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Smarty & Smarty POD Information

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305K views 1.1K replies 239 participants last post by  xcc_rider  
#1 · (Edited)
I am Making this thread to help answer some questions about the POD and any other general smarty questions you might have. I will continue to update the front page of this thread as the need arises.

Attention: It is imperative that when loading, unloading, or updating the Smarty software on your truck that the truck have optimal battery voltage available. This is true for any programmer for the ECM. The dealership actually has there techs use a battery charger while uploading the ECM. If it is cold outside or you have not started and driven the truck in the last 24 hours it is avisable to start the truck and either drive it or idle it (drive is better) until the truck has reached operating temperature. Then you can upload the Smarty knowing that the batteries have the best charge and that the grid heater will not try to come on and put a big drain on the batteries. If your are not sure the best bet is just drive it until it is up to temp then do your changes.


Having problems updating your smarty? Please look here. Need Help with a Smarty, Look inside


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First of all the POD: Power On Demand
How much will it cost? It will be a free internet upgrade for the smarty.
The POD function is a way of derating or lowering the horsepower on your truck on the fly from 99 to 0.
The POD function is not a linear function. For example if you set your truck on Sw#9 and set your POD to 50 you are not running at 50% (the POD numbers do not correlate to a percentage at all). If you adjust your Sw to #5 the POD will function differently than it did when on Sw#9. For your information running on lower SW's will cause you to have to keep your POD higher to have usable horsepower. Settings below 50 need to be tested on back roads and not in traffic. This is will take some testing to find a power level that you are comfortable running. Please feel free to post some of your favorite settings in this thread if you would like to.

REVO settings:
Your REVO settings are not adjustable on the fly. They still require you to download a SW# to make changes to the REVO.

Transmission shifting:
When running on sw#6,7,8 or #9 and having the POD set to a lower level will cause your transmission to have delayed shifts. It may even become necessary to let off the throttle to allow the truck to shift. This can actually be a good thing. It allows you to control the shifting of the transmission with just your foot.

New Stock Software: When released with the POD.
The Sw#0 is now true stock software. Meaning just like it rolled off the dealership lot minus some of the exhaust problems. This also caused the REVO defaults to change to #1 instead of #2. This is important for anyone that wants to run added timing, Torque Management, or VGT to properly set it in their smarty. Broncohound and Dad2Bike have done some thorough testing of the stock software. I am sure if you post a question in here they will pop in and answer it or you can PM them directly.

When running the standard S-67 Smarty ( DPF intact ):
The need for keeping the EGR unplugged is not necessary. When running the S-67 software the program takes care of the EGR by commanding it to 0% at all times. This means that you get the benifit of running with the EGR unplugged, but still have no codes. So plug those egr valves back in when running the S-67.

Clarification of the Smarty Catcher power levels and Revo settings:
Catcher levels

Smarty S-67 Software Levels #0 – #9

SW# 0 : Stock Power (with new software release)

SW# 1 : 30 Hp with raised Timing

SW# 2 : 60 HP ( Stock Timing )

SW# 3 : 60 HP Like # 2 + added Timing

SW# 4 : 90 HP ( Stock Timing )

SW# 5 : 90 HP Like # 4 + added Timing

SW# 6 : 130 HP ( stock Timing)

SW# 7 : 130HP Like # 6 + added Timing

SW# 8 : 200 HP ( stock Timing)

SW# 9 : 200 HP Like # 8 + added Timing

Revo Settings

On SW# 0 all revo settings will be at #1 if using default settings.
On all Odd SW#'s all revo settings will be at #2 if using default settings.
On all Even SW#'s all revo settings will be at #2 except timing which will be at #1 if using default settings.

