When the engine gets warm it loses compression. You can tell when you fire it up cold and shut it off in 30 seconds vs. running it for 20 min and turning it off the shake is more brutal when cold. If it fires up good warm then I wouldn't worry about it. White smoke and miss seems like there is still an injector issue. Do the blowby test (put your oil cap upside down over the hole) and if it blows off then yes there is a compression issue.

 

Well it def has some blow by it blows the oil cap right off and puffs up and down if I hold it over it. Guess my worst nightmare has come true
Now I can only pray that its a couple valve seals rather than the short block.


You guys know of a fast way to check the valve seals?

 

Well it turns out Im pretty sure i solved my white smoke hard idle problem. Im pretty sure I blew a head gasket. The only thing that causes the hard idle is long periods of sitting. if i let it sit 2 hours and get fully cold its 20 degrees here right now it fires up with no problems. If i let it sit for say 12+ hours and start it up it has the rough idle and white smoke. All it takes to clear this up is one good romp up my street and the smoke is gone and idles normal.
This is leading me to believe that I am leaking Coolant into my cylinder slowly and filling it causing the miss upon start up. Also I had one injector that came out with a clean tip and no carbon build up. all the others were caked leading me more so to believe now that that cylinder was getting coolant and steaming the injector clean?

As for the blow by I am borrowing a boroscope to take a look at the cylinder wall and piston heads and see if i can see anything obvious.

On another note who sells a good rebuild set for this I don't want to put garbage in it.

 

Sounds like it may just be a blown headgasket. I'd pull the head since you have to anyway and inspect everything that was. Its sometimes hard to tell with a borescope.

 

Yea Im going to Pressure test the Coolant system and see if holds pressure or not.
then rip it all down so i can do a compression test and take a preliminary look inside But regardless ill have a clear look since i'm almost positive the gasket has failed.
Im still going to replace the FCA but i have little hopes of that doing anything.

Im just really hoping the cylinder isnt all scored to hell.
That will require me welding up an engine stand big enough and probably renting a mini excavator to pull it out lol. Some how I dont think my engine hoist will even budge it.

 

I would stud it while you're in it

 

This is the reason Im really kicking myself in the nuts more. I just did ARP studs when i replaced the injectors... Now i gotta take them all back out. by the way does anyone know if you can ReUse ARP studs?

Wasn't the most thought out repair I've ever done but since the 2 injectors ohmd way out of range I went big and bought brand new. Now the wallet is really going to be hurting if I have to tear into the bottom end as well.

I know the chances are slim but i really hope i just burned up a ring without scoring the wall dont think its really possible though

 

Yes you can reuse the studs.

I wonder if doing the studs one by one damaged the gasket...

 

Im sure it is possible But if you read my first post the rough idle and smoke started before the studs after long periods of sitting 12+ hours so i think it was popped before.
My fault either way Running smarty on setting 9 with wastgate off =50 psi= blown head gasket.

No biggie at this point the heads not bad to do with an egine hoist.
Its just the blow by thats got me real worried now as that can get really expensive fast. if it gotta get it machined then its a full rebuild And i always want to upgrade so +$$$

 

Just my thought s on this... If you have a stock frame turbo, leave the waste gate on, i turned my WG off and saw 70psi Drive psi at 40psi boost!

 

Take a old clear soda bottle and pull the hose off the surge tank for the rad. Fill said water bottle with water and place hose in water. Start truck and watch for bubbles. If the head gasket is bad enough to dump coolant in a cylinder like you think then compression gases will go into the cooling system when running. Now don't get worried if you see one or two bubbles. But if they become consistent then your gasket is done. Also coolant eats bearings fairly quick. So hopefully if your theory is right then there isn't a bunch floating around in your oil.

 

Yea i dont seem to have the best of luck But Im praying the cylinder with the bad gasket it different from the one with blow by so at least maybe the coolant is being burned up rather than flowing into the oil. I doubt ill have that luck though.
Ill try the bottle test and see whats going on with that if anything.

Also I forgot to mention that even after a night of sitting the radiator still has pressure in it. is this normal? i mean it pushes out a cup or so of coolant when you take the cap off. I never thought this was typical and it didn't do it in the past.

 

Bump
Bringing back the thred
What did you find out? I am having the same issue.