More Information for GPD 2611234

Here is the 26 row Ford 6.0L AT diesel cooler. These coolers are 1.25 inches in depth.
The cross bar gets in the way of putting in the 31 row Ford cooler.
Finding the 26 row cooler might not be easy. Since on a Ford the 31 row cooler fits their trucks, people just want the cooler with the most rows.
Ford cooler has to be installed with hose fitting point up, and it will sit on the cross bar.

 

I'd rather put the coolers in parallel to cut down resistance.

 

Thought about that too, but also slowing down oil flow helps cool the fluid more.
I doint think it will slow it very much more than a single cooler.
It is just easier to connect in series.
I will cut and bubble flare the aluminum tubing so as to hold onto the hose better.

 

here are various FORD 6.0 trans coolers
One on left is 31 row, middle is 26 row, and right is FORD stock 7.3 cooler, they are 1.25 inch thick.
Course if you were going to use one would be 26 row cooler with brackets removed

 

I got such a good price on the stock cooler, $100 off regular price, I thought it would be an interesting thing to try. Otherwise would have gone with a larger singe cooler. My old cooler has issues, so was not planning on using it by itself.
This was an Amazon warehouse deal, so was a returned new item.

 

came in and is in great shape for $40
I decided rather than force 1/2 hose over 1/2 inch tubing to instead get 1/2 flare brass fittings, flare nuts to 3/8 female NPT and buy 1/2 inch hose barbs. Simply single flare the cut off end of the aluminum tubing. So this delays the project for another week.

 

I found my tans fluid cooler was bypassed completely. So I got some used hard lines and the missing plumbing to hook it back up. I even got a dorman air cooler from the lady that sold me the lines.
Here is one of the posts I made on it: The dorman fins are stupid thin compared to the stock one and it doesn't actually have a thermostat in it. Its smoke and mirrors man. Unless you cut into it, I bet money the bypass tube on the dorman is bologna too.
Anyhow
I had a high temp running trans and needed to keep it cooler even just city driving around was staying 200-220. I refused to believe that that was "normal". Seems destructive to the fluid in short time.
You may want to just put everything back the way it was and simply put in the dynamic trans thermostat air cooler delete plug. For $25 why not? Cooler Thermostat Delete
My temps never see 180 now even in July-August towing up hill. My normal temps Spring/Fall are 100-140*. That's it.
I don't live somewhere where its stupid cold and the trans needs to warm up a bit but I figure having the fluid cooler can help there.
For the stock inlets and outlets on the air cooler, I did similar to what you were saying and just cut the bell fittings off the hoses and flared the air cooler ends. No leaks if you do it just right.
I just looked outside. I got the dorman if you want me to cut it in half. I think the temp drops people are gaining are simply because the bypass thermostat section is "faked" and all the coolant always runs through the fins. Which is the same outcome as using the $25 dynamic plug and calling it a day.

 

I only say that because I too was going to go down the route of changing the cooler and doing mishimoto or the Ford like you but putting the fluid cooler back into the plumbing circuit and putting in the Dynamic thermostat delete worked for me - like immensely. This isn't some 20* drop. Its almost a 100* drop compared to before. Compared to costs and time, I'd take the less costly route and gain more.
2cents

 

I am getting rid of the coolant water to oil heat exchanger as it does fail and the truck is now 16 years old, and when it fails it costs you thousands for a new transmission when coolant mixes into trans fluid. So who knows if or when it fails, I am being proactive.
So to make up the cooling loss, a bigger air to oil trans cooler is needed, especially if your towing.
Which is why the idea of putting the Dorman next to the OEM cooler in series.
I would have preferred the Ford 6.0 diesel 26 row cooler, but Amazon cheated me out of the promised sale. So the Dorman at $40 idea became of interest to me. Not saying anyone should do what I am doing, cause the price is just ridiculous to pay full retail of $140 for it. Better to get the Ford 26 row cooler from Rock Auto. Who knows if you even can anymore, everyone with a Ford wants the bigger 31 row cooler and that wont fit the Ram truck.

