Not really a product as such, but I did the Suncoast APPS rewire and it took care of my converter lock-up issues.
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June's Cummins of the Month is now open for entries! SUMMER FUN
TC lock up thread
guys i want to put together a few things to help our members out. we have a lot of people having lock up issues lately. i plan to put something together in the troubleshooting thread. :thumbsup: if there is a vendor that has a product on the forum and you have used it please comment and post a link. if anyone has a pic of a wiring diagram or anything like this please post. thanks guys 
link to one type of fix
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...cussion/269858-bd-noise-isolator-install.html
HI GUYS: I HAVE COPIED THE ENTIRE THREAD INTO A "WORD.DOC" AND WILL FORWARD TO YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS UPON REQUEST. IT WILL BE EASIER TO READ. UNFORTUNATELLY THE FORMATTING AND INDIVIDUAL POSTER WAS LOST. YOU CAN TRACK THE POSTER BY LOOKING AT ORGINAL POST.
AGAIN THERE IS NO ONE FIX CURES ALL.
THANKS,DOZER12216[/COLOR]
link to one type of fix
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...cussion/269858-bd-noise-isolator-install.html
HI GUYS: I HAVE COPIED THE ENTIRE THREAD INTO A "WORD.DOC" AND WILL FORWARD TO YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS UPON REQUEST. IT WILL BE EASIER TO READ. UNFORTUNATELLY THE FORMATTING AND INDIVIDUAL POSTER WAS LOST. YOU CAN TRACK THE POSTER BY LOOKING AT ORGINAL POST.
AGAIN THERE IS NO ONE FIX CURES ALL.
THANKS,DOZER12216[/COLOR]
1 - 20 of 905 Posts
Wrap the black and tan wire going from the alternator to the passenger battery in aluminum foil. Solved the problem on my stock tranny. When I got my dtt I got their noise filter and that solved the problem permanently.
Don't beleive there is a one fix cures all repair. Suggest starting with grounds and power connections. Clean rust and seal with grease.
Next have batteries individually tested at parts store and have alternator bench tested. A inspection of brushes for grease on slip rings would be in order while off.
Try shielding the wiring at alternator. Wrap aluminim foil around wiring for 18 inches of so, back toward engine. Taking tape and couvlute off and wraping alternator wires (3)with very small wire for 18 inches or so and then ground this shielding wire. Do Not short the shielding wire to alternator wiring. You can now rewap the convlute for nice apperance.
Some other items of intrest. APPS reset mayh be of benefit. Killing memory by disconneting all battery terminals and toughing a positive lead to a negative. You are shorting the wiring, NOT the batteries. This kills memories and fault codes.
A poorly adjsusted brake switch or erratic speed sensor need mentioning as a possibility.
A condenser (radio supression condenser from old Chrysler ignition coil) housing mounted to alternator frame with the lead connected to alt. output terminal is effective in reducing alternator stator wiring imbalance and internal condenser issues.
These are very low cost repairs and have been effective. The tranny specialist also offer various supression fixes and rewiring kits, but are expensive in most cases. Some have success with kits and some don't seem to, is my take on them.
A worn out torque converter may be the culprit also.
Next have batteries individually tested at parts store and have alternator bench tested. A inspection of brushes for grease on slip rings would be in order while off.
Try shielding the wiring at alternator. Wrap aluminim foil around wiring for 18 inches of so, back toward engine. Taking tape and couvlute off and wraping alternator wires (3)with very small wire for 18 inches or so and then ground this shielding wire. Do Not short the shielding wire to alternator wiring. You can now rewap the convlute for nice apperance.
Some other items of intrest. APPS reset mayh be of benefit. Killing memory by disconneting all battery terminals and toughing a positive lead to a negative. You are shorting the wiring, NOT the batteries. This kills memories and fault codes.
A poorly adjsusted brake switch or erratic speed sensor need mentioning as a possibility.
A condenser (radio supression condenser from old Chrysler ignition coil) housing mounted to alternator frame with the lead connected to alt. output terminal is effective in reducing alternator stator wiring imbalance and internal condenser issues.
These are very low cost repairs and have been effective. The tranny specialist also offer various supression fixes and rewiring kits, but are expensive in most cases. Some have success with kits and some don't seem to, is my take on them.
A worn out torque converter may be the culprit also.
correct dozer :thumbsup: this is useful info to everyone. this is why i wanted different people to post their ways things work. a variety of solutions for multiple problems is needed. thanks dozerDon't beleive there is a one fix cures all repair. Suggest starting with grounds and power connections. Clean rust and seal with grease.
Next have batteries individually tested at parts store and have alternator bench tested. A inspection of brushes for grease on slip rings would be in order while off.
Try shielding the wiring at alternator. Wrap aluminim foil around wiring for 18 inches of so, back toward engine. Taking tape and couvlute off and wraping alternator wires (3)with very small wire for 18 inches or so and then ground this shielding wire. Do Not short the shielding wire to alternator wiring. You can now rewap the convlute for nice apperance.
