Try it on 3 with the added timing and see what it does. I am running 90hp injectors but when I add timing the smoke level goes down.

 

I run my s06 on sw7 with very little smoke (unless I want to) on my bone stock truck.

I put it on sw9 for the hell of it and it smoked every time I touched the throttle!!

 

ok ill get out there and try it with timing, From what i understand timing is what prematurely wears the motor and generates higher egt's? The truck ran awesome, i was very suprised how smooth and quiet it ran with the smarty. It just smoked out the road, there was no smoke while cruising but as soon as you got into the go pedal it started to roll it out. Ive never been a fan of smoke but it sure is entertaining lol

 

I do believe timing leads to higher EGTs. I have high EGTs... ive also never tried an even number (without timing). I definitely will when I am with my truck in 2 weeks.

also, I read in a diesel magazine today that more fuel in a diesel = more heat. unlike gas motor where more gas = running rich = running cooler vs running lean with a small amount of gas and running very hot. very interesting, I am learning lots about diesels!!

maybe if we took the smartys added timing settings off our truck, and reduced fuel pressure (how exactly though?) we could get less smoke and lower EGTs? but sacrificing power I imagine?

 

The timing does not lead to higher EGTs.. added fueling from the Smarty will cause your EGTs to increase.. W/a diesel if your gonna add more fuel for power you must increase air flow, i.e. many performance guys adding after market larger/more efficient turbos that increase air flow for the added fueling from larger injectors and programmers..

Actually, increasing the timing (injecting fuel sooner into the stroke) allows it more time in the cylinder for a more complete burn.. If you increased timing only (No Fuel) your EGTs will be lower.. The more complete burning of fuel is how MPGs increase.. More efficient fuel burn..

And yes, to much fuel (larger injectors, combined with Longer duration and earlier delivery of the fuel injection event) and to much timing increase will melt your pistons when making long WOT runs and allowing your EGTs to stay into the extreme levels... If you notice the Smarty SO6 timing settings are based on injector sizes, i.e. less timing for larger injectors and adding NOS.

To test this Run a odd Catcher#, say SW5, TQ1, RP1 Defualt Timing (TM2); make a few WOT runs watching your EGT gauge and Boost/Spooling. Then change only the timing setting to TM1 (stock), repeat the WOT runs and see for yourself the EGTs will be higher and the boost should be higher and it will spool faster cause of the hotter un-burnt exhaust gases.. If you don't have gauges then its a mood point in trying it until you have them.

FYI in the 2004.5 and newer year Cummins Engines the timing has been decreased and has added a post fuel injection event creating hotter gases heating up the added catalyst (added for 2004.5 and newer engines) in order to decrease exhaust emissions. And it keeps getting worse.. I toured the CUMMINS engine plant this past June and sat through a few seminars about the 6.7 engines and its crazy.. They are actually injecting and burning more fuel after the power curve to burn off bad emissions... I would say 1/8 to 1/4 of the fuel you are burning is for emissions burn off not power.. That is why they had to increase engine size to a 6.7 and fuel mileage is worse..

 

too much added timing can bring early death to your engine. adding timing though can actually make your exhausts temps cooler and the turbo spool faster. Just don't tow with a lot of added timing as it raises the temperature of the piston crown, end result... melt down.

 

Can you please explain how cooler Egts will spool a turbo faster.

I have experienced just the opposite.. Less timing = hotter gases exhausting spooling turbo faster.

 

with smarty you cant just be cruising slow and stomp on it and expect it not to smoke, I dont know how you drive but if you roll into the throttle instead of just dropping the hammer then there will little to no smoke.

 

heres one for ya.

when I first got the truck my girlfreind wasnt used to driving it.. I wanted her to see the power it had just so she knows what its capable of so I told her to "pin it"

well shes never driven a diesel before and she did just what I said.. pin it. nothing for about a second then when my turbo finally spooled up it went alright but made a weird sound and hit real hard. definitely didnt feel healthy, I dont think it damaged anything, but im curious.. what could that have damaged?

 

I have a question if adding timing to a point wont egts drop and in cylinder temps will be higher.

so if at wot before let say 1500 was max but if you added more timing 1300 might be your max but wont your intemps be higher???

 

I have a question if adding timing to a point wont egts drop and in cylinder temps will be higher.

YES, That is why to much added timing while towing heavy, pulling long steep grades is not recommended... You go big on fueling power for towing and tow 8 hours a day, high elevations, steep grades, with a lot of timing you stand a chance on causing some internal engine damage.

So if at wot before let say 1500 was max but if you added more timing 1300 might be your max but wont your intemps be higher???

Cylinder temps are always gonna be hotter than the exhaust temps. I would say that especially with increased timing (TM2 Smarty) your EGTs are maybe 300* to 400* hotter than your internal cylinder temps.. But again that is depending on Drive Pressures which depends on turbo efficiency.

I would rather lower the timing and spin the turbos harder push more cooling air... But cylinder temps are always gonna be hotter than the exhaust temps. I'd rather blow up a turbo than have a MELT DOWN

Drive Pressures have to be monitored and kept in control by proper turbo efficiency.

