I'de add Gauges first then go from there .

 

I already have isspro egt, boost, and tach.

 

I'm kinda on the same path as you. Was told I needed bigger injectors and bought some good used PODS which are probably great injectors for a 500 horse truck but I tow a lot and these are WAY too big. I'm looking at the DAP 5X11 SAC's or the same from Hungry Diesel. These are approximately 49% bigger than stock IC injectors. If your patient I will be the guinea pig.

 

5x12 would be good for towing.... but, I wouldn't go any larger.

5x12 injectors are 25 larger (flow wise) than factory i/c injectors....5x11 injectors are about 15% larger.

 

What gears do you have. I'm thinking you may get a little hot with 5X.012 towing a cattle trailer. Around the farm people tend to drive slower and lug the engine. Out on the open road you should be fine.

 

I can be a little patient lol. Please keep me informed on how they work for you. I was kinda worried bc my egts can get a little high (1200-1300) as it is on hills and I dont wanna get down to a crawl on the interstate to keep them down. And thanks for the advice RC. I'm somewhat knew to the modified diesel world. Do tou think my turbo will handle those injectors alright?

 

92 Getrag will have either 3.54 or 4.10 (if special ordered).

I've never shown an issue with putting around with high load and large injectors... because there isn't much load when compared to going down the road and then pulling a hill.

 

Yeah I've got 3.54s.

 

I have also considered using water/meth to make sure it stays cool. And I plan on having my head port and polished soon too.

 

I don't see how your EGT's are so high with an HX40? is the exhaust turbo housing causing too much restriction? Bigger injectors will probably make it hotter towing. Maybe you should address that issue first. Also my calculations show:
Stock IC injectors 6X.009" = .000381si (square inches)
5X.010" = .000471si (24% bigger than stock)
5X.0105" = .000519si (36% bigger)
5X.011" = .000570si (49% bigger)
Plus 5 holes with the exact same area as 6 holes will flow more (albeit not a lot) simply due to the laws of fluid dynamics (less hole wall friction).

fluid honed nozzles will flow better because the hole walls are smoother (microscopically speaking) but the turbulence caused by an unhoned wall will improve atomization giving you more torque. Same goes with porting your heads. If you want to gain top end HP but loose torque pretty much everywhere except above 3000 RPM then portings the way to go. Not good for a tow rig though.

 

Your math is wrong.... .0003925 is a 5x10, or 3% larger than stock.

(.010/2=.005; .005*.005=.000025, .000025*3.14=.0000785, .0000785*5=.0003925)


Super 40 have a tendency to run hot because of how large the turbine housing is... they are fairly lazy.

 

Hey RC, Buddy, These motors have 6 cylinders not 5

 

Yeah I can see how its lazy. It doesnt like to lit up but when it does it pulls pretty hard but the egts have already climbed by then. Should I look into another turbo? If so what?

 

I wouldn't worry about it until you actually NEED it. But, you'd notice a better tow rig with a different turbo.

 

Dude... you times it by 5 because there are 5 holes.

And that injection pump shop saying you lose torque by extrude honing is merely going off what makes sense in their head....

Dyno sheets show the EXACT opposite. An extrude honed nozzle, because of how it changes the cloud point of injection actually makes more power per amount of air.... on dyno sheets it becomes obvious because they have a higher peak TORQUE in the mid rpm range.

 

LOL! OOPS sorry. I need to cut back on the vodka and weed!

 

All good. LOL

 

So yall think its a no go on the port and polish? I definitely dont wanna sacrifice my low end by any means.

 

A mild port and polish will not hurt your low end.... If it is there and convenient, by all means do it. It'll give similar results (in a way) to running a cam. Doing a port on your exhaust side will spool your turbo quite a bit earlier.

 

Thats all I was gonna do is just a mild p&p. Ive got a guy that wont charge me much and im probably gonna go ahead and do 60# valve springs and head studs while the head is off. Possibly get an exhaust break in the future.

 

Might as well.. peace of mind for the future. A1 studs get my vote, and we still have some in stock.

 

A1 over arp? I have always heard the oposite.

 

ARP requires milling the rocker stations.... A1 only requires grinding the webbing out of the inside of the valve covers.

A1 studs have more block to stud contact than ARP...

Other than that they are probably (for the real life sake of argument) the same strength.

Only "downside" to A1 studs is you are SUPPOSED to bottom tap the block. But, I've heard of guys not doing it and still getting down far enough. But, since you'll have the head off anyways... not a big deal.

 

Bottom tapping the head bolt holes are a cinch even with the heads on if you use a shop vac and a can of compressed air used for cleaning keyboards. (it's okay... vodka's wearing off)

 

What's difficult is finding a tap long enough. I've never actually run across one to date.

 

So what would you do just keep tightening the stud and let it tap the block until they're deep enough or what?