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how to on removing head.

77K views 56 replies 34 participants last post by  Philip Tibitoski  
#1 ·
Removing the head on 2009 6.7 cummins with egr/egr cooler delete. I was out digging when the gasket blew so the motor is really dirty dont mind that LOL.
1.Disconnect both batteries. Its a 1/2" nut, I just use a ratcheting end wrench, and I take off both neg and pos terminals.
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2. Unhook all sensors. Pictures show all sensors but Map sensor which is on the back side of the inake horn. If running stock intake horn there will be a couple more sensors on the horn that need unhooked.
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3. Unhook both ccv drain lines. Just wiggle them back and forth and pull them off. Might have to use a flat head screwdriver to pry them away also. Once the lines are removed, pull out the fittings using a 3/4"
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4.Remove cold air intake, or stock airbox from truck. I have a afe, and dont run the box on it, so I just used a flat head screwdriver and loosened up the clamp right on the turbo, and pulled the whole tube and filter our as one piece. I also have my ccv line bypassed and plugged , so if you have a stock airbox you will need to unhook that line also.
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5.Drain coolant out from the bottom of the radiator, use a pair of pliers if it wont turn by hand. It turns 90* then pops out. Put a clean bucket underneath it so you can reuse the antifreeze. It drains pretty slow, and you dont need to drain all of it out just like 2 gallons, you can leave it draining and move onto the next steps, then close it up later.
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6.Remove dipstick bracket. I am running h&s horn, so I use 7/16" wrench and unbolt it from the bracket that is hooked to the ccv cover. If running stock intake it will be 1 10mm bolt holding it on.
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7. Remove 5 intake manifold bolts, or 6 if running stock intake. They are 10mm and I use socket and rachet with extension. Loosen clamp up on intake horn to intercooler piping. I used a 7/16" ratcheting end wrench, or you can use a deepwell socket. Remove the intake horn, being careful to not ruin the gasket unless you have a new one. I also put papertowels in the tubing so nothing can be dropped into it.
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8.Remove the 8 8mm bolts holding the ccv cover on. Remove oil cap. Pull off cover and remove ccv filter. Inspect filter to see if it needs replaced.
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9. Loosen the 6 10mm vlave cover bolts, and pull valve cover off.
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10.Remove the coolant lines off the head fittings, if you are plugged then you dont have to remove the one. You can screw them out of the head now, or leave then in tell the head is pulled.
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11.Loosen the 2 8mm nuts on each injector, be careful not to break them. They stay connected to the wire. Note the color of the wire to where it goes on the injector. Once all loosened up, pull the valve cover gasket off .
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12. Remove the 7 10mm bolts on the rocker housing, and remove housing.
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13.Remove all 6 fuel lines going from cross over tubes to fuel rail. Start with #1 and work your way back using 3/4" wrench.
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14. Remove lock down nut 15/16" wrench, and cross over tube out of head. Start with #1 and work your way back. If you cant wiggle and pull them out by hand, take a fuel line and screw it back on and use it to pull it out.
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15. Loosen 10mm rocker arm bolts on all rocker arms, 2 per cylinder.
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16. I use zip lock bags or you can lay them out on a table. But starting with #1, pull the exhaust and intake rockers off and put them in the bag labeled #1, pull the piece the rockers sit on, and put it in the same bag. Pull the valve bridges off and put them in the same bag. Pull the push tubes out and put them in the same bag. Put paper towels in the push tube holes so nothing can be dropped down them. Loosen up the 2 8mm bolts on the injector hold down. I use a big screw driver to pry against the lip on the injector and they pop right out. Put the injector in the same bag, and put a papertowel in the injector hole, and then follow the same steps for the rest of the cylinders. For #5, and 6 there are 2 rubber gromments above them, that need to be removed, so when you pull the push rods out, you lift them up into the cab, and they will have room to come out.
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17.Remove fuel line from rail to cp3 3/4" wrench
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18.Remove banjo bolt from rail to fuel filter housing, and remove banjo bolt on the back of the head to fuel filter housing using a 17mm wrench. There are two rubber/metal washer gaskets on the banjo bolts, dont loose them.
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19.Remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the fuel rail on, and remove fuel rail.
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20. Remove 2 10mm bolts holding fuel filter housing to head. Pull it out so the line going to the back of the head is on the outside of the lifting eye bracket.
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#2 ·
21.Remove 10mm nut holding grid heater wire on, and 1/2" bolt, bolting wire to head. Double check under the intake plenum and make sure no other wires are bolted to the head, I believe there might be a couple, but the first time I removed the head, i didnt fill the need to bolt them back up.
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22.Remove line going from exhaust manifold to thermostat housing for drive pressure sensor. Its 12mm for the lines and 15mm for the bracket bolted to the exhaust manifold.
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23. Remove 3 8mm bolts holding thermostat housing onto head. Swing out of way to above drivers side battery. Pull out thermostat and place paper towel in hole.
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24. Remove 10mm bolt holding wires to head. There might be a couple more brackets there holding wires, but I only put one back on when I pulled the head the last time.
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25.Remove bracket going from head to fan shroud. 2 10mm bolts on the head side and 1/2" nut on the fan shroud side. There also might be wires bolted to the bracket that will need to be removed.I didnt bolt mine back in there after I pulled the head the last time.
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26.Remove 15mm bolt on alternator bracket on the alternator side. Remove 4 10mm bolts on the alternator bracket on the head side. Pry bracket out with pry bar or big screw driver.
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27. Remove the 5 15mm nuts holding the heat shield onto the exhaust manifold. There is 6 but one was removed when the drive pressure tube was pulled.
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28. Looking at the top of the motor, look down between #2 and #3 on the exhaust manifold, you will see a 10m bolt holding the coolant line to the block. Remove that bolt so you have play with the coolant line. I dont have a picture of it.