Injection Timing:

# 0 - Default

# 1 - Stock

# 2 - mild

# 3 – moderate ( more timing advance than # 2 )

# 4 – aggressive ( more timing advance than level # 3 )


Torque Management:

# 0 - Default

# 1 – Stock
# 2 – Mild
# 3 – Moderate ( after market clutch / AT Transmission recommended! )
# 4 - Wild ( after market clutch / AT Transmission NEEDED! )


Rail pressure:

# 0 - Default

# 1 - Stock

# 2 - Mild

# 3 – Moderate

# 4 – Wild* (after market injectors are a MUST)


Variable Geometry Turbo Setting:
# 0 - Default
# 1 - Stock
# 2 - Moderate (Good mix of power and fuel economy)
# 3 – Towing
# 4 – Wild (Fuel economy will suffer with this setting)
For Clarification: VGT Power settings go in order from least to greatest in this order #1,#3,#2,and #4. This has not changed in the POD update.




How to connect the smarty for POD and share your OBD2 port with an insight or other gauges. (PMT for Dad2Bike)
I am testing some new cable ideas. I will provide links to the cables I have ordered and let everyone know how I like them after they are installed and I am using them. One is a standard y cable and a right hand adapter. The other cable is a little more entailed you will have to check them out and see what you think. I will post details on results. You may get an error when sharing the OBD2 port with the smarty and other device. You will just have to enter the POD setting again on the smarty. Here are the links to the cables.
Standard y cable: Cable, J1962M to 2-J1962F, Y-Cable, 1ft - OBD II Cables - Cables - OBD2Cables.com
Right hand adapter cable: Cable, J1962M Right Angle to J1962F, 2ft - OBD II Cables - Cables - OBD2Cables.com
Here is my latest adventure with the cabling.
Cable, J1962M/F Pass-thru to Open End, 5ft - OBD II Cables - Cables - OBD2Cables.com

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Here is the female connector that I am using with the housings.
TecNec Cables & Connectors TecNec 15-Pin D-Sub Connector Male and Female Body Inserts 15-Pin D-Sub Connectors at Markertek.com
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The corresponding pin out of the 15 pin connector to the cable is as follows. As you are looking at the face of the 15 pin connector.
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Here is the finished cable.
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If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask.
Andy



My personal Experience:
I think that the POD is utilized the best by loading a higher SW# like 6,7,8,9 and then using the POD to lower the power to a level you are comfortable driving with everyday or as weather permits.
I am personally running Sw#8 and all REVO to #2. I adjust my POD to my liking as I am driving. When it is raining or snowing I lower the level to keep the truck more manageable.

Windows 7 64 bit operation:
When using Windows 7 the smarty downloader may not function properly. If will not function properly you can rememdy this situation by downloading the smarty usb downloader and then go to where you downloaded the file to and right click on the smarty icon (looks just like a smarty). Then choose properties. Click on the compatibility tab. Then check the box in front of the words "Run this program in compatibility mode for:" then using the drop down box choose "Windows XP (Service Pack 2)" this will allow the program to function properly.

Smarty Jr. Information
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Straight from Marco himself.
Basically, JR's software's will be level # 0 ; # 1; # 3 and # 5 of the S67.
As dispalyed on the smarty jr screen.
Stock
MPG
TOWING
PERFORMANCE

Smarty Jr's optional parameters are as follows.
Torque
The Torque selection can be programmed
#0 Default
#1 OEM Stock Torque Management
#2 Mild
#3 More Aggressive than #2
#4 More Aggressive than #3
With the Default torque setting, Smarty chooses it according to the current CaTCHER level.

Injection Timing
The Timing selection can be programmed
#0 Default
#1 OEM Stock Timing
#2 Default low Smoke Timing
#3 More Timing Advance Than #2
#4 More Timing Advance Than #3
With the Default timing setting, Smarty chooses it according to the current CaTCHER level.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c109/onelongshot/IMG_0001-1.jpg
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Will have the POD function.
CaTCHER software's inside
Standard Emission Compatible or Deletes Compatible with ME software.
Four different performance levels: Stock with deletes / 40 / 70 / 100 hp
Improved fuel economy
Optimized drivability
Fastest download in the industry, up to three times faster than
the competition, a typical ECM update takes about 3.5 to 5
minutes, depending on the truck model

ABS tire height updates in just few seconds from 22,5" to 44"
Manual High-Idle is enabled in all softwares
Reads Diagnostic Trouble Codes in plain text
No tools required, no fuses to pull
USB built in for simple updates from internet
Easy installation
Reliable, it works off your OEM hardware


This is how my EGR is taken care of.
I used two 2" circles of 1/8" thick aluminum plate to make the block off plates.

