It seems like I turned mine from the front of the crank

 

I needed to do the same in order to install new springs and rockers and then a valve lash.
I purchased and installed this.

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It made turning the engine a breeze. Just throw a 1/2" drive rachet on it and go to town.
I found it a lot more user-friendly than using a barring tool at the flywheel housing.
And the beauty is, you just leave it on the damper for the next time.

 

How many less threads do you get with that barring tool bolted on there? Did you resuse fasteners or go with ARP? It does look pretty slick though even for amazonium.

theres also a baring tool that will fit into passenger side bell housing, but thats a pain. You can use one of the 1 crank bolts, mines always turned the engine.

 

No less threads because it's indented (not sure that's the right word), You take the factory piece off and replace with this.
I just used the factory bolts with some blue loctite just to be on the safe side.
Yeah, I tried the type of barring tool that you use at the bell housing. You're right, it's a PITB. One rachet pull and it seems the engine moves barely an inch. I also found that it slips a lot.
With this one, I estimate that you can go from TDC1 to TDC2 with about 20 1/4 pulls of the rachet.

 

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I used one of these barring tools, extensions, ratchet from the top. Made it easy.

 

It is easy just remove the dust cover on the TC and pry the ring gear with a big screw driver or small pry bar. Turns easy.

 

Use a short 15mm socket with a 1/2" ratchet on the 4 harmonic balancer bolts. Just because they aren't centered doesn't mean the engine won't turn.