Pic 2............

 

When I rebuilt my trans it had a couple of these issues also.

Press the shaft out, you may be able to polish it enough to reuse, if there is any wear, or rough spot, replace the shaft.

I used a Suncoast od piston retainer, had to put the 2 plugs it in, they came with it. Also drilled a .040 hole in the rear case for sprag lube. The instructions for this were also with the piston retainer.

My early 03 with 47re had the "gas" od clutch setup also, I simply rebuilt it as it was. It had no wear to speak of, so I had no concern about this.

 

Ill look into suncoast, whats the purpose of pluging the holes? Every clucth and steel plate is eather burnt or warped thru the entire trans.

Im trying to figure out what caused the scoring? Im thinking when the thrust bearing broke someof the peices travled thru the park rod hole and made there way into the shaft? And got inbetween the low/reverse drum which caused the scoring?

 

If the od piston retainer were used on a 47rh it would need those holes open for the hydrolic control, vs 47/48re with electronic control of the od.

 

You are going to need the Sonnax 22754N-01K piston retainer. It will also have you drill for sprag lube and come with the governor plugs. YOU MUST INSTALL THEM!! The plugs block off governor feed that used to come from the hydraulic governor in the 47RH but now since yours is electronically controlled, it blocks the gov pressure from dumping into the OD housing. If all of your clutches show warping and burning, you lost line pressure. Either from a bad pump, valve body malfunction or forward clutch leakage. Judging by the stuck intermediate shaft, your cooler is almost completely plugged as well. Cooler flow returning from the cooler first lubricates that shaft, at that point, so if thats screwed, its a sign you lost cooler flow along with the line pressure to fry everything. The intermediate shaft has a bunch of lubrication channels all throughout it, most likely, they are now plugged up. You are going to have to clear them out or buy another shaft depending on its condition.
What did you set line pressure at when you put your shift kit in?

 

Whats the best way to clean the cooler? Remove it and run it thru the parts washer a few times?

I still was able to drive the truck in foward. I had to put in 2- that allowed me to have 1st n 2nd to limp the truck home, eather way i wanted to flush out the cooler anyways. Which one exactly is it, theres one that is on the block that has tranny lines and coolant lined going to it but it lookd like another set of tranny lines come out of it n run foward to the rad area? It was dark so i didnt look at it to hard. You going to laugh but i dont think i ever set the line preasure, atleast not with a gauge. There was some spring set up for line preasure that i put in then it started with the harsh clunk when downshifting so i swapes the spring to the other in the trans go and it still did it.

 

Any one kno why my o/d has the gas set up reather then the diesel with more clutches and different backing plate??

 

If your OD had 5 clutches with a flat reaction plate at the bottom, that is nothing unusual. Not all diesel 48re's came with 6 and a stepped plate. As far as the spring setup from transgo, it depends on the kit. In the latest version, there is 2 springs that go on the pressure regulator and you want to start with the adjuster completely flat against the clip. Harsh shifts and clunking into D or R from park usually means the pressure is too high and just needed adjusting down a couple turns.
Both coolers will need flushed and the best way is with what your s called a "hot flush". It flushes the system with heated fluid to ensure the thernostatic bypasses are opened to allow the fluid to flush the whole cooler, not just the bypass circuit. If you have access to a parts washer, remove the front cooler, pop the thermostat out of the top drivers side corner of the cooler thats behind the small inside snap ring and flush it with solvent. Then blow through one of the fittings on the heat exchanger/cooler thats on the side of the block with a clean white rag on the other fitting to catch what blows out of it. Check for metal and other contamination on the rag to help you make your decision on whether or not to pull it for flushing. Just my opinion, but if that gets removed, I dont reinstall them, I replace them with an aftermarket cooler or bypass them completely.

 

Ive god a new valvebody on order that is suposed to be dynoed and adjusted already. And yes i was getting harsh shifts from drive to reverse from park.

As for the OD clutches, am i able to order the steped plate so i can run more clutches that will come in the rebuild kit? Or do i have to stay with the way it is now?

The cooler by the rad has the thermostat? And the one on the block is the heat exchanger?
Are the thermostats somthing that need to be changed?

 

Anyone have a theory y the thrust bearing for my OD got destroyed?? And where to get another one?

 

Tell me where this snap ring goes... When i built the trans last time when it was all said and dont i had a waved snapring left over, i searched the atsg book but couldnt find its location. When i tore the tran dons this week i could have sworn that it needed to go in the direct drum because of all the play i saw between the plate and snapring. Im hunting thru the book again and it dosent show it anywhere i tried fitting it into the direct drum but it just dosent lay into the groov for the snapring right. Only thing i can think of is that last rebuild i ordered a used replacement direct drum becaused mine was scored from the band, maby they sent it with this snap ring. It measures 7-1/4 inches in diameter outside to outside edge.

 

The snap ring either goes on the direct drum or between the flat snap ring and reaction plate in the overdrive. I could measure one I have laying around but its a little late for that.

As for your other questions, the heat exchanger is on the block, and the thermostatic plunger on the side of the cooler does not need to be serviced regularly. It is however a VERY good idea to remove it, clean it and its bore during a rebuild. Very common place to get sediment build up which will cause high fluid temps.

I am guessing the bearing got destroyed due to lack of lubrication like the rest of the trans.
You can buy a stepped plate and run 6 clutches if you want, pretty typical. You need to ensure you set your OD piston to clutch clearance. There are a couple different ways to do that but it needs done.

 

It dosent fit in the o/d unit. And all the snap ringsfor that unit are there. It has to be for the direct drum, if u could measure ine that would be great. The raybestos clutch kit i ordered comes with the steped reaction plate for the OD. I got the rebuild kit in last night and it was in there.

