[dgreenbluet]

I would say first off clean your battery clamps good and make sure they are tight. Then there is a small ground wire next to the battery on the radiator support, clean them.

Sounds like you regulator in the ECM for the alternator might be going bad, if cleaning the cables doesn't help then it could possible be that. Do not buy a new alternator thinking it will fix it with out having it tested first. 90% of the time it's good and your regulator in the ECM is bad. So you either get a new or rebuilt ECM or put a external regulator on.

alternator and ecm are both new, those connections look really clean but i'll pull them and make sure

is there any way it could be linked to the TPS, or a potentiometer thats hooked up to by-pass the TPS? one of these connections came loose earlier in the day and i lost overdrive and my speedo while the wire was loose

 

[dgreenbluet]

I'd take a close look around the guages and under the dash for a loose connection or pinched wire. I know the older bulkhead connectors werent very good about keeping tight connections, not sure on the newer stuff. Generally speaking if a problem arises after some recent event, the problem is related to that event.

I'm thinking you are right. I pulled the dash again to check the connections on the voltage gauge and I learned not to pull or install the gauge while the truck is on cuz it's completely in-op now. Also I just lost my speedo, cruise, odometer, and overdrive. Gonna replace the voltage gauge first and then re-access.


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[dgreenbluet]

If you just lost those things it sounds like your CPS, check the air gap it should be .050.

Here's how to test the CPS http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/89-93-tech-articles/155693-testing-crank-position-sensor.html .

This sounds like my issue but, can you tell me where to locate my CPS??? i did a search but cant come up with much of its location. And of course its not in my Chilton Thanks!

 

[dgreenbluet]

and you think this would fix....no speedo, odo, cruise, O/D, or wait to start light?

 

[dgreenbluet]

I know that stuff and the charging won't work if the CPS is bad or the air gap isn't adjusted right.

so i adjusted the air gap and checked the sensor with the ignition on but the engine off and got a reading of .13volts both times i checked it. how am i supposed to tell when the sensor is supposed to read 5volts? the power and ground are good to it.

another weird thing just happened too. when i got in to start it to hopefully move the crank to get a reading of 5 volts i had dash lights. turned the engine off and checked the sensor then started it back up to pull out of the garage for the night and i had no dash lights behind the cluster. had lights behind the a/c and heater controls. what the hell would cause those to just stop working?

also i have no check engine light and no wait to start light...no cruise, no speedo, no odo...looks like things keep getting worse!

 

[dgreenbluet]

Was it on the right spot on the balancer, there is a cut out on the balancer and that is where you will get your 5 volts.

I see the gap now, and i doubt it was lined up with that. I dont think i can get it lined up with that gap without taking the radiator fan out. unless you have a way that doesnt involve starting and shuting it off a hundred times? btw thanks for the help

 

[dgreenbluet]

Not to say the cps didn't go bad in the meantime but, each time he fools with the cluster the problem gets worse. The trouble is almost certainly behind the cluster or below. Check the steering column wiring, fuse block wiring, headlite switch wiring etc. Sounds like something has come loose. Possibly you shorted something and blew a fuse link.

I did blow a fuse and found that the big round plug on the back of the gauges has a loose connection in it. Now everything works as it should except for the cruise control. It did work before and that's the fuse that blew. Put a new fuse in and fixed the plug and now no cruise. Not a huge deal.


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