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If the fan really engages I bet you can hear it over your loud exhaust... you'll be looking up to see if a jet plane is going to land on you. When was the last time the coolant was flushed (and I'm talking about using a flush) and same for the trans? No, I'm not talking just draining some fluid and refill/topping off...
Never flush a trans if its not done regularly thats the best way to have your trans blow up shortly after the flush
 
That's what I've heard as well.
 
Never flush a trans if its not done regularly thats the best way to have your trans blow up shortly after the flush
yea, I've heard that also, but always from everyone that has 'heard that'. If you flush it very, very well it would never be an issue, even if it's never done before. If you believe what you say, never take a shower or bath... you'll just get dirty again... I've never met anyone that actually did this and it happen to. And if I did, I bet that would be the once in a million chance it would happen... and would have happen anyway with all that crud in the system. *yea, I worked at a trans shop many, many years ago.
 
yea, I've heard that also, but always from everyone that has 'heard that'. If you flush it very, very well it would never be an issue, even if it's never done before. If you believe what you say, never take a shower or bath... you'll just get dirty again... I've never met anyone that actually did this and it happen to. And if I did, I bet that would be the once in a million chance it would happen... and would have happen anyway with all that crud in the system. *yea, I worked at a trans shop many, many years ago.
I have seen it happen even with a hot flush tran machine it is possible. I did a hot flush on a truck with 250k km the owner just bought i warned him he said do it i ran the hot flush machine for 2 cycles a week later the truck came back on a flat deck the guy had to pay us to put a trans in… there is a reason people have heard the same story, because it does happen not to everyone but it can happen the same reason you never reuse a trans cooler if the tranny blew even if flushed it can still be dirty and can ruin a new transmission
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Your thinking on the coolant thermostat is correct but the water pump is always running(belt driven) and there is a bypass in the head for when the thermostat is closed to keep coolant flow unrestricted until it opens. The fan is operated by the clutch to limit fan speed when not needed but engages around 220 and will be a very loud roar like has been said sounds like a garbage truck as the fan clutch engages so the fan rpm will match the engine rpms. It will be very noticeable even with a 5" straight pipe will nearly take it over for hearing in the cab.
Hmm, well, I dont think Im hearing a jet plane or super garbage truck type roar or an increase in fan speed roar. The radiator fan is loud, but never super loud. However, most of the time I turn on the AC, theres a 1 second grind or "clunk". I assume its the AC clutch being unhappy or AC compressor, but it continues to cool perfectly while truck is in motion. I wonder if the clunk could be the radiator fan clutch trying to engage to speed up the fan? Maybe not. Anyway, sounds like I should just take it to Dodge and have them look. I have little time to fix stuff anymore and moved to a new place where i have no "truck guy" to fix stuff.


If the fan really engages I bet you can hear it over your loud exhaust... you'll be looking up to see if a jet plane is going to land on you. When was the last time the coolant was flushed (and I'm talking about using a flush) and same for the trans? No, I'm not talking just draining some fluid and refill/topping off...
Hmm, well, I dont think Im hearing a jet plane type roar. The radiator fan is loud, but never super loud. However, most of the time I turn on the AC, theres a 1 second grind or "clunk". I assume its the AC clutch being unhappy or AC compressor, but it continues to cool perfectly while truck is in motion. I wonder if the clunk could be the radiator fan clutch trying to engage to speed up the fan? Maybe not. Anyway, sounds like I should just take it to Dodge and have them look. I have little time to fix stuff anymore and moved to a new place where i have no "truck guy" to fix stuff.
2006 mega ctd 2500 is at 127k and Im not sure if the prior owner did a coolant or trans flush. I have the trans fluid in garage waiting for me and got some zerex hoat G05 coolant bottle, but just for top off. I've put 4k miles on it and coolant only went down 1/2 inch in container, so I threw 2 glasses of distilled water in on a pinch. Ill ask if coolant was actually flushed or just replaced.

thx for help!
 