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Smarty versions, some data about the versions, and a download for them.
Smarty 14me
This has aggressive timing and produced the best mileage for me. Catcher #0 is half power and some people have the overhead message with this version.
S67V610BR14ME.7z

Smarty 18me
This is the first version to have the lower timing, Catcher #0 is stock power, and this version is the first for POD
S67PV615CR18ME.7z

Smarty 23me
This version has the correted boot loader for the newer version and it has the fix for the overhead messages.
S67V618Ap23ME.7z

If you would like any versions of Smarty please feel free to ask away.
I have a vast library.



General Smarty Questions, Answers, and Information.




Feel free to ask questions in this thread about Smarty, Smarty Jr.,or the Smarty POD.
1. You do not need to return smarty to stock to upgrade to the POD or any other softwares. Just update the smarty with the new software then load on the truck and go.
2. You need to remember to unplug your smarty when you get out of the truck. The smarty will stay powered up and draw off of the batteries until it is unplugged.
3. When running the stock program be carefull using the POD function as it can limit the power of the truck fairly fast. Dad2Bike can attest to this.
4. If you are using windows 7 it may be necessary to run the Smarty downloader program in compatibility mode. I had to do this on my computer. It is a HP 64 bit system. I just right clicked on the smarty icon and chose the compatibility tab and then chose to run it in a windows xp setup. After this the program functioned perfectly.
5. The Smarty has your stock program loaded in the Smarty. It is loaded in the Smarty when you update the Smarty from the computer. When loading the Smarty for the first time you will be brought up to the latest Chrysler flash available. This is because Smarty is loading a fresh stock program on your truck and not saving your current program from your truck to the Smarty. This is part of the reason why the smarty loads so much faster than the competittion.

Other information as it comes about.
Please feel free to post suggestions or information you would like to see added to this first post and I will make sure it gets added.
Andy
 
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#4 ·
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#37 ·
Does this help to answer your question. This is from Broncohounds POD Beta thread.

Marco said:
BH,
thanks for your report, I really appreciate! :yourock::yourock::yourock:

Hey BH, did I tell you :yourock: ? :lol4:

So things are starting to look good. Even BH has given us the green light... looks like we're close to publish the PoD.

Granted, right now I'v got only the ME version ready, that's as far as I could get yesterday. Seems to me like Monday will be another busy day! :lol4:

Thanks to all the beta testers! You guys have done a really GOOD JOB helping me to refine this software for the final release.

OK, have a nice weekend!

Marco
Click to expand...
Andy
 
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#7 ·
It is getting close. I am sure Marco wants to make sure that everything is just right before he sends it out. You know how Marco is.
Andy
 
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#8 ·
Great thread! Good info all in one place.
IMHO stay very far away from any pods of 35 or less on stock. (for those of you that feel daring)
 
#10 ·
I layed a layer of the sticky matt like you would line a tool box with under the Smarty and then sat it on the center console.
Broncohound puts his down by the cupholders in the lower center console.
Andy
 
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#11 ·
I have the center seat. I run with it layed down like a console that gives me a place to stick the base of the smarty. I store it under the cupholder when not plugged in.
 
#13 ·
blacksmoke101 said:
im still a little confused. we use the arrows to do up and down power gains :confused013: im so confused lol :banghead:
Click to expand...
There is a Power on demand menu. We input a number from 00-99. The display shows present pod number and a register to type in the 2 digit input number.
 
