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To pull or not to pull engine

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967 views 5 replies 2 participants last post by  PTSCummins  
#1 ·
So after my experience on rebuilding the white truck went so well and it really isn't tough to pull the motor I'm considering spending a weekend and pulling the engine out of my 02 to do some much needed seal replacement. Its leaking from the pan, timing cover, and rear main seal and I'm sure I'll find more places. Its got 286k on it and its kinda noisy and definitely has some decent blow by. Doesn't need rebuilt yet but that's on the horizon it seems. So really the main question is is it worth pulling it to do all the seals or should I just man up and do them all with it in the truck still. Or is there some trick to doing all those in frame.
 
#2 ·
Pull it. For the extra hour of work it takes to pull the motor out, it's well worth the extra ease gained to do seal changes.

If you want a full seal change, do the rear main, rear main cover gasket, tappet cover ring, front drive seal, timing cover and oil pickup gasket.

Both the timing cover and oil pan use RTV, not gasket material (cummins sells a gasket for the oil pan, I don't prefer them)

Only gasket you're not easily changing is the timing cover to block gasket. I doubt it's leaking, and you have to pull the cam to get it off. Not worth it unless it's pissing oil.

Should be about a $300 bill for all seals.

Pull the rad/intercooler, pull the electrical off the grid, pull the grounds off both sides, pull the starter leads, pull the ECM plugs and hot feed, pull power steering. Remove bellhousing bolts, loosen engine mounts and out it comes.

You may have to remove the head or jack the cab up to get it to clear fully, or remove the pan and pickup. I personally prefer to pull the head and put it on in truck. It solves so many problems with clearance.

Should be able to get it out and back in in a day :)

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#3 ·
I've pulled one before I did my 1998 that I sold recently. Rtv instead of gaskets it didn't leak a drop. And that was everything. Pan timing cover rear main cover the works. I can pull the engine in an afternoon so it would probably be worth it to pull it. Especially since just the rear main is like 90% of the way to having it out. However when I pulled and installed the engine in the 98 I did I had it fully assembled and I just kind of wiggled it around the cab to get it in there. I just used the hooks and magic to get it in.
 
#4 ·
Yeah I hear you. There is a ton of magic involved getting those darn rubber isolator on the motor mounts to fit. I've started wrapping them with Electrical tape to keep them compressed. Works a damn charm.

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#5 ·
I got the passenger mount bolt in but because the firewall I couldn't get the driver's mount over the hump so I just unbolted it off the block slid the block into place and ran the mount bolts in and done. Honestly I think next time I'll install it without either mount and just throw them on when it's done. It should be a quick slant to get the pan over the crossmember and then just straight back. Automatic helps too since there's input shaft to deal with.
 
#6 ·
Yep. When I put mine back in I'll be putting the mounts in after. I also flip the bolt around on the drivers side so the nut is by the starter. The starter is still removable that way.

Oh BTW, you can get an cordless impact gun on both sides, make tightening them so much easier than using a wrench.


I can pull my motor out in about an hour now. Not proud of it, but I've had to do it so many times as of late that I've gotten a good system down.

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