here is about the best option for you.

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/ar...ins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/crankcase-vent-mod-r463/

 

Yep just vent to atmosphere, much easier and I rarely see oil from it.

 

Agreed..... It doesn't have to be complicated.

Maybe I'm just lucky, but so far I've not noticed any issue with oil blow by or leakage on my truck. I checked the vent tube bottle when I bought the truck and it was empty. I also did not see any of the mess under the truck or on the radiator as I've seen people mention. Since then I've only put about a 1k miles on the truck but there still is no mess or lots of oil in the catch can. The truck also does not have any blow by. Is that normal? I wonder given all the issues I hear other people having. The truck has 248k miles on it.

Its not the oil you see but rather the oil vapors you dont see. Under the factory configuration the oil catch bottle vents in an area where the radiator fan pulls the air back around and sucks it up between the intercooler and radiator. Then over time the thinly coated radiator fins start to collect dust and debris and eventually prevents air flow in the outer portion of the radiator. Eventually this will affect overall engine cooling and AC coldness performance.

About a decade ago I added around another 6-7 feet of 3/4" oil grade heater hose to the engine timing cover vent line. Attached it via straps and zip ties to various locations along side the engine and frame, routing it back to the fuel tank. There it exits in a downward fashion. In this video I made you can see what I mean.

:thumbsup:

 

What I noticed is once I added another vent to the valve cover, no more oil from the timing case vent. I run both my vents to a catch canister made of abs and full of steelwool, steelwool is still clean however and no oil at the bottom

 

Where did you add another vent at?


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

 

Vented up and over the engine....no mess since.

 

There is places you don't want to put it due to oil kicking off the rockers, but I added mine on the rear side.

Don't ask me way my stock boots haven't blown out:confused013:

 

Maybe I'm just lucky, but so far I've not noticed any issue with oil blow by or leakage on my truck. I checked the vent tube bottle when I bought the truck and it was empty. I also did not see any of the mess under the truck or on the radiator as I've seen people mention. Since then I've only put about a 1k miles on the truck but there still is no mess or lots of oil in the catch can. The truck also does not have any blow by. Is that normal? I wonder given all the issues I hear other people having. The truck has 248k miles on it.

 

Depends on the settup too, more drive pressure and boost is going to mean more blowby. but not to say my motor is all that good. all I did when i bought it is look to see if the oil cap danced upside down, but it's not uncommon for a high mileage truck to have enough to cause a mess from the stock venting system.

 

I guess I'm one of the lucky ones who have the old-style vent that is not on the timing case cover, it's under the intake manifold. I don't know if it's possible to convert the newer trucks to use this style of breather vent or not, but it doesn't spill even on 20% grades and doesn't require the kitchen sink plumbing mod.

 

You have the 12v tappet cover...it has the breather, and yes it can swapped on to the 24v.

 

I have the fleetguard system on my truck, not happy with it, it doesn't flow as much air, so I build up pressure when under boost and oil is pushed up my dipstick tube, not a lot but still makes a little mess. I'm thinking of adding a 12 valve tappet cover to add air flow. Engine doesn't have any blow by. If I can't find a reasonably priced 12 valve cover, I think I might go with the one on the valve cover. I'm also thinking of pulling the fleetguard one off and drilling the vent holes out just a little bigger to flow more air, but this might be a mistake as it may not work after that.

 

Fleetguard system is a joke in my mind you now given two places for the crankcase pressure to flow back up (through the oil drain). This system never worked right.

 

In my opinion, it works well for a stock truck, but for a built truck making substantial boost numbers, not so well. I get very little oil out of it, most of mine comes up the dip stick tube. To much crank case pressure. I may just remove it and cover the timing cover and put the 12 valve tappet cover on the truck and be done with it. I got the Fleetguard for $75 from another member who never used it, so I thought I would give it a try.

 

My 02 has 350000 km so roughly 200k miles. The oil fill cap wont dance at all. The crank case is vented out near the t case via a hose. Cant recall if it actually goes up and over the motor or not but it will drip on the ground after coming home. In the winter when cold its like a brown sludge that comes out after the ice gets in the tube.

 

Any kind of capture can is a bad idea. Best to let it just vent and drip. I've seen a lot of capture cans ideas and all require draining, cleaning, etc.

 

Problem for me I can spill over nearly 1 gallon out the vent being offroad doing firewood with that idea. Hence why I got up and over the back because now when I travel downhill steep no problem the oil can pump up hill in the vent pipe. I've actually spilled over 2 quarts on the highway from a panic stop for a deer and it scattered oil all over the hood and engine from that adventure.

 

I used about 6 feet of 3/4" fuel/vapor hose and routed it over the engine and it exits just past my transmission crossmember. No mess or oil on anything. The only thing is that I can have a slight vapor cloud at idle at a stop light if there is no wind, but that's no big deal.

 

Be careful of using hose. I know some people are using reforced hose which is find as long as it designed for oil. Standard heater hose is not good once it kinks shut it WILL blow the tappet cover gasket or crank seals. I've 3 people report the opps of using just hose and one did on the way to Alaska and left him stranded with a blown tappet gasket. Highly suggest against using hose and use some sort of solid pipe. Less chances of kinking or plugging.

 

I had one I made from PVC (actually from your website). I ran that for awhile, but I wanted to extend it from just behind the motor to further back to clean things up.

The hose I am using now is reinforced and is pretty resistant to crushing. I have it ziptied in down the length of the hose to prevent it from kinking or moving and I haven't had any issues.