B
#16 ·
The PoD values are assigned values rather than physical values. They aren't a % of anything, they are just an assigned number system to represent a partial derate of the full power available to the truck. This means that SW5, all default REVO, and PoD 50 on MY truck may be different than SW5, all default REVO, and PoD 50 on YOUR truck, since you might have different mods done to the truck, live in a different climate, or live at a different elevation. The entire purpose for PoD is to allow the owner to set the MAXIMUM amount of power they want the truck to be able to have access to (your SW levels and REVO settings) and then fine tune the amount of power they want the truck to have on the fly when daily driving, pulling trailers, driving in inclement weather, loaning out the vehicle, etc etc etc.

While I'm sure there will be alot of information swapping regarding what owners are running which SW with which REVO settings and what PoD settings, it's really going to depend MUCH more on individual user tweeking. This is where PoD comes in and shines. We don't have EFI live, so we can't fine tune individual parameters within the ECM, but with PoD we CAN fine tune how the truck drives much more than we ever were before. Keep in mind each SW level is different in more ways than peak HP levels. An owner may prefer the way the truck pulls at SW7 better than any other CaTCHER setting, but doesn't necessarily need the full power available of SW7 or may worry having that power will cause problems with their transmission or other driveline components over time. With PoD, they can still get the basic programming of SW7, but derate it to the point where they feel more comfortable. Don't get too hung up on what the actual numbers of PoD "mean." They "mean" a different thing for each individual truck and setup. Once PoD is available for download and users get to play with it, all this will become MUCH more clear. It really is a simple process, just a tough one to describe in text.

Andy-Great post and great thread. I agree it should be a sticky, at least until PoD is released and the shine has wore off it.
 
#17 ·
BroncoHound said:
The PoD values are assigned values rather than physical values. They aren't a % of anything, they are just an assigned number system to represent a partial derate of the full power available to the truck. This means that SW5, all default REVO, and PoD 50 on MY truck may be different than SW5, all default REVO, and PoD 50 on YOUR truck, since you might have different mods done to the truck, live in a different climate, or live at a different elevation. The entire purpose for PoD is to allow the owner to set the MAXIMUM amount of power they want the truck to be able to have access to (your SW levels and REVO settings) and then fine tune the amount of power they want the truck to have on the fly when daily driving, pulling trailers, driving in inclement weather, loaning out the vehicle, etc etc etc.

While I'm sure there will be alot of information swapping regarding what owners are running which SW with which REVO settings and what PoD settings, it's really going to depend MUCH more on individual user tweeking. This is where PoD comes in and shines. We don't have EFI live, so we can't fine tune individual parameters within the ECM, but with PoD we CAN fine tune how the truck drives much more than we ever were before. Keep in mind each SW level is different in more ways than peak HP levels. An owner may prefer the way the truck pulls at SW7 better than any other CaTCHER setting, but doesn't necessarily need the full power available of SW7 or may worry having that power will cause problems with their transmission or other driveline components over time. With PoD, they can still get the basic programming of SW7, but derate it to the point where they feel more comfortable. Don't get too hung up on what the actual numbers of PoD "mean." They "mean" a different thing for each individual truck and setup. Once PoD is available for download and users get to play with it, all this will become MUCH more clear. It really is a simple process, just a tough one to describe in text.
Andy-Great post and great thread. I agree it should be a sticky, at least until PoD is released and the shine has wore off it.
Click to expand...
exactly, i guess i will have to just get it and play with it. if we dont like it (doubt it but..) what should the POD function be set to. or would we have to revert to a differnet version of smarty, sorry for all the dumb questions but im just trying to get an understanding on exactly what it does. when i think of power on demand i think of how edge is used. one push of the botton. 30 hp one more 50 hp and so on.
 