 

Ovedrive wavy snap ring OD 6 1/8"
Direct drum wavy snap ring OD 7 1/8"

 

ok then its deff for the direct drum but I have one in it... the waves on the one in the pic are much bigger then the one currently in the drum.

this is an emergency, revmax called me and told me my valve body core is useless because of 2 holed drilled in it. I don't kno what to do I don't have the funds to pay the core charge, ill attacht the pics. is it fixable?1

 

..............they r saying that the hole is on the bore land

 

Those are the holes that are drilled to increase the "firmness" of the converter lockup.

These are typically added when installing a transgo shift kit, with a single disc converter.

To answer your question as to weather it's fixable, well, yes, kind of.

I drilled these holes in my valve body when I was using a single disc. Then when I put in a triple I simply drilled and tapped them, and put in set screws with lock-tite.

As far as being a "good core" for revmax, I guess not. Iv read that installing a transgo will make your valve body unsuitable as a core.

 

Hhmmmmm. Im wondering if i can do that same thing to mine. Wonder is i could just tell them to take the stuff outa the new one n put it in mine.

Maby ill just pay the core n try n sell my old one, thers nothing wrong with it just wanted yo replace everything. The valvebody i ordered is suposed to match the revmax TC im running

 

Wow, I have got to say thats pretty pathetic. I have heard a lot of good things about Revmax but this is pretty stupid. Maybe the tech working it isnt familiar with that channel of the switch valve. Any seasoned builder would Tig those closed and polish the bore IF it was causing any score marks on the switch valve.
I personally dont like drilling those holes to begin with since it is easier to mod the seperator plate with the same end result. Did they say they wouldnt build you valve body due to that? If so have them send it back and ship it to firepunk or somewhere similar of your choosing. It is still a good core, that land holds minimal pressure only when the converter isnt locked up.

 

Stupid.. Ok, you claim you would TIG the holes shut... Trying to tig those large holes shut is nearly impossible and not warp the valve bore.... Trust us, we have tried time and time again as we lose 50% of our 48re cores due to improper shift kit installs...

Speaking of holes, not only were the holes drilled out HUGE, the person who drilled them also hit the bore where the valve strokes. So, would you put your reputation on the line to simply try to RIG up someone elses mistake??? That isn't the type of product we send out....:thumbsup:

 

They wernt building mine to suit they r sending me one already built this mine was just a core return. I spoke to goerend b4 revmax and even they said they can work with my valvebody with the holes from transgo. Im paying $680 for the revmax valvebody with all new electronics, i thought that was a good price but not if i gota pay a core. Now im pissed im 2k into it with them now they want another $350. This valvebody i ordered is suposed to be specific for the stage 3.5 converter with 300rpm stall i got. But im guessing any shop can build a valve body to suit.

 

Make sure you tell Darla or Denise that your casting is not only drilled but that the bore where the switch valve rides is also drilled into... I think you might just get a different answer if they knew?? :S:

 

#5-40 set screws would be just right, if the holes are .106

 

Thanks! Im still not sure if im going to go this rout but if i do ill go with this.

 

At the risk of sounding ignorant, what wrong with installing your new triple disc and running it with your Transgo-equipped valve body? Did I miss something or you just wanted to replace it all as a warm, fuzzy feeling?

Fuelie, do you recall the p/n and cost of that casting/piece of the vb that he might could get from Chrysler or do they just sell the whole thing?

 

Im running a single not a tripple. And because i dont kno how to set the preasures on the valvebody, all i did was install the transgo bolt in the vb and drove. I hated the way it shifted and how hard it down shifted at 20mph i figured a new valve body was the right choice unless im wrong

 

Go here. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/1721450-transmission-help-2.html

Then scroll down to Fuelie's post on pressures. You will do Park, neutral, drive, OD shift, and TCC lockup. Light throttle and full throttle. It's easy, especially with a buddy.

Fuelie can read your palm afterwards. I mean, interpret your pressures. arty018:

 

Here's your gauge 2 1 2" Liquid Filled Pressure Gauge 1 4" Bottom Connection 0 200psi | eBay

And here's your tubing stuff 1/8" copper gauge tubing | eBay

 

Little update here......

Started puting the clutch pack togather. TC and VB wont be in till end of week hopefully. I soaked the clutch plates for 30 mins in atf+4 like the atsg said, it shouldnt be an issue for the clutchs to be installed and sit for the nxt few days while i wait for the tc n vb to come in right?

I ordered the new OD piston retainer. I thought i ordered the sonnax one but turns out its the oem replacement. The oem dosent have the grove for the oring like the sonnax does. Should i return it and get the sonnax or will i be ok. And if i do stick with the oem shuld i still drill the hole in the case To help lube the lower roller clutch like it says on the sonnax website?

 

I doubt you own a 1-2" inside micrometer to measure the case with since it got hot. Since you have the time, order the Sonnax version. It doubles the volume of fluid fed to the intermediate that lubes the planets, something your transmission obviously needs. I don't know where you live, but a Transtar dealer usually stocks them and you would be able to pick one up locally. Check their website for a dealer at Transtar1.com
No, it wont hurt the clutches to leave them, just keep them covered and clean.

Due to your lack of lube failure, pay VERY close attention to your planetarys during your inspection of parts. They dont do well when they don't get the fluid they need. The ATSG should have info on that.

 

Ok ill see about returing the retainer n get the sonnax.

I took the planets completly apart cleaned them real well and pit it back togather as per atsg. And with a feeler gauge i checked all clearences that are needed and it all came back in spec.

 

I finnally got the trans cooler apart and removed the t stat. I flushed it out real good with the parts wash and blew it out with air. The parts wash uses mineral sperits. Im not 100% i got every drop outa the cooler. If there is a lil left iver and i hook it up will it damage the trans?