dont understand that sensors affect the pcm. i recently had 4 sensors(speed sensors, crank, and abs) go out on me at the exact same time. i find that to be more than coincidence. ive also had my transmission fuse(10a?) blow a few times with no way to know. just happened to be looking at fuses and discovered it. i have a few theories.
1. when my sensors were shot, i had no codes, no lights, no nothing showing they were gone. just said screw it and started replacing with process of elimination. When you have a sensor out like your speed sensor on the transmission, does this not cause problem with pcm operation? when i pulled my meter out i could not find the correct voltage coming off the pcm for the speed sensor nor correct resistance. this has to affect operation.

2. anyone ever pull your pcm plugs off, clean your connections and put them back on and experience a brand new truck? i have always suspected the pcm pins and how the plugs could possibly misshape them over time or the plugs somehow misshape or corrode.

3. these trucks lasted this long before they started acting up in the masses. the trucks make a lot of noise and vibrate a lot. im in search of someone that has had a ecm diagnosed, because i think there is something missing between the ecm and pcm.


my overall thought is this has to be electronic and that goes without saying but to save people money. mechanics like this really dont fail, thats why we have timing gears not cheap *** timing belts we have to replace. people are buying expensive parts and whole transmissions just to be let down again by electronics. i still cant see the problem. gentlemen in a few months i will be changing jobs with the military. it will be the experience of a lifetime and it will require ALL of my time. i need to get this problem solved soon. thanks for the info. yall take care

 

[Gnelsonjr]

Shameless, Thank you for your great post. I will look at an alternator replacement. I have in the past 2 months replaced batteries, negative cables with 2/0 cable and all new battery clamps. The problem continues. I have tried the DTT fix and it has been the ONLY part to "patch" the problem. Im not happy with the solution because it is only a patch and i want a fix. But the problem is currently gone.

I have been told by a local shop that there is a speed lock box made by suncoast that will "Fix" the problem. Is anyone familiar with this part?

I felt like I had to respond here because this thread is getting a little skewed from its path. mk38tech, you had the answer earlier with the alternator replacement. Telling Gnelsonjr that a rebuild will fix his lock/unlock issue is completely misleading. Gnelsonjr you need to address the lock/unlock issue before you go out and spend a pant load of money on a new trans and triple disk converter because I can assure you those parts won't fix your issue. I have battled the lock/unlock issue for years now trying all the fixes you can find short of rewires and the DTT or BD Diesel filters. All the stuff that everyone talks about on here regarding checking grounds is true. It came down to replacing my alternator repairing the problem. But that was short lived as I may only have 25k on a brand new alternator and the problem reappeared. It started acting up just before I broke the input shaft of my transmission. I just replaced it with a Garmon unit with triple disk and I had to park the truck until I get to bottom of this before I ruin a 5K transmission. Gnelson, check your grounds and make sure everything is Ok and then I might suggest replacing the alternator with the single wire unit mk38tech linked from paperformance (post #396). mk38tech, that was a great find and I think that I have seen it in the past but had since forgotten about it. We should'nt suggest to anyone to replace their trans before they fix the real problem. In my case, I am still hunting for a solution hence the reason I ended on up this thread. I am seriously considering the single wire replacement unit even though I hate to replace my almost new unit. Dozer 12216, I am supportive of your thoughts on why these trucks have gone for years and all of a sudden they start acting up. I have wanted to fix the true problem rather than mask it(frustrating effort). I think a combination of things lead to this problem like if you ever change your oil filter and brush the filter against the battery post on the alternator causing a spark could damage the alternator or the PCM. The wiring is not of heavy enough guage and can burn up over time. Resistance values is how the PCM reads its measurements from sensors and other components. How else would it know you have a bulb out? One person on here mentioned his tail light wiring was messed up and he tried to fix it and began to have issues afterwards. I could see that being a problem. We have to be careful when we modify the wiring or it could cause a problem elsewhere. If someone was brave/rich/stupid enough to replace the PCM we might have some different replys on how to fix this issue. It may have been done in the past but I dont remember. Its strnage that noone has tried that along with a known good operating alternator to see if it fixes it.