The pistons are melting because with added timing and large amounts of fuel spraying (earlier injection before the piston is at TDC) fuel tends to spray outside of the piston bowl. If you have seen melted pistons before you will notice it is on the outside of the piston near the cylinder wall.

I'm rambling again :S:

 

I got a few min to plug the smarty in and mess with it alittle and yes #3 with everything on default did clear up a good part of the smoke to a point where i can deal with it. I dont run around puttin out smoke, i try to fly under the radar lol. I bought it for a daily driver pulling and the truck did need alittle umph.

 

so you got your rail pressure on 3 on stock stuff?

same with torque management... 3 on your stock tranny?

 

so what exactly do I have to lower on the smarty to get lower EGTS and less smoke. I believe I am on sw7 with #2 for everything else.

if I really step on it and keep it under hard acceleration, it does let out smoke the whole time. nothing thick or crazy, but a definite haze. between that and the high EGTs it seems like I am getting too much fuel?

 

I smoke W/ SW7 all defaults to, I have to run TM3.. First of all you are gonna smoke more down low cause your tires are large, so getting spooled up will take you longer... I don't think your getting spooled up.. Try lowering your timing to 4 just to start out and see if that helps.. Less timing will help you spool up a bit better... If that don't work for ya try the even numbers (#4) then start adding timing until ya smoke, then go back to the setting that didn't smoke.. Once you find what Revo settings work increase the SW's and keep notes on how each tune works for you... Keep in mind you are running the stock turbo and it can't handle to much fueling, so it will get hot fast.

 

fuel heats the fire, more fuel heats the fire more, and a ton of fuel cools..does it make more power..usually no. and make sure your tq management is on less than 2, that will dump fuel horribly

 

I believe its sw3 with all defaults. Im still learning to use the smarty, had it almost a week now. On the paper that came with it it says #3 (with timing) the tq managment and the others are adjustable on each individual preset it already has?

 

correct. before you "connect to truck", you need to go to adjustments or whatever its called and set everything on 1. leave shift defuel stock and everything else on 1. as far as timing, 0 is actually stock. its weird how they do it, its 0,1,4,3,2 from lesser to more advanced timing. after you make sure your adjustments are correct, then connect to truck and program sw3. changing adjustments without reprogramming doesnt change anything.

 

Not to bump but I got an06 with 35's air intake intake tube boost cooler and exhaust I got it set on sw3 on default I like the power but it smoke like hell what could I try for setting to keep the same power with less smoke


Sent from my Autoguide iPod touch app

 

Also when you pull up the adjustment settings it says default SO i assume this means Default for the current catcher setting?

 

To the OP, how heavy are you on the go pedal? Mine will smoke like that to, if I want it to.

 

I am still confused.

I picked sw7, let it finish, then I went to adjust options and changed TM, rail pressure, etc... from there. is that right?

 

nope you need to adjust first then pick 7 or else you adjustments arent loaded onto the ecm.

 

oh really, thats so weird. so I guess ive been doing it wrong this whole time... this long week left at work just got longer. I can NOT wait to drive the truck again and start tuning it, properly, this time!!!!!

thanks!

 

Ok i understand now, ill get out there today and change it, as far as driving im not a stomp and go kind of driver, i roll into the throttle. I try to avoid just stopmin it as much as possible. Must have rubbed off from driving a tractor trailer

 

Did you not get directions with the Smarty? If not you can read and download a copy on the MADS web sight.. you gotta read em to understand the Smarty

Sent from my DROIDX

 

I did but theyre horrible. I really angers me that its 2011 and they couldnt make the 900$ smarty programmer a little more technologically advanced than a calculator from the 80s.

its so primitive, and bulky, and non user friendly, and confusing. I mean come on... it should be a tiny little touch screen that is easy to use, not confusing, and does the programming change within seconds.

 

its remapping your whole ecu, not adding 2+2 lol..

 

I don't believe ya'll are right on this one. I've never had to reload the Catcher software after updating settings for them to be effective. I changed torque management alot and it changed the response without me reloading the software.

 

^^I'm afraid that's impossible and not true.

You can change the REVO settings all your want in the Smarty but until you download a full program to the truck, you've just changed the settings in the Smarty & NOT in the truck's ECM.

If you plug your Smarty into your PC via the USB port, to power up the Smarty you can actually change the REVO settings there also, not even connected to your truck.
Changing the REVO settings there does NOTHING to your truck neither.

 

Well, I must just have imagined that I felt a change in my truck then. I thought the white booklet said in order to change a setting you just connect it change the setting under ECM update. i think torque management is the last one of the settings. Once you enter your perefrence, the smarty says programing or updating for just an instant, then you disconnect it from the truck, turn ignition off, wait 30 seconds then run it. I thought that was how it worked... mine is the 06' CR don't know if it's different for different years.

 

Try something drastic like load up tq 1 drive it then "try" your method to change settings to tq4 drive it again, then finally reload the entire tune but with tq 4 adjusted first. this will prove to you beyond doubt which works


EDIT: or even easier try the speed limiter out thatll tell you real quick