you definitely want that wire clean and tite or you will have starter problems without a doubt. R U referring to the small thin wire? If so that controls your solenoid and would explain the clidk click you were hearing. Have you pulled the starter and checked contacts. Those are frequent issue and easy to change out.

 

It's not clicking anymore but it might start again. The bolt was stripped I even tried to pull it with vise grips. I put back on tight, put the new connector and a new bolt under that. Since I've done this I'm now getting electrical issues like a 0230 code. I'm not getting signals and my battery terminal has blackened.


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P0230 is a fuel pump circuit code is your fuel pump running when you bump the starter ??
This should have nothing to do with the trigger wire that runs to the starter. Sounds like you have a couple problems.

 

Don't even get me started!! I have a list I'm going through. Hard to start, dead peddle at all throttle positions, every since I took all the return lines off and replaces parts. Front suspension junked, power steering pump gummed up. Need new blend door part. I can do all this just gonna take some time. I just really wasn't sure about that ground. First terminal replacement I've done.


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Just throwing the 0121- throttle position sensor and the 0230-transfer pump circuit out of range. No serious ones-yet


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If your fuel pumps not running I would call that a serious one. You still running a stock pump if so time for a fass and a gauge it is only money

 

One more question. If the pump isn't transferring the fuel how is it getting to the injectors? I cracked my injectors today and they were spaying fine and she ran like a scalded dog. I know it goes from lift, filter then injector pump. Does some still bypass on another line?


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Lol yeah only money!! I think my new captain chair needs to be on the bumper, bent over.


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I took it as all electrical. The 0230 just happened. Well time to call my parts guy. Thanks guys


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if your lift pump dies, the injection pump will still try to suck fuel through the dead lift pump and may run for a while...it is causing damage to the injection pump to do so though...

get yourself a fuel pressure gauge on there to be sure your lift pump is pumping and keeping the pressure in a safe range. :thumbsup:

0-30psi mechanical fp gauge from isspro or autometer will do the trick. you will need a tapped banjo bolt to tap the gauge into the fuel system, and a 1/8NPT needle valve to act as a snubber/fuel shutoff, and about 6' of 1/8" airbrake line from napa to plumb from the needle valve to the gauge in the cab.

for mounts you can either get a pillar mount, or a steering column mount...some have even shoved them in the cubby hole in the dash (if your truck does not have heated leather seats, there will be a cubby hole there...if you have heated leather seats, there will NOT be a cubby hole there)

 

Thanks alot, appreciate it. Just so happen I was looking at those gauges earlier thinking it would be nice to know what kind of pressure I was actually getting. Ill try to leave her alone until I get a new pump on.


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yep, fuel pressure gauge is definitely a must on these vp44 trucks...they are very unforgiving if they don't get their proper fuel pressure

once you get one on there, you will want to see 10-20psi fuel pressure at all times (this includes WOT)

 

That is an extra ground wire. There are no factory ground wires to starter. It is all self grounded. Just the switch wire to solenoid and hot battery cable. If the starter bolts become loose they can arc and get kind of welded in.