Some other items of intrest. APPS reset mayh be of benefit. Killing memory by disconneting all battery terminals and toughing a positive lead to a negative. You are shorting the wiring, NOT the batteries. This kills memories and fault codes.
A poorly adjsusted brake switch or erratic speed sensor need mentioning as a possibility.
A condenser (radio supression condenser from old Chrysler ignition coil) housing mounted to alternator frame with the lead connected to alt. output terminal is effective in reducing alternator stator wiring imbalance and internal condenser issues.
These are very low cost repairs and have been effective. The tranny specialist also offer various supression fixes and rewiring kits, but are expensive in most cases. Some have success with kits and some don't seem to, is my take on them.
A worn out torque converter may be the culprit also.
Sure there's a fix to it.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-tech-articles/70447-tc-switch-howto-pics.html
Cheap, simple, and it works.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-tech-articles/70447-tc-switch-howto-pics.html
Cheap, simple, and it works.
I had problems also and the combination of wrappin the alternator wire ,apps reset,and cleanin gounds have cured mine SO FAR.but thanks for the posts
have your batteries checked. they have to be in good condition. even if your truck starts fine one could be marginal and cause problems. batteries are big noise filters. electrical noise is what causes these trans.tc problems. this is what i as told by Bill owner of DTT transmissions. it worked for me, it might for you. also a noise filter from DTT.
here is the ATS link
https://www.atsdiesel.com/PDF/120505/4th hunt 46 47 RE.pdf
and the suncoast (click on the down load instructions)
Sun Coast 24 Valve APPS Rewire Instruction Download
https://www.atsdiesel.com/PDF/120505/4th hunt 46 47 RE.pdf
and the suncoast (click on the down load instructions)
Sun Coast 24 Valve APPS Rewire Instruction Download
the instructions from the ats link don't work on my truck. The only thing that it did was keep my transmission from going into overdrive...I'm thinking about trying the suncoast one tomorrow to see if it works.
Well, I am in the same boat. Tranny wont shift into 4th after doing the ATS fix. Any other ideas out there, before I drop the big bucks and run it into the shop.the instructions from the ats link don't work on my truck. The only thing that it did was keep my transmission from going into overdrive...I'm thinking about trying the suncoast one tomorrow to see if it works.
My TC Lockup issue is solved by applying dielectric grease to my alternator harness plug and replugging back in. Don't know why, but it works every time. I keep my terminals clean also.
oddly enough i began having a lock up problem between 40 and 50 mph right after the first oil change i did on my newish truck, the problem went away after a while and tonight i did my secound oil change ( i have owned the truck for about 2 months ) and the problem has started again. i went to school for diesel and i am getting pretty mad because oil changes and torque converters should not effect eachother, please tell me what the hell is wrong with this thing and why the problem only comes back when i do an oil change. coincedence??
Hmm, everyone seems to be having this issue between 40-50 mph. I've been having TC lockup issues between 30-40 mph. Is this basically the same thing?
Mine will do it pretty much as soon as it shifts to OD and for about 10 mph after that, then clear up and go away. Only seems to do it at those speeds......RPM a contributing factor? I don't know.Hmm, everyone seems to be having this issue between 40-50 mph. I've been having TC lockup issues between 30-40 mph. Is this basically the same thing?
Ditto on my truck... when it shifts in to OD (45-50)and then locks it LOCK/UNLOCKS untill I get to 55. IF I lock out overdrive it does the same thing in 3rd just after it goes in on light pedal. I cleaned the ground strap at the PCM and that worked for a while, I guess I will do the SunCoast fix next.
I did the suncoast methood and I have no complaints. I live in Ft Lauderdale area, so there is alot of traffic for the most part of every day.Light on the throttle unless I am letting everyone behind me know I have Cummins. I would be driving along and lock/unlock/lock/unlock.......after the suncoast methood........when it locks....it locks...light or heavy throttle.
As I said in my other post, "applying dielectric grease to the alternator harness plug".......Maybe when you spin off your oil filter, you are moving that plug around on the alternator....its very close. Just a thought !oddly enough i began having a lock up problem between 40 and 50 mph right after the first oil change i did on my newish truck, the problem went away after a while and tonight i did my secound oil change ( i have owned the truck for about 2 months ) and the problem has started again. i went to school for diesel and i am getting pretty mad because oil changes and torque converters should not effect eachother, please tell me what the hell is wrong with this thing and why the problem only comes back when i do an oil change. coincedence??
Well my problem was a crappy rebuild. Only lasted 20K miles. Plus the tranny shop that did it,is out of business so there went my warrenty. $3000 later a she works great.
im havin the same problems too with the constant lock-unlock from about 40- 50 mph plus i have to shift manually cuz it wont take off in drive unless i floor it and it still dont shift down like it should just dumps smoke and dont go nowere? any thoughts ?
1 - 20 of 905 Posts
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