So even though they are going on in series, they are 'single pass' stacked plate type coolers so actually in parallel within the cooler itself. This Dorman does have a thermostat in the same place as the OEM cooler. I am going to block the bypass on the OEM cooler as it's internal thermostat is stuck. You can either flip around the thermostat, or put in a bolt with a rubber oring. All you need to do is block fluid flow through the top bypass tube. I know mine is stuck in bypass cause the bypass tube gets super hot and the cooler stays cool.

 

16 years. I hear ya.
Made in the USA though
If your solution is just as effective as this dollar per dollar, deal.
When I get a chance I’m going to compare part numbers on the dorman to what you got.

 

If you are also removing the heat exchanger, and want to get the maximum cooling capacity. It seems that it would not be too hard to take the thermostats out of the coolers and run a thermostat controlled electric fan with the coolers under the truck, similar to what many first gens had. This way you are getting cooler air than in the front stack and still have some tempreature control.

For those looking to source a lower cost cooler, universal a/c condensers can be had for low cost and large sizes.

 

Sure I thought about electric fans under truck. It is not as good cooling as the air in front of the truck which is also being forced over the coolers at great speed for free, plus there already is that big engine fan up front doing that job sucking at the air. These electric fan under truck coolers are supplemental, not primary coolers. And I dont want a noisy fan under the truck which I also wonder how long it can last. One thing I dont want is hearing the fan running, I imagine it might be noisy or vibrate and transmit noise and may run after engine is off. The faster the air flows past the front coolers, the less hot that air can get to be used by the next cooler in line behind it, so when you need the most oil cooling as in when towing, your going to get that as the truck is rolling down the road. And some people are paying $400 for under truck electric coolers, I have seen the links. I think my idea is the cheapest way to go so far.

 

Finally got time to work on this idea, and it is working out good.
I was able to re-bend the aluminum tubing on both trans coolers so as to function logically.
I also pulled out the thermostat in the old cooler and flipped it around, the spring now pushes it closed all the time.
To get it out, removed circlip, then banged down the plastic plug, used a knife to scrape off the inside corrosion or sealer, it refused to pop up. Took my propane torch and heated the area and it popped out with great force. Greased it lightly, put it back in and sealed over top with permatex.

The click together fittings were hopelessly coroded, I ended up cutting them off the OEM trans cooler.
The trans coolers now have all their new brass fittings. It is a simple flare.
The OEM cooler sits in the same position, the return tube is bent up and over the top

The Dorman cooler is flipped upside down, and tubes rebent to face towards the other OEM cooler fittings.
I rebent the bracket and even the original top bolts can hold it on.

Dorman cooler with its new hose ends

The intercooler fits perfectly with the Dorman sitting in between.

 

Showing the fluid in barb I reused the rubber chafe preventer. I glued it in with Permatex, so the wire is temp.

 

I took out the inner fender and the washer reservoir. I reshaped the outgoing line from trans, and will connect a rubber hose on that. The return line to trans is as OEM. The flare nuts on the heat exchanger were rusted together, I ended up cutting the tubing with a sawzall.
And I cut the outgoing tubing where it is attached to the block, crazy, no way I could reach in to undue that plastic holder, there is no room to work in there. So the plastic 2 tube holder only holds the return line now.

To drop the washer reservoir, it comes out the bottom. Pulled the pump and drained fluid, then disconnect the level sensor. Those locking red tab electrical connectors always give me trouble, easier to just pull off the washer pump. 2 bolts hold it on.

 

more progress.
Installed in place, still left is the input line from trans, I plan to keep the check ball in the system. Return line connects to existing cut off return line using a hose splice. I picked a PEX 1/2 splicer as 2 together saved me 6$. Yes a hose barb fits tighter, but I figure if the clamp breaks, either one will come apart. No reason something of about the same amount of brass and style should cost almost $5 versus $1.70 for PEX splicer. They really price gouge this.
If It leaks easy to redo. Leaks will show up right away.