29. On #6 bottom side of the manifold is a 15mm nut, pull it off and then pull the coolant line bracket out and off the stud to the side so you can access the exhaust manifold bolt. I dont have a picture of this, but you have to pull pretty hard to get it over the stud because it hits against the foot on the manifold.

30. If your exhaust manifold as not been pulled before, you will see a metal piece covering the exhaust manifold bolts, so they can not back out. Pull them off. I just used pliers and ripped them off and did not reuse them. I dont have a picture of them, mine were allready removed from the last time I pulled the head.

31.Remove the exhaust manifold bolts, there 13mm and you will need a deepwell socket. Pull all the bottom oout first then pull the top, catching the gaskets as you work your way. Its probably not the best of ideas, but the downpipe and intercooler piping support them just fine, so you can leave the turbo and manifold hanging.
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32. Remove all head bolts. I cant remember the size of the stock ones off the top of my head I head different ones in. There are 26 of them.
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33. Hook chain up to lifting eyes and hook up to cherry picker or hoist. Hook the chain up tight so there is not much slack. You will have to slowly come up and turn it as its coming up while you are pulling back so it will clear the firewall.
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34. When you send the head off it will need to be stripped bare. The valves can stay in it but you need to pull off all the sensors,brackets, bolts etc that are are the head for them to clean it up and deck it. If you pull the head, have it check to make sure its true, the heads seem to warp really bad, and dont come very straight from the factory.
 
#4 ·
The mods will probably move it to the tech section, I just wanted to post it up in here so people would see that there is one now. Its not the best, but it will help alot of people out.
 
#6 ·
WOW! Thats a lot of work. Putting it all back together would be even worse. Very good write up though. I'm not going to try it any time soon though. Maybe if I get a beater that I want to fix up.
 
#8 ·
Very well written KMK. This really gave me an insight on how much needs to be done in order to get to the head gasket. I guess I better get those studs on their way before something happens.
 
#11 ·
ya it would be way to much work to pull it off
 
#14 ·
i was going to, but didnt want to drive anymore then i needed to, plus it shows i actually take it off the highway unlike most people :hehe:, if under the hood is that dirty, you should have seen the rest of the truck
 
#17 ·
THANKS FOR THE GREAT WRITE UP!!!
if followed step by step can go wrong...

unless your me.. didnt see the part about removing the rubber bungs above 5 6 to get the robs out... DAMN it took me 3 hours to figure that out believe it or not cause while trying i droped one and took me 2.5 hours to fish it back out..

other then that fact i didnt follow them to the T.. they are great.

just got to get it decked and put it all back together
 
#18 ·
the biggest problem i had doing this was the fuel return line behind the head, where it mounts under the intake into a block, had to loosen the fuel filter housing and move it out of the way to get at it, it was a b!t€h, and thanks, this write up was very helpfull
 
#20 ·
Just pulled mine apart yesterday. Exhaust manifold and turbo were also removed as an unit.
Turbo removed due to sb66 upgrade on reinstall.
Took us 5hrs. Truck already had egr delete.

Noticed on head removal, some head bolts tight, others not so tight.

No visible signs of headgasket damage.

I think loose or stretched bolts caused my HG to squeak, cause I never did get bubbling coolant in overflow, just slowly rising overflow.

Major carbon in intake, and grid heater.
These are being replaced with passenger diesel goodies.

Can't wait to see this baby run.
 
#22 ·
We disassembled in about 4hrs.
Head went out and serviced that week, then an entire day to put back together the following saturday.

We took our time and cleaned everything and bottom tapped for the studs.
 
#26 ·
Dodge specs are 12 thou from #1 to 6 cyl and 3 thou from intake to exhaust. If your head checks out dead flat from a machine shop i would run it ( i doubt it will )! I have seen where the gasket lost some of the rings and caused wear into the head due to vibration. In that case i would have it resurfaced :thumbsup:
 
#27 · (Edited)
Where did you get those specs from. .012" is a lot. The .004" came from a dealer tech at my local dealer, when I had mine pulled, this was also 2 years ago so they might have changed it.
Never mind i found this.

The distortion of the combustion deck face is not to exceed 0.010 mm (0.0004 inch) in any 50.8 mm (2.00 inch) diameter. Overall variation end to end or side to side 0.30 mm (0.012 inch).
 
#28 ·
My local dealer about three yrs ago! I about sh!t myself!
 
#30 · (Edited)
Mine was out .004" then got it surfaced flat, magnafluxed and pressure tested. If I remember right was about $200-$250. I picked a top race engine builder locally to do it.
Mighty expensive chunk of metal to have some Jo boy grind away at it.
Another big expense was all my gaskets. Ended up doing all fresh injector orings and some fuel banjo rings etc.

I'm sure I could of slapped it together, but wanted to cover all bases.

Compared to what I was quoted to do studs and headgasket, I managed to also swap a turbo in as well, by doing it myself.

Two weeks after, i was like gosh darn it wally, shut the front door!,started smelling coolant again.
Water pump went out.
I only had 100000km . May want to do as well. Easy job the water pump was tho.
 
#31 ·
Yeah it don't cost much to pay jo boy by the hr but how many tens of thousands do you think the macine costs :thumbsup: