I'm not going to even try level 3. I'll just get myself in trouble

Said the same thing and about a month later finally tried SW3 and could not get the smile off my face.

Changing TQ will just lessen the take off power, default puts most power to ground. TM on 4 will give more power and smoke.
Enjoy.

 

I wouldn't run anything less than level 3...

 

Did you notice any alarming temps while pulling your camper through the mountains? I just got the Jr. but don't have gauges yet so a little worried about pulling my trailer up the hills. How were your EGT's? What setting did you have in on? How heavy is your camper?

 

I would not recommend towing a lot of weight when programmed and no gauges. You can get to insane temps while towing with no programmer. I learned from experience.

 

people need to ask themselves how does an engine that makes MORE power run cooler?

with increased boost, it will certainly run cooler, but if you're running the stock boost, your lower EGT's comes from advanced injection timing.

what happens when you advance the timing? you inject the fuel earlier, so it has longer to burn in the cylinder. This puts MORE HEAT in the piston crowns. Which means LESS HEAT in the exhaust.

It's not magic, it's physics... the engine doesn't run cooler... the exhaust gas is cooler

 

Correct, but the 04.5+ trucks are so retarded from the factory that a little bump in timing is a good thing, and doesn't add too much heat to the cylinders.

The Jr just makes the engine more efficient, and since we don't have piston crown temp gauges EGT's are what we go off of. But with timing you need to drop your max sustained EGT's from stock. I use 1300 as my max continuous, 1350 for short periods, but rarely break 1200 anymore.

 

I agree which is why an 04.5+ will do 1500* towing pretty easy

these engines will take the 100hp Smarty tune no problem IMO.

My point is that there's no magic to it, the engines aren't running cooler if they're making an extra 100hp

 

Very interesting info, so when you have the S-06 and run the 170hp without having coated pistons are you risking melting them?

 

you're risking melting the pistons stock! LOL

running around empty, it's tough to hurt anything. towing is where you melt stuff usually. even with the 170hp tune, you're rarely going to use all that power. keep an eye on your pyro and you'll be fine

 

Good deal my trailer is so light that I rarely hit 1000* unless I'm passing somebody uphill with a head wind lol unless of course I floor it

 

sounds good

 

my 06 and 5er gross 22k I never see over 1150 deg and have it at sw3 and leave it and when it's just the truck..............arty018::drool2:

 

What are you running the TM and TQ at?

 

don't mess with the timing or torque management unless it's to set torque management on stock IMO

 

Yeah, its pretty simple.

 

Does the JR have a built in boost fooler?

 

Kinda. The ECM isn't "fooled" persay, but it does the same thing. The JR will allow full fueling up to ~44psi. 03-04 trucks need the WG physically adjusted, and the 04.5-07's don't.

But personally I wouldn't run a HE341 past 30-33 and a HE351 35-38ish.

 

Did your truck blow much smoke after you installed your smarty JR?

 

On SW1 with the timing and torque in the default mode I get a nice puff of smoke when getting on it.

On SW2 with timing and torque in the default mode, you can get a nice cloud of smoke rolling out of it!

When I say default mode on timing and torque, I mean I left them alone so I'm assuming that's the default mode? Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Greg.

 

that's correct on the defaults

 

Yes the Jr can smoke some, if you shift too quick when towing you can fill an intersection on a 95* day (did it yesterday, 3rd at 1100 rpms and trying to accelerate didn't please the folks behind me).

Under normal driving there is never more than a puff, really getting on it under 5-8 psi of boost will roll some serious coal in the summer, and just a puff in winter.

It's one of only two complaints I have with the Jr, I have played with the settings and its from the timing, not the tq management. I would like to see less timing at low boost for the smoke reasons. The other complaint is I would like the WG to work at 35 psi of boost, not just disabled. The DP gets pretty high above 33-35 psi, and with the "stock truck" mentality the WG should work. I have talked with Marco for a couple of years about this, and he was working it back a year or more ago, WG settings like stock, 35, 36, off for the user to choose... He emailed with me pretty regular for a while, but I haven't heard from him in over a year, guess he has been busy with the 6.7 and SSR, which is understandable.

But don't let those detract from your decision, I LOVE my Jr and the times those two issues effect me is less than 1% of my driving time.

 

don't feel bad, it's ok to complain about the downfalls of the Smarty tuning! LOL

I do it quite often

it's still my favorite programmer for the Dodges, but it leaves a LOT to be desired

 

just read everything and all i have to say to the OP is turn it up to the 100hp setting!!! ul love it. after trying it on my old jr. i never wanted to detune it. but be careful with ur trans even on the 70hp tune ur trans can take a beating

 

i run my tq on 1 which i think it stock, the paper that comes with it says the higher the tq the more smoke that you may see. Does that mean that number 4 will smoke the most? I dont understand that because its one step above stock if i am reading everything right.

 

torque management 1 = stock, and it goes incrementally higher each setting up... less and less torque management... which is nothing but re-scaling the throttle input and making the throttle more touchy (and yielding more smoke)

I run torque on level 1 whenever I load a Smarty, and they still smoke too much

 

Its kinda the opposite on a Jr. 1 is stock, 2 is mild, 3 is milder, 4 is mildest. So in the order of aggressive to not is 2,3,4,1.

I have played with all the settings and TQ doesn't seem to effect my smoke, but your weakest setting on the Sr is my strongest on the Jr.

It's strange you say that. When I was running the JR I would hit 35lbs of boost then the WG would open and it would go back to about 32 and hold. It is the same now with the Smarty SR and the waste gate still in stock setting. Might I have a boost leak?

Sounds like 2 things, one your boost gauge reads a few psi high. Stock operation should peak to 32 and settle to 28-30 empty and 28-32 with a load.

For some reason not all trucks take the Jr or Sr's ability to turn off the WG, and a boost fooler is needed. Its pretty rare, but it does happen. It appears to be the same for you, but try turning the WG off on the Sr and see what happens.

 

so would you guys run a smarty jr over the other smarty? im looking for a programmer for my 05.

 

no, I would buy a full Smarty, no question

 

I have no need for the Sr, so the Jr is perfect. It really all depends on what you want to do.

There are features of the Jr I like, and some of the Sr I like.. but since the Jr is all the hp I need its what I run.

 

i also would only buy a smarty sr. never
even considered the jr.

 

I ran one for a day... borrowed it from Michael @ HotRodDiesels when I went and picked up my 03. He wasn't getting another shipment of real Smartys till the next day.

it was neat and all, but I loaded that truck on Revo9 the next day, and it was night and day difference!

I couldn't imagine being limited to only 100 additional hp