Clicking noise is normal and front the a/c compressor. Fan clutch will not clunk. It works from radiator temp. I would recommend searching online for shops in your area that have good reviews.noise
 
I have seen it happen even with a hot flush tran machine it is possible. I did a hot flush on a truck with 250k km the owner just bought i warned him he said do it i ran the hot flush machine for 2 cycles a week later the truck came back on a flat deck the guy had to pay us to put a trans in… there is a reason people have heard the same story, because it does happen not to everyone but it can happen the same reason you never reuse a trans cooler if the tranny blew even if flushed it can still be dirty and can ruin a new transmission
Odd... my guy didn't change any of my coolers when he did my trans... and it's been years... I remember him saying he did flush everything.
 
Not worth the gamble as coolers are cheap. 70$ for an aftermarket cooler is cheaper than a 3k+ trans
Oh I totally agree... at the time I didn't even think about it. TRE guy knows much more than I do... And my trans was 6K.
 
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Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
UPDATE--->

Hey, so I installed the cummins thermostat on my 5.9
Then i removed the entire EDGE system except for monitoring sensors, then i drove around town at 88F outside.
Edge monitor continues to show overheating:

Engine 217
Trans 212

I listened for the radiator fan to scream at those Temps, but never heard any significant changes in sound nor bogging of engine. Temps just want to rise as I drive up hills. However, since fan motor does spin, if I park, Temps are fine while it's 88 outside. At the end, I parked, and the truck went into a higher idle and I expected a fan to Blair at those high Temps of 217 engine, but nope. After sitting for 2 min, the Temps started barely going down and high idle went back to standard idle. I still have no engine light, no codes.

Also, old owner said the following were recently replaced:
Water pump
Coolant
Radiator fan from Dodge.

I also turned the radiator fan blade by hand, with engine off and it spins maybe 3/4 turn to 1.5 then stops. It spins fluently with a little resistance. And while engine is running, the blade cannot be stopped. I also topped off coolant for fun.

I also looked inside the EDGE monitor to see if it had ever saved codes and it did. At some point in the past 10yrs, it had a "p0480 fan 1 control". Lol, not too helpful, but interesting.

So, I'm at the point where I think I need to troubleshoot the fan motor or pressure transducer or other.. Not sure how to do it. Have to google I suppose

Side note: I spoke with EDGE tech. He said, if I want to swap my old edge unit, I can get 25% off the online price. That's nice. However, mine appears to function.

For reference, this guy is having same issues. Nobody seems to be commenting on sensor problems, just FSN motor replacement. I need to test the clutch!

Ideas?
 
I'm pretty sure the fan should that much. It shouldn't spin more than a quarter turn by hand. They should have pretty good resistance from my experience on our trucks.
 
I just went through a very similar issue. You can read all about it here:


Spoiler alert! IT WAS THE FAN CLUTCH.

Make sure to use Cummins brands water pump, thermostat, etc. Use Mopar fan clutch if available. If not, Hayden brand is a close second.
 
The factory service manual has a procedure for testing fan clutch operation(mine failed at the end). It's in post 33. But I'll copy it in here for you.

You can test fan RPM by grounding pin one on connector. Use scan tool to monitor fan RPM.


NOTE: The following test may take up to 15 minutes to perform.
The engine should be at normal operating temperature.

1. Set the parking brake and verify the transmission is in park or neutral.

2. Set air conditioner (if equipped) and blower fan to OFF.

3. Start and allow engine to reach normal operating temperatures.

4. Stop engine, connect the scan tool and select appropriate model year and engine option.

5. Check for and correct existing DTC’s

6. Using Tool 6801, backprobe pin 1 of the electronically controlled viscous fan drive connector, with the harness connected located at the lower fan shroud to battery ground.

NOTE: The fan drive control coil is energized to 12 volts at this time.
WARNING: A spark may occur when connecting pin to ground. Be sure that no combustible material is in the area.

7. Using the scan tool, verify that DTC 0480 set. If it is not set, verify that a good ground is available.

8. Start the engine.

9. Actuate engine speed to 2000 RPM..

10. Go to the SENSOR screen and observe the fan speed.

11. Run the engine at 2000 RPM until the fan speed increases to 1850 RPM or more for 30 seconds.
NOTE: Fan RPM may ramp up slowly.
NOTE: It maybe take 15 minutes before fan speed increases.

12. The fan speed should be in accordance to the table below.

13. If fan speed does not increase, make sure that the jumper wire has a good connection. If so replace the electronically
control viscous fan drive.

ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED VISCOUS FAN DRIVE SPEEDS
ENGINE RPM FAN RPM (Min)
1000 950
1500 1420
2000 1850
2500 2230
14. If the fan speed does increase and there is still a concern, refer to the appropriate Engine Electrical Diagnosis
Section to diagnosis the electronically controlled viscous fan drive control circuit.
 
Actually, my problem was a weak, intermittently failing fan clutch AND a stuck thermostat. When I tow heavy this Thursday, I'll monitor tempuratures to make sure there are no other contributors to the issue. It is currently resolved enough that no issues are present unless towing. That makes troubleshooting more difficult. This new fan clutch (Hayden brand) roars like crazy. When yours is working, you'll understand what all the other posters were talking about. Your AC will work better at idle and slow speeds, too.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Actually, my problem was a weak, intermittently failing fan clutch AND a stuck thermostat. When I tow heavy this Thursday, I'll monitor tempuratures to make sure there are no other contributors to the issue. It is currently resolved enough that no issues are present unless towing. That makes troubleshooting more difficult. This new fan clutch (Hayden brand) roars like crazy. When yours is working, you'll understand what all the other posters were talking about. Your AC will work better at idle and slow speeds, too.
Hey great guys!!
I'll go through the service manual and troubleshoot a bit.
Maybe it's just the temp sensor! How could it be the newer dodge clutch!! Yes I saw the Hayden on rockauto for 150 ish. Hopefully that would last a lil while.

Yes, id like to experience a roaring fan, with proper ac at idle lol.

Ill try Grounding pin 1, raise engine rpms and see if fan rpm goes up. I only have a simple harbor freight obd 2 scanner, so I don't think I have ability to monitor fan rpm. I can listen at least to see if it spins more. But that just means it's not properly grounded, right?
I'd need to check the other wire for 12v too?

Ty for the service manual page. I need to just buy the book. They're so worth it.

Do you have a link to the manual or download? I can never find only phone. I'd like to see their pictures illustrations too. Thx!
 
Grounding pin 1 is not due to it being improperly grounded. That's what allows you to monitor fan RPM vs engine RPM. Get a proper scan tool that can read fan RPM or find someone who has one. I had a friend who does side work on cars. His scanner happened to have this capability. Read the thread i linked above. Mine passed the entire test. Then while I was thinking about what to try next, the fan just stopped. If I had rushed through the test I would have missed the bad clutch.

It definitely COULD be the newer Dodge clutch. And it sounds like it is. Nothing at this point is really pointing to a bad temp sensor. And driving it hot because the temp sensor may be bad is gambling with your head gasket on the line.
 
Here is the link to the factory service manual. I think it was section 7-75 or 7-77? Not exactly sure.

 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Fantastic!

Wish I had a better scanner. I only have a cheapy autel obd 2 MS509

Maybe without a scanner, I can just listen somehow? I'm not sure which scanner to grab. I looked to find one that specifies something like that but haven't seen online. I'll be near harbor freight this week, so I could grab another cheapy upgrade if I knew it would work.

Ideas on a scanner?
 
Not sure. I don't have one that will read it either. I bought the Edge Insight CTS3 for gauges, not knowing I needed a fan RPM gauge. I think the MM3 can read it? Not sure though. I didn't get that because it is also a tuner, costs twice as much, I'd rather get EFI Live tuned, and not sure if it is expandable like the Edge. But if it already has tons of parameters that can be monitored, it may not need to be expandable.
The guy who owns the shop I go to has a Snap-On ipad type of scanner. I bet it cost $10,000. The guy who reads my RPM had a cheapo version. Definitely Chinese knockoff. He said it cost $1600 several years ago.
 
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