I would say put a 47rh in it you'd be alot happier with the result.

 

You recommend finding one at a junkyard? 47 RH is 2nd gen if I remember correctly? I know they have a lockup converter if I remember correctly. Drive shafts and transfer case should remain the same if I'm not mistaken. I never thought of putting a 47RH in there... Wonder what they go for, just afraid it won't be any more reliable than the current setup.

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

 

Did that thing get resurrected from the Titanic?! MERCY

 

It is a really good boat anchor as it stands lol

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

 

Nothing wrong with putting in a decent higher efficiency/slightly lower stall converter, turning up the line pressure, and using a GPZ rebuild kit, at the power levels you're after with the A518.

No driveshafts to alter, no wiring to add/alter, keep your first gen starter/adapter plate, no support to extend/notch, and the non lockup converter is cheaper; no lockup clutch to wear out to boot.

 

Nothing wrong with putting in a decent higher efficiency/slightly lower stall converter, turning up the line pressure, and using a GPZ rebuild kit, at the power levels you're after with the A518.



No driveshafts to alter, no wiring to add/alter, keep your first gen starter/adapter plate, no support to extend/notch, and the non lockup converter is cheaper; no lockup clutch to wear out to boot.

This is my thought. I'm going for a clean restoration look, and with the 47RH there will be some wiring and stuff I won't be a fan of. However, it may be worth it.

As for the GPZ clutches, in my Duramax I had been recommended Alto Red clutches. Are the GPZ clutches better? Worse?

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

 

I had a 727 in a gasser 87 D250 that the fluid looked like rusty chocolate milk....inside did not look like that though. I changed filter, fresh fluid and drove it...did several fluid/filter changes over the next year and was still going strong when I sold it. These 727's are tough trannies!

 

Ok, been looking around at options for the truck. Originally I had thought about rebuilding the auto on a budget, rebuilding it stronger, tossing in a 47RH, or cutting a hole and using my legs Flinstone style. My dream for the truck was a 5-speed swap but always considered that too expensive. With the way the trans looks now, it is looking to be a good option as well. The question I found someone about an hour away from me with a 2nd gen (SC/LB) V10 (should be same trans as Cummins?) with an NV4500 in it. I don't have photos of the trans itself, but I noticed it has an NP241 DHD transfer case in it. He wants $2000 (if I pull it) for everything from block to the rear axle (starter, adapter plate, flywheel, clutch, trans, transfer case, driveshafts, slave/master, shifters, and pedals). I know that the pedals will not drop in, but I have read the master will work with the 1st gen rod (oddly enough found one laying around). Obviously the trans mounts and such will need to be tweaked, however, the adapter plate and everything should be the same mounting if I am reading right. So questions:

1. Is there anything else I should grab when parting out the truck?

2. Should I use the NP241 or get an adapter for my auto NP205? I would like to keep stock transfer case shifter location if I can.

3. Anyone know a writeup or sticky on auto to nv4500 in 1st gen? Can't seem to find one.

 

I can tell you this much the transfer case drop is on the wrong side, 2nd Gen and up are a drivers side drop. The adapter and flywheel won't work either they have to be from a Cummins.

 

Looking at photos I noticed the drop was on the wrong side. Appears to have same bolt pattern as NP205 after a little googling so could use NP205. Now would need flywheel, clutch, adapter plate, and transfer case adapter... That 2k is starting to look bigger and bigger lol

 

NP205's...auto=23 spline, 5spd=29 spline. 47RH =29spline I believe.

 

I was reading that basically unless I have the stock 727 or 518 I will need a spline adapter. Advanced Adapters has them for about $240. Pricey, but may be easier than finding a transfer case.

Found a Getrag for pretty cheap that I am going to take a look at. With all the parts I have for it already I feel it may be a good option. Reading around people say as long as I don't tow in OD that they will hold up.

 

If your going to keep the 46rh you might want to look into upgrading the front planetary/intermediate shaft. Stock planetary carrier is aluminum and the splines wear, mine had a reaaallll sloppy interface when I did the unit. You can use a common (read not too expensive) 47rh int shaft and planetary gear set, much stronger than the alu stuff.

 

Thanks for the info! I will take a look and see if it has play, and also see pricing.

 

Just a heads up if you have the a518. ( 46RH ) with a non lockup converter the 47RH with a lockup converter will not fit. The lockup converter is about 1in thicker than the non lockup

 

It will fit just needs the 94-02 engine adapter plate

 

So looks like the OP doesn't want the "non standard non restoration look" of adding a single wire for lockup, but is OK with cutting an extra couple holes in the floorboard.

All the pros & cons offered in the responses here will boil down to price & availability, nothing less, nothing more.

 

All the pros & cons offered in the responses here will boil down to price & availability, nothing less, nothing more.

This is exactly why I put a 47rh in my truck. I wanted a 5-6 speed but cost and availability convinced me otherwise. So far I’m very happy but my truck doesn’t stay the same for long

 

Going to take a look at the heat exchanger this weekend. Was simply going to bypass it for the time being in case it is contaminating the tranny fluid. It looks like the coolant has one inlet/outlet by the alternator and another down by the oil filter. I plan to plug the coolant passages on the exchanger and run a bypass hose between the two coolant connections. This sound like a good method to y'all?

Haven't had hands on the truck over the last week, so I need to check the coolant for trans fluid as well. Going to try flushing the front mount transmission cooler and clean up as much as I can with the trans in the truck before tossing in a new filter and fluid and just see what the transmission does. I don't expect it to be fully functioning or roadworthy, but am hoping it is enough to get around the ranch for the time being until I decide on what direction I want to take for a rebuild or swap. There have been lots of good recommendations and points made, but I was getting a little too worked up lol. Decided to slow down and reassess my budget, options, and build plans.

 

Well bypassed the heat exchanger and cleaned up the transmission as best I could, tossed in a new pan filter and fluid and added about 7 quarts to get back to full. Truck moves and drives pretty well to be honest. Goes through all the gears and has enough bite to spin the tires in the dirt with just a bump of the throttle. It def leaves a bit to be desired as I think the TC is pretty loose. Something I noticed is when putting the trans in reverse it loads up then there is a buzzing coming from the transmission. Anyone heard of this issue before?

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

 

Update: it's more of a hydraulic whining tbag happens in every gear but is worse in reverse.

Found that after a bit of driving the transmission started slipping more and more as I would get in it. Seems like it's fluid starved eventhough it's topped up. Guessing the filter is clogged or the pump or tc are shot. Will keep everyone informed!

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

 

It's possible the filter could be plugged up as bad as it looked before. Without tearing it down it's pretty much impossible to get it really clean.

 

That's my guess, sound slowly got worse. Imagine the pump is trying to suck fluid and can't.

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

 

With bypassing the heat exchanger you need to add another trans cooler before you drive the truck much or tow anything

 

Might not need it soon enough, found a really good deal on Getrag w/transfer case. Going to see how it looks for the price.

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

 

Update: After a couple weeks of looking around I stumbled on a G360 with transfer case and parts in good shape for a good price. The seller has driveshafts, bell housing, and flywheel as well they are going to throw in. Driveshafts are for a Club Cab but I will take the yokes from the rear driveshaft and have one without a carrier bearing built for it.

Thanks for all the recommendations and advice on the subject. Took me a few weeks of thinking and looking until I found what I was looking for. Will update everyone on the swap when it's done!

 

Just as an update, found a good price on a Getrag 360 with transfer case and all the bits needed to install (minus rear driveshaft). Got it all installed and in the truck! Going to have to get the rear driveshaft made, but all seems well! Thanks for all the advice and suggestions, I am stoked to get this thing on the road!