I doubt you'll hit 60psi without a fuel tap and only 100 stix. You wont "need" extra fuel for a stock/whatever twin set, it can just handle more.

 

I'm trying to put the funds together to get a quad 4k with a pv2.


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Springs are needed, 7x.010-.012 seem to be the happy medium for twins.

 

I'm doing the 3rd gen head gasket and head studs next weekend. Probably try and do the springs at the same time.


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I'm not to sure about going with the 3rd gen head gasket. I'd go with a Cummins 24v VP stock hdgskt or a .010" 12v modified hdgskt.

 

The stock gasket from the cummins shop here is a fiber gasket and the 3rd gen is a metal/steel


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stock 24 gasket is a single layer w/steel rings around the cylinders. The CR uses an MLS which would need to be modded slightly to work, and offers only marginally better sealing. Just be sure everything is dead flat and use some copper spray and let the new gasket bed in, do a couple re-torques before you push it, no matter what gasket you use.

 

Is your stock gasket blown right now?
If it isnt, i'd leave it alone. Just do studs and call it good for now.
Some 7x10's (150) and a wire tap box with those compounds will run well with room to grow and be nice and cool on the top end. Valve springs should go in too.

What are your over all goals and uses for the truck?

 

Gasket is still in good condition as far as i know not leaking or causing any problems. I just figured that if i was going to go into it. I would just replace it. The truck has the 53 block with 200k on it and all factory. Really thinking about it, the only reason for pulling the head was if I had to do springs.

 

You don't have to pull the head to do springs. Just sayin.

 

I'm not familiar with this process....:confused013:

 

Cyl 1&6 @ TDC, replace springs @ Cyl 1&6; Cyl 2&5, and finally 3&4.

 

You should have fun on number 6.

 

with #6 tucked under the firewall like it is I can see that being a lot of fun...

 

Keep a magnet handy, I think it would be a good idea to do at least a cylinder or two before you tackle #6.

 

yeah definitely doing a couple before trying to have the fun of #6

its not that bad to swap spring on the truck. and you do not want to use a cr gasket on your truck. the cooling jackets will not all line up.

After looking at the shop the gaskets are just upgraded steel 24v VP. I think they are .010 not 100% sure on that yet.

 

its not that bad to swap spring on the truck. and you do not want to use a cr gasket on your truck. the cooling jackets will not all line up.

 

I have the same twin setup and had to fire ring the heads (previous owner had to ) after blowing the head gasket 3 times. you'll make almost 70 lbs.
I should also note that mine is on a 12 valve, so I don't know if that matters…just thought I would throw that out there, ATS did all the work, 300 hp injectors also...

 

12v and 300hp injectors, big difference.

 

ha! like I said, don't know. Still new to diesels when it come to the mechanicals.
Should be fun when he gets it all worked out.

 

Yea leave your gasket alone. Head studs and torque them down proper. Valve springs are right under the valve cover. Not saying everyone is like this, but I push 65 lbs boost every time I race and never had the head off.

 

To use the MLS gasket properly the surface finish has to be correct also. In this case it must be ultra flat and smooth, not textured as most of the VP heads are. The RA must be around 25 I believe.

 

Ok studs are in without removing the head arty018: Just curious about the torque specs though. I called ARP and they said torque them all down in sequence to #125ft-lb then back them off one at a time and retorque them to #125ft-lb in sequence 3 more times. They also told me that there was no need to run the engine and bring it up to temp between torquing the bolts... :confused013:

 

Okay, do this, torque them to 125# using ARP Ultra Torque Lube, nothing else, then start the truck and shut if off after the t-stat opens, let it FULLY COOL, go back to #1 stud in center and back off the nut all the way, re-lube the stud/washer/nut, retorque to 125#, do the rest in Cummins torque sequence just like when you do the initial torqueing, after a couple heat cycles(warm-up+cool-down=1 heat cycle) retorque just like explained in the beginning of my post.

 

Ok so I didn't follow that. I followed the specs that ARP gave me. Install stud hand tight with the ARP lube then and torqued to #125 and followed the normal torque sequence for all 26 bolts. Then went back and loosened #1 all the way off and started the sequence all over again with all 26 bolts loosening each one then re-torquing each one for a total of 4 times like they recommended. :confused013: hopefully i didn't screw anything up but that's what they recommended...

 

do you have pictures of this finished set up? thinking about doing the same twins to mine.

 

You all say to use the factory head gasket? I could be completely wrong here, but I thought the factory head gasket was only good to around 45psi. If I'm wrong, then what was I reading? I'm just curious here, as I would one day like to do twins.

 

Stock gasket/stock bolts=stock-35psi sustained
Stock gasket/ARP 2000's=stock-~50psi sustained

All IMO obviously but I have researched a ton on the subject.

 

do you know what type of psi fire rings can hold?

 

Ok. So the studs are a weaker point than the gasket. With his twin setup, won't that push at least 60psi? After that you should fire ring it or what?

 

Ok. So the studs are a weaker point than the gasketstock headbolts, yes. With his twin setup, won't that push at least 60psidepending on the twin setup/injectors/and tuning it can be less, so you could be totally fine with a fresh gasket and head studs? After that you should fire ring it or whatO-rings when exceeding ~55-60psi unless going with ARP 625's, IMO?

Answers in red.

 

Well I'd say o-rings are good up to 70-75psi sustained and bursts up to 90psi in a well tuned setup so if you are doing a competition only truck that will hold higher than 70psi sustained I would go fire-rings.

 

fire rings require a special cut head gasket, and are not generally used for a street truck and can fail and damage the engine.
stock gasket + :
425 Head studs and head bolts can hold well above 60psi but only if you torque properly to 125ftlbs.
extreme studs /bolts can hold more
625 studs can hold even more
adding Orings to block or head can add quite a bit of capacity and are safe for daily driving and many thousands of miles.
using a +10 or +20 gasket will lower compression slightly allowing even more boost to be compressed but will lessen low-end response, lower over-all efficiency and make starting harder.

There are specific factors that will cause trucks to live/fail with the same gasket and/or studs, such as miles, heat, timing, injectables, quality of machining, luck, ect.

In my own experience a stock head gasket with Oring'd head and ARP 425s held 90psi bursts often for over 3 years.
My new engine has +10 gasket, ARP625s, Orings, and will see 100+psi.
Note: I never work the truck hard before its up to temp and the Tstat is open. I also made sure the Orings were bedded-in properly with 3-4 retorques on them before the first WOT run.

 

how long would fire rings last on something that is a DD? i have read up about them and some say there alright to DD and other say there not....

 

I run ARP 2000 studs torqued to 135lbs/ft on a stock head gasket and hold 75psi.

No o-rings, no fire-rings (other than the stock head gasket fire-rings which are significantly thinner than what one would cut the head and block for)

Been running that setup for 4 years now, and the truck has been on the road for 3 of those 4 years. Did have a year of down time due to a busted transmission, but that was fixed years ago.

So it has had 2 years of 65psi, and 1 year of 75psi. Mind you I don't constantly run at 75psi, and there have been plenty of days it hasn't seen more than 55psi. Even when it does see those pressures, they are only short bursts for a few seconds or so...

Honestly: who drives pushing 75psi 100% of the time?!

Most of the time daily driving you probably average 5-15psi and have minor spikes when accelerating hard.