Nut is 1 15/16th and it is torqued to WTF? specs at the factory. Use 3/4 drive stuff wihtour adaptors for removal. My impact wouldn't touch it so I used a 3" 3/4 inch drive breaker bar with another 4 foot of pipe over that as an extension. I ended up standing on it and I still had to jump up and down to get it to pop.

I believe the spec is 263 ft/lbs to re-torque. I dont have a 3/4" torque wrench and my 1/2 inch doesn't go that high. So I just reversed the removal method.

So that put it to German DIN spec of "gooten tight"

 

I'm pretty sure its 1 15/16 but i can double check my most beat up 3/4 drive socket. I know for sure the torque is 265 ft lbs.

 

Ive also got all the needed tools if you would like to borrow them.

 

Its a 44mm, but I used a 1 3/4" socket on it. If you have a helper, what I found works really well is to take and have one guy stand on the breaker bar with cheater like skyd ram said, then take one 3lb sledge and sit it on the side of the socket, and take another hammer and give the other hammer a good smack. The only reason for the first hammer is to keep yourself from hitting the lugs. That is about the only thing that actually broke mine free. We tried both of us standing on the cheater and jumping on it, and it still didn't free.

Whoever is standing on the cheater, have them watch out when it drops... it will catch you off guard :w:

 

wow, I would have never thought it was going to be that tight...I might just have to put the socket and cheater bar on the hub and drive the truck forward/rearward to crack that loose

 

Ive never had one that the 3/4 impact or ratchet couldn't get off alone, shouldn't need to do that.

 

I have a 3ft cheater bar that I made and slipped it onto my 3/4 drive socket wrench. I didn't have to stand on it, but it did take a good hard pull.

My 1/2 drive torque wrench didn't go to 250 so I just tightened it way down with my cheater bar again.

 

I am Sure it is 1 11/16 socket

 

you need to check your socket buddy I took that one from work thinking it was the right size and it was just a hair to small even after I buzzed the rust off the nut. Oh well, autozone had the right one so I just added another socket to my collection

While wire wheeling that cocksucker off after the hub came out I got a wire through my lip that smarted, good thing I had my safety glasses on.

 

Mine was 1 11/16 and I remember the torque about 263 ft lb. My 1/2 only went to 250, but I marked the nut and axle w/nail polish. Went to 250 then and xtra grunt with the cheater bar and the lines rematched perfect. I used my floor jack and the cheater bar to brake the nut loose. I read about the driving thing if you had 2 people.

 

I ended up getting an 1 3/4" from autozone last night. My truck is an early 03, and I know chrysler did some axle swapping on that year I almost wonder if it isn't a different setup?

 

1 3/4 is what I used too. Early 03 also.

 

Did you get it done?

 

wrapped up the one side today, you need the 23 pc. ball joint set from Autozone not the cheapy 9 piece, if you get so inclined. I tried to hammer out the ball joints and it just laughed at me. Same thing with the 4x4 u-joints they just laugh when you try and hammer them apart.

 

3/4 drive-43mm 6-point impact fits perfectly

As title says

 

There is a recent thread in the powertrain section detailing the complete teardown and reassembly. It has photos of every step.

 

it a 43 mm but i just used a 1 11/16 and it works fine.

 

This thread is almost 4 years old. I'm sure he figured it out lol

Have a good one!



Sent from AutoGuide.com App