they over heat usually.

 

A FYI to add also, is I also started eating Alternators, and had a failing drivers side ground cable, which was overloading the passenger battery. After replacing the ground cables with new MOPAR ones my issue went away as well.

Also, would be a good idea the check the brush pack while you are in there as well.

 

Yes I forgot to include that my cables are good.

The brushes have to be taken out to get the rectifier plate out. They had plenty of life left.

 

When performing a vDrop test what values did you see? My passenger was passing, but drivers side was almost failing, I tested my theory by disconnecting the passenger battery and the TC issues went away.

There is a black ground wire (i think with a brown tracer) that runs from the drivers side to the passenger side battery that is in a bundle on top of the alternator. Relocate that wire out of the bundle as far back to the drivers side and get it away from the alternator. I tied mine to the top of the radiator/intercooler. Continue to reroute the wire around to the passenger battery. The idea is to get that wire away from the alternator as far as possible. I did this 2-3 years ago and haven't had a problem since.

This black/tan wire is the ecm/pcm ground. Its been noted that degraded drivers side ground cable will cause higher then normal charging onto the passenger cable, and the AC noise is higher on the passenger side, and as a result the wire is more susceptible to interference.

Was the part number INR734P?

This sounds correct. Should be able to find it for $40 or so online if you hunt around.

 

this is EXACTLY what i have been looking for. Thank you so much for posting this. I was having trouble finding a shop to fix my leaking ac current, and here it is the info provided to me the best way, DIY.

Feels great when you can fix something yourself on the cheap. Best part is you know it's done correctly!

 

The part # for the rectifier plate is a Transpo-CN INR734P-1945. That what the sticker on the new one read. I forgot to put it in the first post. Im gonna add it there to.

There is a black ground wire (i think with a brown tracer) that runs from the drivers side to the passenger side battery that is in a bundle on top of the alternator. Relocate that wire out of the bundle as far back to the drivers side and get it away from the alternator. I tied mine to the top of the radiator/intercooler. Continue to reroute the wire around to the passenger battery. The idea is to get that wire away from the alternator as far as possible. I did this 2-3 years ago and haven't had a problem since.

In my original post I stated that I already moved the ground wire away. And it didn't fix the problem. And if you do move it and it fixes its still not fixing the original problem of AC getting into the system.

 

There is a black ground wire (i think with a brown tracer) that runs from the drivers side to the passenger side battery that is in a bundle on top of the alternator. Relocate that wire out of the bundle as far back to the drivers side and get it away from the alternator. I tied mine to the top of the radiator/intercooler. Continue to reroute the wire around to the passenger battery. The idea is to get that wire away from the alternator as far as possible. I did this 2-3 years ago and haven't had a problem since.

 

Was the part number INR734P?

 

This makes sense as I've replaced the pass side cables but not the driver side. I probably had higher ac noise going to the pass side. Others that have rerouted the negative wire and don't get a solution probably don't have this imbalance. Good to know.
Edit: Replaced the drivers side cables. Either way I think if there is a next time I'll replace all battery cables at the same time.

 

I'm curious to see if it is not that hard to do, but if you run the cable about behind the alternator I'm curios to see if the Lock up issues return. Assuming of course that the Alternator is still on par.

Electric is lazy, it finds the easiest path to ground.

 

I'm not 100% sure that if you leave it on that you will have access to the screws that hold the diode pack in. But you could always just take the back cover off first and you'd be able to tell immediately if you can get them out.

 

The lockup issue is because the ac goes directly to the pcm and transmission in its wiring. It also goes directly to the ecm damaging it. Forget all the fixes except quality and satisfactory alternator repair or replacement. I thin the main problem is the Nippon Denso new and replacement parts(rectifiers) are junk. bot the starters are great.
It is also caused amplified by bad cables and wire location. Both alternator and cables must be perfect with no corrosion.

 

We know what causes the problem and what the fix is for it. And the fix is buying a new rectifier/diode pack. That's all an alternator repair shop is going to do. Its a easy repair for someone and cheaper than paying someone to do the same thing. The only thing better than buying the diode yourself and doing this is buying a brand new one from Dodge.

 

After having and buying several Nippons and clones(Napa brand) including a couple from Dodge years ago, that the Bosch version are rarer but better quality with less AC.

 

I agree the cables can be an issue. I think it may be somewhat of a chicken or egg issue. Yes cables and ends have to be in great shape. But I think both issues can and does cause the lockup and other issues., but the smaller wires not so much. I also know that parts quality and alternators with bad high AC out of the box is a problem, as is other failure in the internal alt alike brushes and bad rotor(happened to me) I even got one that was not charging at all when tested out of the box.
While I do not doubt that bad cables with corrosion and arcing at the terminal clamps could cause damage to the alt and interference resulting in lockup issues. Been there and done that too. But alt issues are common and not always related to the cables, and even often bad in the box for the Nippon version.(tested several 6-10). Also the bad alt, regardless of how it got bad is what causes damage to the ECM and maybe teh PDM, CTM, and APPS or other electronics.
What I am saying is that rerouting little apps and other wires and cables and filters, tin foil and other fixes are temporary and do not do any thing to block the AC that is already damaging the ECM and more.
So yes Cables are important and may be a source, are not the only one or the end all fix.
Both cables, batteries and alt must be kept in tip top shape to work well together.