You guys not have anything??

 

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/485052-please-show-me-how-smart-you-guys.html

 

Mine did this for months & nobody could tell me why. Finally I pulled the injectors out & had them tested, two were bad. With the smarty on it had no codes. With the truck stock it would have a PO 148 code. Someone on another forum told me that the light meant excess fuel return. I tried everything eles but it was an injector.

 

Hm well I'm doing a grid heater delete in the newark future, the light hasn't came on since then but I would not be surprised if I had a bad injector or two, it has very small misses when running down the highway but I can definitively tell, and it does have 171k on it so it's liable to have that

 

My WTS light comes on and I get the dinging too. The # of dings varies from 4 to about 12. When it happens I don't get any loss of power. The light usually goes off inside of a minute. I've posted and read posts about this on here and the general consensis is that it has something to do with the latest Dodge flash and a Smarty having some kind of conflict. From studying the condtitions at the time my truck does it I formulated an opinion that if it's a computer glitch it has something to do with the throttle position sensor. My light comes on when I'm going up a grade with constant light throttle applied. Sometimes it'll do it on the highway.

I can see how it could be an injector warning but I don't understand why a Smarty would hide the code. I've had the light come on when I had the Smarty on the truck and off the truck and got no codes.

Where is the Intake Air Temp sensor located? The link above refers to it as a possible cause. That could be a cheap way to start troubleshooting. I'd say that injectors would be the expensive way to start troubleshooting.

Also, what's the probability that it's not injector if there is no loss of power when thelight comes on?

If you delete the grid heater will the WTS light come on when air temps are right?

 

My WTS light comes on and I get the dinging too. The # of dings varies from 4 to about 12. When it happens I don't get any loss of power. The light usually goes off inside of a minute. I've posted and read posts about this on here and the general consensis is that it has something to do with the latest Dodge flash and a Smarty having some kind of conflict. From studying the condtitions at the time my truck does it I formulated an opinion that if it's a computer glitch it has something to do with the throttle position sensor. My light comes on when I'm going up a grade with constant light throttle applied. Sometimes it'll do it on the highway.

I can see how it could be an injector warning but I don't understand why a Smarty would hide the code. I've had the light come on when I had the Smarty on the truck and off the truck and got no codes.

Where is the Intake Air Temp sensor located? The link above refers to it as a possible cause. That could be a cheap way to start troubleshooting. I'd say that injectors would be the expensive way to start troubleshooting.

Also, what's the probability that it's not injector if there is no loss of power when thelight comes on?

If you delete the grid heater will the WTS light come on when air temps are right?

Hi good evening I have this exact same issue with my 07 megacab... the heat grid code usually comes on if I put my foot into it up upgrade with steady throttle but the last few days another code has been following it comes up as a Fuel delivery issue....my 5.9 has just over 300 on it I have a second gen manifold I recently installed a titanium 165 signature fads fuel lift pump o have a cold air intake that will be coming out and I have a big borg Warner turbo I don't remember the exact model ....I purchased a new heat grid will install this weekend ....oh yah I use the edge evelution 3 tuner I just installed it ...not sure if I like it but it's user friendly....Anyway ...did you happen to replace the injectors as if possible I'd like to spare that expense atm also any of you get the fuel delivery code it appears as the engine light?

I'm learning as I go but some solid advise would be appreciated

 

From what I've read, the WTS light doesn't come on after deleting it unless you turn the key and don't immediately crank the engine. As for yours being an injector if you have no loss of power, excessive smoke, or the engine doesn't sound funny then Its probably not one.

 

Do what I did first. Find someone with the same truck that will let you swap sensors. I changed every one I could find. I swapped them back of course after a few days. My truck ran the same & so did my buddy's truck. I changed battery's, put new ground wires, fca lift pump & changed smarty to the newest software. I also unhooked the grid heater. As why it didn't show a code with smarty off, I don't know. I hope you don't have a bad injector, (they cost so much), I'm just relaying what my truck did. One more thing, have you checked all the bulbs in your truck? I read somewhere that the light comes on if a bulb is out. Good luck

 

for some reason this complication is only happing on the 06 models. My truck dose the same thing. only it comes on at speeds higher then 65 or 70 and puts my truck in "limp mode" is it possible that the grid heater solenoid that is located on the passenger fender could be going bad? because if the computer thinks that the grid heater is on would it cause the "limp mode" to happen? i have checked every. i checked my injectors and one was bad and i replaced it with a brand new one and the problem still went on checked all battery connections and put new batteries in. Arnt the computers supost to be designed to inform you if there was a sensor going bad and atleast give you some kind of lead? i need to figure this out and get it fixed because it is killing me!!!

 

If the grid heater was on you would see the draw on the amp meter. Keep a test light in the truck with you & when it comes on see if the grid solenoid is getting power. It should have power to one side but not to the grid itself. The intake air sensor is the one at the air cleaner. There is a second one but I'd have to look under my hood to remember where. I think it's on the drivers side on the intake?

 

I forgot to ask, have you had the truck at a dealer? If so what did they think.

 

Well for some reason mine hasnt come on in some time now, maybe 2 weeks. I ran BG injector cleaner through it and it seems to run better now. I'm still going to go through with the grid heater delete though. I don't get why these 06's have so many little problems, my tach is broken, also had a leaking heater hose that I replaced, my damn ac compressor seized up right after i bought it and i still need to replace that, have a transmission leak and an oil leak that i'm not worried about but still, i'm kind of dissapointed that it has had almost as much problems within the first month of owning it as my 04 did in the year i owned it.

