The actuator from genos claims no calibration is needed. As far as the the vin thing who knows. Should be 1500 or less installed

 

Not sure how that would work unless you were buying the turbo that was calibrated with the actuator but thank you for for response

 

Ramhunter18 thanks again for the info I looked up genos and you are right its a new upgrade actuator but it doesn't seem to be the fit I need

 

Ram Cummins City Diesel Electronic Turbo Actuator

A cost-effective solution to fixing the actuator: the creation of a new actuator and gear housing. You replace all the electronics, including the circuit board, motor, harness adapter and a new gear box. There is no calibration required and no complicated installation.

www.genosgarage.com

 

Thanks again ramhunter18 just one more question ( not a mechanic but not completely dumb either haha) but this should work on my oe but actuator because I read that it says "upgrade"

 

Here is another one by BD Diesel but will need calibration.

https://dudesdieselperformance.com/i-30533377-bd-diesel-turbo-actuator-he351-he300vg-ram-07-5-18-cummins.html

 

I would think so. I haven't personally used this one yet but I will ne the next time I need one. I would contact genos or maybe city diesel directly if possible and ask. You may want to remove your old one and make sure the arm moves freely on the turbo 1st tho

 

Ramhunter18 for sure I'm actually doing that today and then going from there. I will look into contacting Genos and see if they can answer this question 👍

 

You need to make sure the arm on the turbo moves easily. Then the one for your truck from Geno's will work. I have used it and it works well but the turbo can not have problems.
The calibration of the actuator is not Vin specific. What the calibration does is set the end limits for the stepper motor once it is installed on the turbo. This needs to be done so that the ecm knows what position the turbo is in to adjust boost on the motor.

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Cwendel thanks for the response that's the answer I was hoping for. I'm checking my turbo today so will find out off it's moving freely. I Also sent genos a message so I would expect the same answer from them. This would save me a ton of money. Love how people come together and help one another out on this forum!!!

 

Have you tried to find a low miles take off turbo? I sold mine recently for less than half the price of that actuator alone. Just another option to consider

 

Cacciatore looks like it's my turbo that's the problem so now I am looking into having to buy a new one. Have to research from where to purchase one

 

If you are looking to do a performance upgrade you might consider the BDScreamer.

 

TFarmer on here may have one soon

 

Tfarmer let mere know how soon and how much. Might be an option. Are you upgrading? Is that the reason for having one available?

 

Used Turbo Worth Anything?

I’m thinking about putting a BD screamer in my truck. I feel it’s a shame to send my perfectly working, 30K mile turbo in for a $700 core refund. Do the turbos and actuators have any worth if they are used but working, or am I best off just sending it in for a core refund?

www.cumminsforum.com

 

Search the web, I did see somewhere that someone has started to offer the center cassette for sale without the housings. It was much cheaper than the full rebuilt int with housings and actuator.

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What did you find with your turbo

 

The 2nd ship I took it to did the actuator was actually working but that the turbo was sticking a little past like 70%

 

Shop

 

Said not did Damn phone

 

Did they remove the actuator and it would not move by hand?

 

Correct they said it moved to one side freely but jammed going the other way. Of course I didn't get to witness this but have to take their word I guess. at best when engine is cold I get about 24psi after it warms up I can only get around 15psi. So I just guess it's a new turbo time need to start looking I don't want to upgrade I just want a drop in that will keep my vgt in tact and get back my engine brake. If you have any suggestions that you may have come across please feel free to let me know. I just want this behind me so I can move on and have 1 less thing to worry about

 

I just went through this whole process. Have ‘14 as well.

I bought a BD Screamer turbo around $2700. I do my own work but the shop that sold it to me and gave me a deal on some other stuff such as my delete and my EFI tuning so I had them do it they charged $500 installed.

You do not need a tuner or anything it is a drop in replacement for the stock but built a little bit better for efficiency and power, And comes with a brand new actuator is already calibrated etc.

It’s actually super simple to change turbos on these trucks if you want to save installation money.

No matter what brand you decide, I do recommend installing stover nuts on the studs.

 

Lots of choices these days. It seems everybody is now making replacement turbos.

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I also want to add get it done sooner rather than later because the EGT goes through the roof when that VGT is not working. My truck is a hotshot truck and I have a monitor as well and I was bouncing off of 1700° just doing 15 miles an hour up hills loaded @15 max boost.
Now its 1400+ 50-60 mph up mountain passes with 40’ shipping containers @31-38 psi

 

Ok will stop driving it and try to get the turbo ordered asap!

 

P003a is the main code, others are secondary. That’s what I had when my actuator died, and my truck behaved exactly like yours. I brought it to the dealer, spent 200 for diagnostic and they quoted several thousands for new turbo. Then I brought it to the second shop, guy said with this code that’s most likely the actuator but of course they only plugged pc to it and told me what I already know myself. To check the actuator or that turbo valve properly your shop should’ve drained coolant, remove wheel liner and remove the actuator, then reinstall everything back, fill coolant, and it takes some hours. If you just paid them for an hour of diagnostic I hardly believe they did it. I bought autoenginuity soft for about 450 instead of spending money at some other shop. Soft has calibration test included. I took the actuator off and tried to run the test. Actuator gear didn’t move. I mailed it to the shop in Illinois for rebuilt, paid 500 and then installed it back, calibrated with my software. That’s it, fixed. So it cost me 500 for actuator rebuilt, 500 waste at shops and 450 for a soft investment which I’m still using now.

 

Thanks for the input I think I'm just going to go ahead and tear it sport myself and do just like you did test the actuator and turbo and bio from there but good looking out this could save me thousands.

 

AlfaODB also has a calibration routine available and is only $50. Haven't tried the calibration so hopefully someone that has will pop in.

 

Right, it’s just much weaker soft but whatever fits your needs👍👍

 

I’ll follow the discussion. Here is the guy who rebuilt mine. He is not only replacing gaskets, he’s taking it apart and replacing whatever is inside of the actuator.