Hmm for me everything was stock and probably even the fluid at 170k, but I kept it original and didn't add any filters just because I wouldnt want to risk flow restriction. I did flush the system twice and it solved my whining for the most part. Albeit I drove it for a bit before the 2nd flush a month later but I also made sure the cap vented and it didn't make a pop sound like before and this helped relieve any pressure in the system. Mines 2wd with a rack and pinion setup so it's possible different from yours.

 

The majority of parts store pumps are junk.
Should get new from dealer or even used from junk yard are better .

 

Like most, I am showing signs 🚯🤔 of a PS leak, thought it was transmission cooler lines.

Seems to be a common thing.
Any updates or upgrades for this common problem?
What year and engine combo could supply a good used part?

 

You can read on here about using 2013+ which is seems like a better pump, more flow , thats probably going to be my route, used from wreck , when my OEM finally goes.
Search threads | Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum (cumminsforum.com)

 

Cardon, last I heard they're new and "rebuilt" are made in India. Now that's high quality, NOT.

Most PS pump squeal is really PS pump belt squeal from slipping glaze or too loose. These are extremely high load in Ram diesel, requires quality brand name belt, not some AutoFake.
either:
Gates® FleetRunner® Heavy Duty Micro-V® belts are engineered to save your fleet money and lost service time. Patented EPDM construction with distinct green overcord built specifically for more durability, superior flexibility, stability, and longer life on heavy-duty drives. Haul more. Drive longer.

Or high end Continental, not their junke OEM type.

Pulleys must be totally spotless clean of any oil or silicone spray, use brake cleaner.
NO oil leaks from front seal to sling on belts and pulleys.
NO leaking water pump to coat belts/pulleys with ethelene gycol

Pulleys must be perfectly straight on belt and all pulleys must line up with straightedge. Lots of bent mounts.

 

i went with a gates belt after my water pump went out. I wish my problem was a belt or pulley but it’s clearly the pump whining

The majority of parts store pumps are junk.
Should get new from dealer or even used from junk yard are better .

I know this seems to be a common theme where guys say these pumps are garbage i just have a hard time believing that 2 brand new pumps would be the issue. Not saying it’s not possible but they both whined the second they were installed and the truck was on the payment putting a load on the wheel.

 

i put in a new cardone zf pump 2 years back or so... whined from the getgo. after about a week it was quiet as expected and continues to be quiet now an estimated 35-45k later. during that time i also got to work on a ford focus steering that had noise in it, found the screen in the resi was plugged. back flushed the resi and the noise was gone.

check the resi for a screen and clean it if it has one, ditch the filter and see where it sits after.

 

i put in a new cardone zf pump 2 years back or so... whined from the getgo. after about a week it was quiet as expected and continues to be quiet now an estimated 35-45k later. during that time i also got to work on a ford focus steering that had noise in it, found the screen in the resi was plugged. back flushed the resi and the noise was gone.

check the resi for a screen and clean it if it has one, ditch the filter and see where it sits after.

I’ll see what i can figure out tomorrow with it, i actually have the stock pump that came with the whole assembly that i ripped off the junker to upgrade to the ZF setup and i never used it becuase at the time i figured it would be cheap insurance to just get a new pump. If that doesn’t work i guess I’ll have to source some hose so i can undo the filter setup

 

Anyone else attempting to bleed this system via the use of a vacuum pump experience the same thing as me, just like last time it just seems like a constant steam of micro air bubbles in the tube but my fluid doesn’t ever get all aerated inside the reservoir after I run it and turn the wheels back-and-forth 20 cycles.

Also I remember reading in some old threads a while back and I went back through and reread some of them about the reservoir pressurizing because the cap wouldn’t vent. I’ve been noticing over the last week after I run the truck and cycle it I get the same exact thing where when I go to remove the cap it’s like a little bit of pressure is built up and you get that pop but my cap is completely different from the ones that guys were swapping out I don’t actually have the dipstick since my reservoir came off of a 08 truck. I’m wondering if that’s causing me the issues.

 

Well to add to the drama after about 3x cycles of vacuum bleeding it finally got to a point where it wasn’t drawing any bubbles hardly at all through the line. Fired it up and turned the wheels back and forth on the ground and the noise started to get quieter as i went thought maybe I’m finally getting there. Decided a drive would be the best next step but the other day i had to swap out the driver side rear break line because it was leaking at the banjo bolt so i thought let’s bleed it before taking her out. Well it won’t bleed. Just keeps sucking air, been hand pumping it for close to an hour and at first i was getting a little fluid with the air bubbles but now nothing just air.

 

Guess I’m going to have to push it to another day, no one home to pump these damn breaks and hand pumping it isn’t doing $hit

 

I bleed brakes by myself all the time. All I ever do is use a clear 1ltr bottle. Drill a hole through the top cap. Stick a 3’ long vacuum hose through the cap extending to the bottom of the bottle. Add 200ml of new DOT brake fluid & install cap.
Empty the master cylinder & top off with new brake fluid. Crack then snug all brake bleed screws. Start with closest caliper to master cylinder (DS) . Open that bleedd screw & slowly pump until returning fluid is clear with no air bubbles. Carefull not to empty MS letting air back into the system. Tighten bleed screw & move to the next closest. Should finish on PR. Takes about 2ltr to flush entire brake system.
If not careful & rum MS dry, you will induce air into the ABS system & need a scan tool to cycle ABS to purge air from it.

 

I bleed brakes by myself all the time. All I ever do is use a clear 1ltr bottle. Drill a hole through the top cap. Stick a 3’ long vacuum hose through the cap extending to the bottom of the bottle. Add 200ml of new DOT brake fluid & install cap.
Empty the master cylinder & top off with new brake fluid. Crack then snug all brake bleed screws. Install vacuum hose to bleed screw. Start with closest caliper to master cylinder (DS) . Open that bleed screw & slowly pump until returning fluid is clear with no air bubbles. Don’t need to run engine while doing brake flush. Carefull not to empty MS letting air back into the system. Tighten bleed screw & move to the next closest. Should finish on PR. Takes about 2ltr to flush entire brake system.
If not careful & rum MS dry, you will induce air into the ABS system & need a scan tool to cycle ABS to purge air from it.

 

So most guys work smarter and easier, some guys have to do it the hard way. Sure hate that brake fluid spraying in the eyes cracking the bleeder when it's pumped hard by the helper in the cab. Ends the work day.

 

Got the brakes bled and took the ol gal for a spin and unfortunately what i saw in the garage wasn’t the case on the street. Pumps quieter then the old one but still Squealing quite a bit.

I set a new personal best record of just over an hour of pulling out the pump from the wheel well once again and swapping in the original factory one zf pump that came off the junk yard truck. Managed you get it all buttoned up and the reservoir is topped off. Tomorrow I’ll start over again with the bleeding and see where i stand.

 

Bleed pump with tires off the ground. Truck shut off. Turn all the way left & right multiple times & check your fluid level in reservoir.
Once level stabilizes, start truck & turn back & forth the same way, this time pumping brakes also. This way always worked for me in the past

 

Surprising each and every time I’ve went through this process i haven’t once experienced any fluid fluctuation like most people describe on here, the only way the fluid level has changed is after i applied a vacuum.

 

Well it’s official she hates me. Went though a long drawn out bleed process, probably spent near an hour under vacuum and with the factory pump on its squealing even louder then With the cardon pump.

 

Looking back when I replaced the box and found the contamination in the system i wish i would have just left it alone. This “upgrade” has been nothing but headaches and my factory setup never made any noise or gave me any trouble.

 

I’ve gotten so good at pulling the pump out i think I’ll just swap that cardon back in and call it good. It produced the least noise

 

Have you looked a the hydro-boost? I'm still running my original one so I have no experience with it, gut tells me you have a restriction somewhere based on previous experiences...

 

So when i initially swapped out all the parts with the new style pump a couple of people pointed me towards that direction so i swapped it out. Didn’t help anything

 

Whats the status of the steering box? old|new|used but new to you?

 

Well that’s what started it all, steering got really sloppy so i added the synergy HD steering gear upfront, but it still had a lot of slop in the steering so i swapped out the stock box for a bluetop and added the steering brace. It was during the box swap that i noticed the metal shavings in the fluids so that prompted me to changing out the power steering because i was worried all that junk was going to take it out. Who knows maybe i got a bad box from the get go, it’s definitely happen to others on here.

 

Praise the lord i finally got somewhere with it. Jacked up the front end, added 20-24in of vacuum and then turned the wheels back and forth 20 to 25 times and pumped the **** outta the breaks. After 2 revolutions of this i dropped her down and turned the wheels and it was way quieter, did it another 2 times and now it’s almost non existent. God this ol beyoch fought me tooth and nail on this power steering but it’s finally in a decent place. Thanks to all who gave advise. Guess unless i buy another Cummins in the future i won’t be talking to much with most of ya. Thanks to all that have helped me over the years of great ownership it’s been a good 17 years, now it’s time she goes be a good gal for someone else.

 

Without hearing the sound it’s hard to say, but if this happened after you changed out the box. Common sense would say it’s probably the box that’s the issue causing the pump to go over relief and that’s probably the sound you’re hearing