#18 ·
POD unlike revo settings will start with 99 after a load. It is up to the user to derate what they choose from that point. :thumbsup:
 
#29 ·
Ok... i have a simple mind and i'm drugged up on turkey and ham!!!!
So as an example:
With mods you have 400hp. With the smarty on sw9 you get bumped up to 500hp.
You run the pod on 99 and u have the full 500hp at yr foot.
You bump it down to 50 and you have 250hp????? or are you simply dropping 50 and taking you down to 450hp????
 
#34 ·
Guys it is not a percent change. It is a not a linear function. to say that 50 is half and so on would be incorrect. It is totally dependent on your mods and what sw# you are running. It is something that you will have to play with and decide the correct level for you,.

Hypnotoad said:
the numbers are not a percent, nor do they directly relate to a certain horsepower drop. At least this my understanding of it.
Click to expand...
This is correct. 60 on one truck will probably be something different on another truck. This allows you to tailer your exact tune for your truck.
WHITEBULL said:
Its making alot more sense to me now. One question: Lets say you adjust the POD to say 60 and drive it that way all day. Can you then unplug the Smarty, take it in at night, then the next morning take a drive and have everything set the way it was the day before without plugging the Smarty back in?
Click to expand...
Yes smarty will remember the last setting you put in it until you change it again. Even if you unplug it and shut the truck off.
 
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#31 ·
Its making alot more sense to me now. One question: Lets say you adjust the POD to say 60 and drive it that way all day. Can you then unplug the Smarty, take it in at night, then the next morning take a drive and have everything set the way it was the day before without plugging the Smarty back in?
 
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#32 ·
Ya know... It make no use to talk down the pods or how others will use the pods. Use it how YOU choose or NOT AT ALL. That what choices are all about. Just like going between tuners.
Like BH noted- When it comes out load and play with it. See how it works for you. :thumbsup:

I'm presently running sw8/revo2 and pods at 50. It is a smooth trackable power. No smoke either. Very similar to sw3 w/o the timing rattle. On 99% I smoked out some poor guy behind me, WOT. I didn't mean to. :w:
 
#35 ·
Guys come on please keep this on topic. Questions directly relating to POD, use of, and understanding of. No one cares if you think it is necessary or not.
Andy
 
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#39 ·
pod

Marco sent me the pod file on thanksgiving. I finally got to install it on the truck yesterday. So far I like it usually I run on sw7 and all revo functions on 2 but I changed it this time to sw9 tm3 and the rest on 2. when its on 99 its the same and it changes seamlessly on the fly. so far i did 0,30,50,75 and 99.I also was able to get the lie O meter to go from 15mpg to 29 playing with the settings. Until yesterday the most I have ever seen on it was 25. I know its not accurate but intresting none the less. You really need one of the right handed obd2 cables though I is kind of annoying bumping the cable.Now if we could only get some gauges and a smaller monitor we would be ok the smarty is just to big to have strapped to the dash and not to mention I shure dont want some one stealing it that would suck!
For the person who is anal about there truck this will let you dial it in to get it perfect!

Were taking the kids to go see santa this afternoon I am gonna ask the big guy for a SMARTY MONITOR maybe them elves can whip something up:hehe:

Thanks marco for the beta file:yourock:
 
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#40 ·
Do you think this would be cool? A small switch to operate the pod. Like this, load up the software and unplug smarty.Than plug in the pod switch.Have it mounted where you like. Why havent they done something like that? I shot an e-mail off to mads elec regaurding this and they even said it sounds like a good idea.Maybe if there were enough guys running a smarty and could push this idea it could happen,or maybe there is a good reason it hasent happened.Anyway thats my 2cents,otherwise I love the little bugger!
 
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#41 · (Edited)
I dont see why we cant use something like a dashdaq or a pda to do this it would seem like it would cost mads a whole lot less money to let some one else make the unit and just use there software on it.

I mean dont get me wrong I like my smarty but a monitor would be the S#$T:headbang:

oh yeah I pre ordered my smarty when they first came out so that the last time it was stock and running the pod on 0
just feels weird :lol4: did i mention I love my smarty:party018:
 
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