 

I decided NOT to reuse the rebent tube that runs from Trans to heat exchanger, it was too floppy and not really the right shape.

Did you know if you remove the rubber hose and OEM metal crimp clamp, there is a perfectly suitable hose barb you can put a hose on? So that is what I did
And I made another to connect to the short check valve hose.

Here it is, coolers connection to the trans lines. I ran a rubber hose all the way back to the trans=, no more metal line for the pressure line.

At the trans output cooler line, the rubber hose runs to the check valve and it lays along the frame.

And here is the ugly problematic heat exchanger. For now will leave the water lines connected. They were rusty, I put on some primer.
The OEM fuel filter cannister and lower fuel line also had corrosion, wire brushed and sprayed paint, but honestly it ought to be removed and done better.

Will be running tomorrow, AFAIK, thank God. I dropped one of the boost tube clamp nuts, so got to go looking, like take off the tire, it fell past the shock tower. Going to grease the front end, and change the trans fluid-filter next week.

 

Success! IT is together and working. The OEM cooler bypass tube is no longer broiling hot, It is just cool. The input line to the OEM cooler feels normally warm. It used to feel hot enough it would burn you
The Dorman cooler is not hot, maybe ambient air temp. Engine fully warmed up.
My thinking is the new Dorman cooler will stay in bypass mode most of the time unless towing. I think my trans fluid was cooking hot before with a defective oem cooler and just the heat exchanger for cooling -heating the fluid, mostly heating it. In 6000 miles it has gone from red to brown. So I am changing fluid next week. Ordered a case, 12 quarts from walmart of mopar atf+4

 

I don't have a gauge for trans temp yet. But it is much less warm now. Air is 80 degrees out, 5 people driving back from ft Monroe beach. Get home and by hand feel around, pan is only warm, maybe 120 in my estimation. So feels much cooler than it did. Very happy with it. No trouble leaving hand on pan

 

Not to be a downer on your excellent work but without before and after data, (ie no gauges), you are just guessing.

Just like your other threads, without gauges, you have no idea of before and after improvement or detriment.
The info and pics on this thread are excellent but it falls short with no before and after quantifiable data.
ie. before and after transmission temperatures.

It's just like the guys who bolt a bunch of go fast parts on their cars or trucks and the vehicle "feels" so much faster.
Then once they run the vehicle down a dragstrip or on a chassis dyno they are disappointed that all their new parts did nothing.

IMO, gauges would help your truck efforts greatly.

 

^ 100%

Not to be a downer on your excellent work but without before and after data, (ie no gauges), you are just guessing.

Im still trying to figure out why someone would do this? The solution to a overheating trans is not adding more coolers. Seems like a lot of unnecessary leak points. The irony of killing a trans form a fluid blowout on stuff you aded to save the trans.

 

what is the typical cooler tube pressure psi on 48re transmission ? | Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum (cumminsforum.com)

here is my spin on trans filter thread, glad I did this too. I was very encouraged after pulling the pan to see how good shape my trans is in.

 

ugh.. so many things to say... here comes a rant, sorry

First off, the exchanger leaking is extremely rare and when it does my money is on improper maintenance, ie; old dirty coolant, letting the engine excessively overheat, air in the system. Removing the exchange is a solution to a problem that doesn't exist and creating new problems, especially when doting on a 48/47re auto. Take the forum board doom and gloom with a grain of salt.


Why is the Exchange good?

First it brings the trans fluid up to proper temp faster. The Engine heats up pretty quick, and can be warmed by idling, where the trans cannot. The input temps of the coolant going into the exchange are around 120-130 (post radiator fluid) Without the exchange I have seen the trans fluid never get above 130* on long tows (higher speeds, locked converter) IIRC the fluid/trans is designed to run above 140. Theres a reason you measure fluid when the truck is warm.