 

Where is it leaking oil? The reason I ask is that mine developed a rear oil seal leak about a year ago. The dealer wanted $1000 to fix it. Luckily I have a lift in my shop so I pulled the trans. & put in a rear seal from cummins. It cost $60. As far as the tach goes does it use a sending unit?

 

My 05 is doing the same thing. The light would come on but the solenoids were not engaging, and the heater was not actually turning on. I had a lamp out light on as well. At the same time I'm getting a massive loss of power. Like the Smarty is not there. The peddle was not responsive and the truck was falling on its face towing. This all happened in a two day period.

I changed the bulb, pulled the Smarty off, and the lights went away. I took the truck to the dealer and they said they can't find anything wrong with it (checking the computer). Although, it is likely that I have a bad injector (audible miss at idle, 205k miles). I've heard the 4.19A D23 might be a bad tune. So I'm downloading the POD upgrade and will reinstall the Smarty and see what happens. I pick the truck up from the dealer tomorrow and will get the Smarty in by early next week. We'll see how it does.

 

mine does the same thing, local shop said it could be throttle postion senor low voltage? i looked up the code and thats what it said

 

What's the code? I'm real interested cuz I'm pretty certain that's my problem due to the conditions under which the lamp lights. Any idea what a new one costs? I haven't had it happen for a while. I think temperature plays a part too since it only seems to do it when it's cold.

 

I still have yet to get under my hood to figure it out. Last weekend I loaned my truck to a buddy of mine and the same damn thing happened to him. Hopefully soon I'll put the GH delete in and hopefully it'll quit. If not im doing injectors in it sooner or later anyway. We will see what happens. Luckily mine will turn off on its own and doesn't pop up very often but when it does I have no acceleration and the truck feels like I could get more torque pushing it. We will see what happens I'll keep you guys posted and keep flowing in with feedback it's a tremendous help.

 

Did anybody figure this out? It happened to me randomly coming on with ten dings loss of power them after a while it would go off. This Was ongoing for about a month now the light comes on when i start the truck and never turns off until the truck is turned off. It all started before i got my smarty all injectors tested good

 

I haven't been able to figure it out yet. Mine stopped doing it when the weather got warmer this past spring. It has started doing it again since the weather cooled off. I really don't understand how all the conditions coincide for this to happen. It has to be cold enough outside for the truck to want the grid heater, I have to be driving up slight grade with little throttle applied but in a constant possition and the light will almost always come on. It will do it with cruise control on too. I don't loose power and if I go to WOT when the light comes on the truck acts normal. Currently this is more annoying then anything but I would really like to know what the problem is or if the truck is trying to tell me something is really wrong. The Smarty doesn't seem to have any impact since it was doing this before I bought the box.

 

This glitch must have a mind of it's own. Mine has NOT done it since the weather cooled. The WTS light would come on and chime 10 times. No loss of power, and a short time later the light goes out. It may do it again a few miles down the road, or not. It seems it only does it under a load, towing or interstate speeds, with the coolant temp above 200. It started doing this after the last dealer flash update. There were no codes, and the dealer said it was being caused by the Banks Economind Tuner.....OF COURSE.
The best solution may be to find that that little chimer and introduce it to my ball peen hammer.

 

the update to ecm in latest revision it monitors return fuel rate from injectors so when injectors start getting bad it puts truck in limp mode reduse power. The grid heater light is the code when it go into limp mode doing grid heater delete will not help.

 

That is all well and good but what about the lack of limp mode? There are lots of guys experiencing the WTS lamp without the truck going into limp.

 

Im still driving my truck like a sixteen year old kid wide open. Mine never has a limp mode and as soon as this started i pulled all of my injectors and took them to ddp. All injectors were well within the parameters .

 

willy What did that cost? I'm thinking about doing that as a precaution and I've been wanting to take a trip up to DDP to check them out. I hear good things.

 

Open sesame

 

I had the same problem, WTS light and 10 dings. Sometimes I would get a CEL light too. I found a loose injector tube (#6) to be the culprit. Easy fix!

 

So as an update to this, I put up with the problem for almost 3 years and it progressively got worse to where I started getting a dead pedal when the WTS light came on and the trans was locked out in OD. If I went WOT the trans would downshift and I'd get power back but that probably wasn't good for it. It started happening pretty reliably on the highway while just using maintenance throttle for speed.

I can't remember the soft code it would throw. I think it was P0223 which I was never able to find a description for. The Smarty would read it but the CEL would not come on.

Anyway, I installed a set of reman'd injectors in July 2014 and the issue stopped. Since it was summer time I didn't expect the issue and had to wait until fall for the temps to drop. The issue never presented itself BUT I had a bunch of new issues caused by the injectors.

Last Oct one of the reman'd injectors failed hard (after only ~6000 miles) and I ended up installing a set of +90hp DDP units. I have not had the issue since.

 

I have a 2004 Dodge ram 2500 and I had the same problem with grid heater light coming on while driving. I 1st started with replacing my injectors after 220 K miles That didn't fix the problem but I also had a code P1223 And after researching it everything came down to replacing the (FCA) fuel controlled actuator. Which is on the back side of the injector pump, And that fixed my problem

 

Why would you quote your own post?

 

I dont know what happened 😂

 

I haven't had that truck going on 4 years now. I solved my issue with injectors. I never got a CEL. I just read it with the Smarty Jr I had on the truck.

A few posts up the fella said he solved it with an FCA but he had a different engine code.

Since you replaced your injectors recently, you might have an FCA issue.

Would be helpful if you posted your exact codes.