 

[Shameless]

mk38tech you are a soldier if you have been on the lookout for a replacement PCM. I Looked at the possibility a few years ago but opted not to per all the suggestions I had found for all the bogus fixes. I am now a few years wiser and a lot of dollars lighter in the wallet after trying most all the stuff i'm sure you have read about starting with the APPS. I was recently willing to purchase the DTT fix but stopped just before I did. I am sure it works as well as others like Suncoast which you might want to get with prior to your tranny build. Each have a great reputation. As for your sensor failure, I don't think there is coincidence there just cold hard facts that something else is going on. I have never pulled my plugs greased them and put them back as I didnt feel like there would be a problem there. I have been told that the 2 wire connection on the back of the alternator could be suspect and havent done anyhting with it yet. I am on the short path to fix it since I have a new tranny to protect. The alternator seems to me that it is quite possibly the best way to deal with if you have the $$$. If you elect to go the cheaper route I couldn't blame you for that either as I was looking to do the same. Other posts here earlier have hailed the single wire alternator replacement as the fix. If you look at Jeff Garmon's site he offers a replacement alternator with an external VR. I trust that he has done some homework to make this an excellent fix for his transmissions. Gnelsonjr, your welcome, I am just trying to be an active member of fixin what just aint right! Since replacement PCM seems to be out of the question, I am leaning strongly on the alternator replacement with voltage regualtion removed from the PCM as the last resort we have. Im not thoroughly convinced but we are narrowing this thing down.
If my posts are long winded it's because I feel like I have alot to say and don't spend alot of time on the forum.

 

[mk38tech]

Well as u guys remember I needed a new alternator so I did the one wire fix and the truck ran great but it was short lived. There's a sure way for me to fix mine and that's put the N-25 filter back on, but I didn't have my passing gear so I knew I had to take the thing back off. You know what the original mistake we all made was right...? We bought automatics. Never again will I even consider one. I bought an 05 jeep liberty crd (which only came with a 545 rfe a/t) a while back and it even feels like its doing the same thing. Its only got 77k on it. I can tell u this whatever the fix is for most of us, the problem is going to say chrystler on it. Love diesels, hate chrystler. What can ya do

 

[Shameless]

Your comments mk38tech are understandable. I try to stick with it. It becomes difficult some days. I worked with the truck last night and did something that changed its behavior to doing what its supposed to for the moment. I disconnected and reconnect the alternator two wire connection, unplugged the negative terminals that lead to the PCM and into the harness behind the alternator. I also unplugged the right hand connector on the PCM and reconnected it. I didnt grease anything yet. But took the truck for a spin and everything was working fine. Now I suspect this will be short lived and it will begin to have problems but at least one of those connections had an impact on my trucks behavior. Im taking the advise on the connections at the moment before I spend money on anything else. It is disappointing to hear the single wire alternator did not fix your issues. That makes me hesitate about that attempt to fix. I will keep things updated although it may take some time as it is not my daily driver.

 

[Cummins600]

Shameless, excellent response and way to keep the guys on track. If you guys scan through all the responses to this thread, you will see there are a number of 'fixes'. Most are only patches though. The fixes really do seem to come from checking/cleaning grounds, connections, and cables for wear.

This thread is just one of those that reminds me why I keep coming back to this forum. Great people and great responses.

 

[kc24valve]

Havin issues with my 01. New built trans

Had the same issues on my old tranny. Now I have new heavy duty clutches... ats billet input/output and new seals and bearings. Precision Industries converter. Still the lockup/unlock problem exist. Happens when im rolling up to a hill and its under a load between 30 to 50mph and it starts huntin for a gear. All new stuff! I just ordered the BD noise insulator hoping this fixes mine. All my connections are good. Batteries are new. Alternator tested fine also. Its really getting annoying. Ive tried the apps reset and insulating the black and tan wire from the alternator to passenger side battery with aluminum foil but still no fix. Could a brake switch cause this? I thought i remember reading something about brake switches causing lockup/unlock problems some time back on this thread. Dont see how it could relate to that though. My brake lights will stay on a good 3 seconds after ive lifted my foot off the pedal. Any Suggestions or input from ya guys would be greatly appreciated! always open to new ideas or places to check. Thanks!

 

[dozer12216]

Well, the brake switch is a direct input for converter unlock. A brake switch out of adjustment or a brake pedel rider could cause. Also the speed sensor on left rear of trannny is a lock/ulock input.
Too many guys look at connections and wave hand over saying it good. You have to hunt down ALL connections and physically inspect.
Try completelly disconnecting the alternator for a few miles to confirm not problem. A marginal alternator and wiring issue together would give you fits to figure.
gray connectors near right side battery?????

 

[kc24valve]

Where is the brake switch located? Is it up under the dash?

 

[kc24valve]

Just installed the bd noise filter. Problem solved!

 

[mk38tech]

Just installed the bd noise filter. Problem solved!

Keep us updated on how long that last you. And do you still have passing gear?

 

[1999BigBlueCummins]

bought a "BD Isolater" for $25. took 10 minutes to install becasue i was very careful. WORKED immediatly siltt perfect after 2 years. the guy from ATS at Schied Deisel Extrav gave me the tip.

 

[Alabama Slamma]

Sorry guys been trying to read through all theses responses since last night and it's a little bit overwhelming. Stock transmission, lock up switch or not, and if I so will the shifting while locked in damage it even if not being "rode hard"