Second, as the trans fluid rises above the coolant temp, the exchange is now "cooling" the trans fluid back to its own temperature. fluid to fluid heat transfer is WAY more efficient that fluid to air. The exchange does a particularly good job controlling the fast temp spikes from running hard with the converter unlocked until you get up to speed and it locks. The exchange effectively keeps your trans in the ideal 140-210 range.

With the exchange on the massive heat spikes from running unlocked are controlled better. They spike slower, hold temperatures down longer. Without it, I don't care how many air coolers you have the spikes rise faster and peak higher. But you wont know that until you hook a trailer up and tow with it for a while.


Now, if the converter is slipping, or the clutches are going out, there is little to nothing you can actually do to control that heat but get a rebuild.


But wait... you're doing all this before ever towing with it? and without gauges to see if where you are at in the beginning? Talk about a solution to a problem that doesn't exist...

 

ugh.. so many things to say... here comes a rant, sorry

First off, the exchanger leaking is extremely rare and when it does my money is on improper maintenance, ie; old dirty coolant, letting the engine excessively overheat, air in the system. Removing the exchange is a solution to a problem that doesn't exist and creating new problems, especially when doting on a 48/47re auto. Take the forum board doom and gloom with a grain of salt.


Why is the Exchange good?

First it brings the trans fluid up to proper temp faster. The Engine heats up pretty quick, and can be warmed by idling, where the trans cannot. The input temps of the coolant going into the exchange are around 120-130 (post radiator fluid) Without the exchange I have seen the trans fluid never get above 130* on long tows (higher speeds, locked converter) IIRC the fluid/trans is designed to run above 140. Theres a reason you measure fluid when the truck is warm.

Second, as the trans fluid rises above the coolant temp, the exchange is now "cooling" the trans fluid back to its own temperature. fluid to fluid heat transfer is WAY more efficient that fluid to air. The exchange does a particularly good job controlling the fast temp spikes from running hard with the converter unlocked until you get up to speed and it locks. The exchange effectively keeps your trans in the ideal 140-210 range.

With the exchange on the massive heat spikes from running unlocked are controlled better. They spike slower, hold temperatures down longer. Without it, I don't care how many air coolers you have the spikes rise faster and peak higher. But you wont know that until you hook a trailer up and tow with it for a while.


Now, if the converter is slipping, or the clutches are going out, there is little to nothing you can actually do to control that heat but get a rebuild.


But wait... you're doing all this before ever towing with it? and without gauges to see if where you are at in the beginning? Talk about a solution to a problem that doesn't exist...

In your opinion!
A solution to a problem that does not exist....
AND you forget the history of other Ram owners experiences!
I already read plenty of other people wo documented by whatever you want to call it, lowered Trans temps by eliminating the torque converter heat exchanger and using better coolers up front. And also there are plenty enough on here who have had their trans blow up due to that heat exchanger failing.
AND one way I can know it is running cooler, the Dorman cooler which has a thermostat, has stayed in bypass mode, has yet to have gotten it's main cooler hot, only the Dorman bypass tube is getting hot.

So you bet, all this is worthwhile, and it is my thread, with my experiences that I was willing to share.

Not going to be a problem with fluid temp, it still warms up plenty enough. Not a problem running at 130 to 140 either.

You know work is done in stages, not just when absolutely needed.

 

considering how many of these trucks are out here running around a hundred or so complaints on the forums over the years about them leaking is not very many. Can't say I have seen all that many with an exchanger that killed the trans. I have seen a ton of people referring to the danger, but not that many actually issues. Alot more check valves clogging up for sure. I think the exchanger danger a bit over sensationalized myself.

Your right, lower trans temps are absolutely observed removing the heat exchanger. Sadly, that's often what people focus on. Personally, I prefer my trans to run 170-220 based on driving conditions vs 100-250. From my experience it was a ton easier to keep below 220 with the exchange that without. Not only that, when it did get up to 220 it went down a lot faster with the exchange in place. Exchanger off, it peaked higher and stayed up longer. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the trans running 170-190 all the time. That is not hot.