I don't know why or how but my '96 12V block cracked in the same area as many 53 blocks do. Casting flaw, core shift, previous owner froze it? I dunno... The rest of the truck has been completely rebuilt with only a couple thousand miles on every moving part except for the long block and injection pump, which currently have less than 150K miles on them. I am hesitant to attempt at repairing my block for fear that the cause is a casting flaw and it will just crack again. At the same time I am not paying the prices idiots are asking for 300K mile motors out of a dodge truck...
I have found a few suppliers of pull out motors but they all look to be industrial application engines.
I have been trying to find some definitive information on what if any differences these industrial engine long blocks might have vs. the truck motor. Naturally all the hits I am getting on google are topics related to the "best/strongest" of the 12V blocks or what motors make good donors for a cummins swap into a non-factory application.
I am doing a direct swap into a factory 12V truck so I don't care about differences in injection pump, gear case, or other accessories. I have all of that in good working order. I only care about differences in block, head, crankshaft, rods, pistons, etc.
Regardless of condition of the engine that I purchase, at a bare minimum, I will be tearing it down, measuring all bearing journals and bores to ensure they are withing spec, correcting whatever is needed then installing new bearing, piston rings, and getting the head cleaned up with a valve job.
Some specific differences that I had read about:
I have found a few suppliers of pull out motors but they all look to be industrial application engines.
I have been trying to find some definitive information on what if any differences these industrial engine long blocks might have vs. the truck motor. Naturally all the hits I am getting on google are topics related to the "best/strongest" of the 12V blocks or what motors make good donors for a cummins swap into a non-factory application.
I am doing a direct swap into a factory 12V truck so I don't care about differences in injection pump, gear case, or other accessories. I have all of that in good working order. I only care about differences in block, head, crankshaft, rods, pistons, etc.
Regardless of condition of the engine that I purchase, at a bare minimum, I will be tearing it down, measuring all bearing journals and bores to ensure they are withing spec, correcting whatever is needed then installing new bearing, piston rings, and getting the head cleaned up with a valve job.
Some specific differences that I had read about:
- Can I use my original engine serial number to order parts like gasket sets, oil pump, etc?
- Storm block vs. non-storm block: I don't want a storm block, I want all my stock style fittings and sensors to work.
- Front sump oil pan: Not a big deal, I can swap over my oil pan and pick up tube. Is there more to it than that?
- (Unconfirmed) Intercooled head vs. non-intercooled head: I have seen references to some casting differences but no details.
- (Unconfirmed) Lower compression ratio in certain industrial engines: If true, will a new set of pistons bring that motor up to dodge specs?