My original stock injectors went 290k miles. So a long time. You can plan on 150k at least.

Signs are bad atomization of fuel. So things like rough starts and hard starts. More smoke than usual. Lower mpg, high EGTs. In other words without pop testing almost impossible to tell...

 

Do you have symptoms you think are caused by bad injectors? That may be easier to diagnose. I don't view injectors as a wear item, especially with good fuel filtration and supply. But as said, testing the injectors is the real way to tell their condition.

 

I developed a small miss at idle when warm due to a small amount of carbon on the tips at over 500k mi, Replaced them with a set of 100k take outs from a friend. All good now.

 

Replace them when they show signs of needing to be replaced.

 

I think just like cat motors you can maybe do a cut out test to find a weak or bad injector. But not for sure who can or does offer this or if is even possible on an isb.

 

Injectors on a 24V are TOTALLY DIFFERENT ANIMALS than on CR's - these ones last forever (almost) with proper filters and decent fuel. I've got 500+ on my 24V, and they're fine - changed them at 150K on my CR - just one more nail in the coffin for my '06, still looking for that unicorn Gen II so I can dump the III. on a CR, they're basically a wear item like brake pads, far as I can tell, and that's WITH Glacier filtration mods.

Same as above for diagnostics, hard starts, rough idle, worst case most shops can pop-test them pretty easy, or even just changing them isn't as insane expensive as a CR.

 

It also helps to get an oil analysis done occasionally to check for fuel dilution. There are several issues with the injection system that could cause fuel to get in the oil. It's one of the top engine killers if it's left unchecked.

 

This is what lead me to change my injectors. Ran Mach 2's for five years until I started seeing excess smoke, soot on my garage floor on startup and then finally Blackstone oil analysis showed fuel in my oil. Changed to Bosch RV275's and now less smoke and soot and just did a smog test (NV) and all indicators were much better then previous tests. Seems to run smoother too.

 

Are stock injectors VCO or SAC? Are SAC injectors ever used in anything from the factory or are they strictly aftermarket product? Seems like VCO wear out but are more reliable. Right?

 

sac are more reliable then vco and stock is vco. Sac is just smoke but it makes better power

 

Matter of fact... My +50 HP injectors finally gave up at little over 70k miles. Short life span. Misfire issues at idle. So I turned them in as cores to DAP and got a set of +75 SAC's (with pintle modifications be closer to +90 HP) on the way and be here by Tuesday.

 

Great timing! I'm pulling my VP when it gets a tad warmer so I can reseal my tappet cover and vacuum pump. losing almost a quart every 5 hours at low RPM last I looked. I'm gonna get my injectors pop tested, 2001.5 with 276k miles on it. It doesn't run bad, but I think it could/should run a lot better, and at least I'll know what kinda condition they are in. D&W Diesel in Sewell, NJ said they'd test & clean for free 👍🏻

I suppose I should plan on replacing the o-rings no matter what right? Anything else?

 

Beren, you still around? I have some questions regarding this

 

Yea, that sounds like the vacuum pump leak. Seal kit is about 20 bucks at Cummins. You should do it as soon as possible and it may get worse tomorrow.

 

I'm doing both… It's not my DD, I have a Civic i keep in the bed for that :wink2: I's had a drip since I got it at 220k but recently it's gotten worse. I am dreading the front main seal is leaking as well, or the gear cover. Everything has at least a little oil on it it seems, but I can see about 1 drip/sec now coming off the back of the oil pan lip at idle.

 

Sounds like it is leaking everywhere. It can often help if you tighten bolts like all the pan bolts.
The vacuum pump can be seen leaking out the bottom with a flashlight when running. The seal gets hard and leaks then a chunk can fall out of it and it gets worse. Maybe that is yours.
A thin coating of oil often comes out of the vent tube and there is not much you can do about that.

 

The breather will coat the entire engine with a film over a short period of time.

If you don't want that, either install a oil vent tank or relocate the breather line.

Injectors in our 24vs don't usually fail, but they do wear to the point where pop pressure will be significantly lower. When that happens they should be taken into an injection shop and shimmed. Costs me about $230 CAD to have it done, and have them pop tested.

Sent from my ASUS_Z012DC using Tapatalk

 

6 Year old thread.....
Injectors should go at least 300K

 

My first ones ran 550K mi and one was carboned and missing at idle. Got about 350k on present set and had them out last month were perfectly clan and working fine.

 

The big diesels will go upwards to a million on the old mechanical engines.
I had several engines with way over 500K
The electronic crap prolly as not near as good?

 

2nd gen injectors are not electric. like 3rd+ gen Only the pump is electronic.

 

I KNOW that !
but
The old systems were mechanical and used the cam to fire them.
There was very little pump pressure.
They lasted forever and ever .
Prolly too long?
They could not make any money in the parts department ...
All the new stuff fails way B4 the old school parts did.

 

Don't worry about Parts Dept's, they have always made money.

 

Not too worried but they evidently they are?.
Remember when a diesel was so EZ to "Inframe?
Pull the head(s)
Pull the pan, pop the pistons out, pull the liners (cylinders) install new,
,roll in new bearings, install rebuit head(s)
Good for another 800K !!!!!!!!

 

I have not given up on mine at all. The questions w=is which will last longer it or me. Neither of us can afford a replacement.