Have you talked to Eric at HUNGRYDIESEL to see if he might be able to help you?

 

Not yet. I have been dealing with todd at pdp. He built the kit for me. I was just wantin to see what everyone else was runnin. This is all new territory for me

 

You should be able to make significant'y more boost than that with that fueling.

I'd be checking the wastegates and I'd also check to make sure your AFC is travelling like it is supposed to be.

 

Thats what i was thinking. I made more boost with a crappy turbo and less fuel. Im goin to check my waste gate tonight. Ill also check the afc travel

 

My next question would be how much travel should i get from the afc?

 

That's a hard answer to give. That answer depends on your fuel pin. IF you're only making 30psi and your afc is the culprit, you're afc is doing nothing most likely. Make sure the fuel pin is moving from boost pressure, if it is and you're not getting spring binding (if your star wheel is bottomed out, it won't be) Then the issue lies elsewhere.

Last question since it is relevant because you're running compounds: where is your boost gauge tapped in to?

 

The afc moves freely. What about removing the plastic spacer on the fuel pin. The wear mark shows its not gettin full movement.

My boost gauge is in the intake horn. So its measuring full boost.

My wastegate is set about 25 lbs. I tested it with my regulated air compressor

 

40 plus with stock fueling/injectors

 

40 plus with stock fueling

Not even close lol. It does seem like its fueling less than before. Even without the intercooler piping hooked up you could see it wasnt a thick black smoke cloud when you piped it.

Makin my brain hurt:|

 

Also it has no boost down low. I understand the truck is stripped down and really has no load on it but it doesnt even move the boost gauge for a while in 3rd. Maybe a video is in order

 

One more thought. What if i messed up and didnt get the throttle shaft put back on right when i did my gove spring?!:surprise:

 

nvm I misunderstood what you meant.

If it's not building boost very quickly, I would be looking at the wastegate.

Do both turbos have wastegates or just the secondary?

And what do you mean by stripped down?

 

the intake horn of which turbo?

The intake horn bolted to the heater grid. After the intercooler

 

yeah I edited my post. you're quick in response

IT could be that it isn't getting full throttle any more, that could definitely cause the problem you're seeing.

I always throw that plastic ring that slides over the fuel pin away.

try tightening down the secondary gate and see what happens

 

yeah I edited my post. you're quick in response

IT could be that it isn't getting full throttle any more, that could definitely cause the problem you're seeing.

I always throw that plastic ring that slides over the fuel pin away.

Which turbo has the wastegate set at 25psi?

The k27 has the waste gate.

 

and what are the full specs on the s369? like what turbine wheel and housing is on it?

E: yeah I edited my post again because I sent it before your second response loaded on my page

 

SXE 369 with the 1.00 A/R tubine housing. I cant find my paper work on it. Im havin a brain fart on the rest

 

Well either way it's likely due to a lack of fueling. If the fuel pin is moving like it is supposed to be then it has to be something else. I would check to make sure you're getting full throttle. Are you certain the power screw is near runaway?

The video didn't post.

Is the tailpipe clean at wide open throttle?

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

The fuel screw was before, but i guess i did pull it to do the gov spring. Its idling about thevsame rpm. Maybe ill push it in alittle more. Yeah its pretty clean at wot

 

https://youtu.be/tCXdAygCcBE

 

0:11-0:12... There's a drive pressure leak. Wouldn't hurt to get that taken care of.

You're getting some experienced help, so I have nothing to really add, but I have read that drive pressure and shop air are night and day difference. A gate can open way sooner than what it does with shop air. A member here had the same problem on his 2nd gen. He'd set the gate with shop air, but in reality the gate was opening way sooner, causing low boost.
Something to think about...

 

All the 369sxe's I've seen have the updated 80/73 turbine wheel. It certainly sounds like a lack of fuel since your egts are so low. Lack of load would explain some of it, but not all of it.

My setup before I maxed my pump was netting 35psi overall, 20 from the primary, and hazed; now with the pump maxed I'm at 45, and 30, and it cleans all the way up. My primary is still doing almost all the work, but it does move decent.

 

Im goin to check the index on the trottle and run the power screw in alittle more

 

Bad pic sorry, but this is where my throttle is. Looks pretty close to the second pic i found on line. It might be a tooth different. But every truck is different




Reference pic

 

It's idling low. I'm guessing you don't actually have a tach hooked up. It sounds like it's idling down around 5-600rpm. 650 tops. It needs to be up around 800

Nice build for sure though. I like that.

Turn the fuel screw in (make sure you have a board on hand for when it runs away) until runaway and then back it out 1/4 or 1/2 turn

If I had to take a stab at it, I'd guess your issue is the fuel screw wasn't put back where it was supposed to be after the GOV spring install

Throttle indexing won't necessarily change whether or not your getting full throttle. To check if you're getting full throttle you need to have someone in the cab push the pedal to the floor while you check to see if the throttle arm gets pulled all the way to the high idle (full throttle) stop on the pump.

 

Thanks for all he help richard! Ill try that tomorrow:grin2:

I can hook my tach back up to see. Should i leave the throttle alone and just try the power screw? If that doesnt do it then move the throttle.

 

Leave the throttle indexing as-is. It's in the right spot. If it was wrong the truck wouldn't start if it was off one way, and if off the other way it would be idling way high at like 1500-2000rpm

For reference, this is 800rpm as shown by the tach on my dash when it first fires up

 

I used my work truck as a reference. It sounds lower than that. Lol, it doesnt have a tach. Ill turn it up and hook the tack up.

 

Thanks will, i had a loose manifold bolt. Its not leakin now

 

At the moment, it is highly unlikely to be your problem but Will does make a very good point about the wastegate.

When it comes to setting a wastegate with shop air the one thing that isn't taken into consideration is the exhaust pressure trying to push the wastegate puck open. While the pressure inside the can with shop air may hold it shut at 20psi it's not taking into account the roughly 20psi of exhaust pressure also pushing on the pucks which is, in turn, pushing the rod on the can. This usually becomes an issue when people don't have enough tension on the turnbuckle for the wastegate so exhaust pressure overcomes the tension from the can and forces the gate open. This is typically a problem at higher boost pressures and with compound setups. It is also why many people opt to run spring gates instead on compound setups.

After you've sorted out your low boost problem and trying to dial in/tune your compounds, keep this in mind.

 

Thanks guys! :grin2:

 

I do like my spring gate. Much quicker, and easier to tune