This is getting interesting.

A forum member (Flopster) publishes fantastic write-ups of all his mods at CarboniteCummins - Articles

He has done a bunch of research and thinking along these lines. He has a 6.7 but as long as you're doing the bypass valve I don't think there is a diference. With the 5.9 you may be able to just block it off with a $5 shut off tap from Lowes. But with the 6.7 you need to keep the water flowing to the turbo so you need a bypass.

Flopster also notes that "most valves are vacuum operated and these trucks don’t have any vacuum source".

So what controls the valve you found? If vaccuum then where will you draw a vaccuum from?


Please keep us updated on how you progress. I think there is general interest in this mod as there have been several threads discussing it in the past.

 

I believe I can tap into the jake brake vacuum line to control the valve. I was going to just put one shut off valve on the supply side but I think I have decided to play it safe and just redirect(bypass the core) the flow.

 

I put a shut off valve on mine also (auto) and have no issues with trans temp

 

thats what my original plan was then I kept researching and a few posters were concerned with #5 and 6 cylinders getting too hot... got kinda skeptical of just blocking the flow after that. I guess I could call dodge and ask what they think.

Update: I called the local Dodge dealer and a mechanic there told me you need to completely bypass the heater core so the water can continue to flow... I think I will continue to figure out how to use the Ford Ranger 4 port valve.

 

what if i used a regulator similar to this one on a 12v switch at the dash to open and close the valve from the cab. I would tap in just before the regulator controlling the jacobs brake, or I could use a simple manual regulator(cheaper)to control the vacuum.

BRAND NEW FORD OEM EGR VACUUM REGULATOR CONTROL #F63Z-9J459-AA | eBay

 

Poke around in the forums and you will see that a LOT has been written on this bypass. It's an older thread but was very detailed.

 

Thanks for the reply... I have been searching alot on the forum, I have yet to find someone with a Jacobs Exhaust brake plumb something similiar, I was hoping someone who fab'ed a simiar design would reply to my thread. If not guess I'll do some trial and error.

 

What is the temp of your a/c output air?

Even in 100° temps I get COLD air out of my 05, and have never thought I needed colder.

 

peak afternoon when temps are >90° my thermometer reads around 47-48°, it will eventually get a little colder but it takes a while. The system is fully charged. Im hoping this mod will get it colder faster. I think I have my plan figured out.

 

Why not just use manual shut off valves to bypass it?
All it would take is couple ball valves and maybe a barbed T fitting or two and some hose clamps.

Even though i've never seen a temp problem i've always been kind of nervous just shutting the flow off. I'm going to look at it this weekend and see where I can tap back in to do a true bypass. But im going to just use some ball valves.

AH64ID
Me personally, when it gets over 100* my a/c takes FOREVER to get down to 54*.
With the heater core shut off I get 42* all day and in a matter of minutes

 

The purpose is so I can control from in the cab at not much more cost than the 3 ball valves and fittings it takes to do a manual bypass. I have a vacuum pump I might as well take advantage of it. Total cost should come in around 60.00 give or take a couple $$.

 

I just removed my ball valve last week, I can't find one that will last more tha a year. The heat from the coolant and exhaust cooks the seals and they start pissing out of the middle lever seal. It worked great for reducing the A/C temp, but you also have ZERO climate control. You have all A/C that you can not turn the temp up, you can turn you climate control all the way to hot and still blow 42*. Until i can find a reliable ball valve that wont leave possibly stranded in BFE I will deal with the A/C

 

Has anyone thought of using one of those double shutoffs used behind washing machines? One lever throw opens/closes 2 pipes. It is intended to open/close both the hot and cold water pipes to the washing machine. I presume it will tolerate the heat since hot water pipes can be 150F or so.

Really what you want is one opening and one closing at the same time but I haven't seen anything that does that.


OTOH, if you had a T so the water could flow through the heater core or bypass it and you just put a single ball valve on the pipe after it then closing it would force all water through the bypass and opening it would allow water through the heater core and the bypass....would that provide enough heat in winter?

 

Here is an industrial house to get good ball valves from instead of the cheap crap from Home Depot.

McMaster-Carr for 3-way valves. This style incorporates the "T" into the body and brings coolnat in the "A" port and then selectively passes it out through B or C. B would pass straight through for winter usage. C would divert it to the return line (you would need another "T" in the line) and bypass the heater core.

McMaster-Carr for 2-way valves.

All are temperature rated to 400 degrees plus.

 

ok I purchased a 96' Ford Ranger 4 port heater core bypass valve, 4 new hose clamps, Vacuum T fitting, 2' of 1/8 vacuum hose and 2' of 5/8 heater hose for 34.00 at Oreillys. Install went pretty easy, currently I have tapped directly into the vacuum pump supply line so the valve is closed when my truck is running, when I get a little more time I will plumb in the egr vacuum control valve and probably have it wired to close the valve when the recirc or a/c button is depressed. I gave it a test run to today...although it wasnt super hot I did see the thermometer drop to 37° (never got this cold before)and it got there much faster than normal, I'd say I probably gained close to 5° drop in temp. :thumbsup: