Long story short, I no longer have room for the abs module, and no need for abs. I need to be able to keep my speedo and odometer functionality though. I see that all the electrical portion of the abs module is removable from the lower portion with the lines connected.... can i separate the two, eliminating the abs lines, keeping the electrical and maintain speedo? I know I'll have abs light and I'm not worried about that. Any ideas? 01 2500 4wheel abs.
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Im thinking that this may be a way to do it...?? I read that our speedos work off of 8000 pulses per mile, so if thats the case, i just have to figure out how to wire it, and should be good to go...?
Im thinking that this may be a way to do it...?? I read that our speedos work off of 8000 pulses per mile, so if thats the case, i just have to figure out how to wire it, and should be good to go...?
I'm in the same boat. I tried separating the abs module from the tone ring part but the speedo refuses to work, unless all connections to the abs computer are connected.
I just kept it.. But ya a gps is your next option. I've heard it's possible to wore a gps to the factory speedo. But I have no idea how. If you find out I would be interested very much
I just kept it.. But ya a gps is your next option. I've heard it's possible to wore a gps to the factory speedo. But I have no idea how. If you find out I would be interested very much
So i keep reading, but cant find a answer... I fallowed the speed sensor/ABS wire off the front hubs, and it goes into the ABS proportioning valve it looks like?? Did i mix my wires up?
I would like to install my own adjustable proportioning valve, and run brake lines from the MC, to the valve, to the axles and thats it. If i do that, and keep all the electrical stuff thats already there, hooked up to where it is, will my speedo still work??
I would like to install my own adjustable proportioning valve, and run brake lines from the MC, to the valve, to the axles and thats it. If i do that, and keep all the electrical stuff thats already there, hooked up to where it is, will my speedo still work??
just speaking out loud here...
if he sensor is there, tone ring registers...all it should do is signal the function.
bypassing all of that, with manual items should NOT cause an issue, I would think all is controlled by the reception of the tone ring.
if he sensor is there, tone ring registers...all it should do is signal the function.
bypassing all of that, with manual items should NOT cause an issue, I would think all is controlled by the reception of the tone ring.
No idea how you would make this work, but for the one question yes the front sensors do not feed the speedometer. This is because the front sensors will be sending different speed inputs than the rear due to different cornering speeds which is why the speed sensor only feeds off of the rear differential so it is a consistent signal regardless of cornering.
Consider resale value of the vehicle if you hack up important safety features that may be irreparable later on.
Consider resale value of the vehicle if you hack up important safety features that may be irreparable later on.
Also, where I used to work we would install these digital measuring instruments:
RAC Distance Measuring Instruments
into some of our Forest Service fleet vehicles for the drivers that needed to do survey staking on roads for contractors to fix the forest roads. They tapped directly into the vehicle speed sensor wire which sends out the electrical pulse as the tone ring goes around, typically located on the transmission or the rear differential depending on the vehicle. Then the module was dialed in to a range for the estimated pulses that the sensor sends out again dependent on the vehicle, then it was fine calibrated on a precisely survey measured driving course that was about 1/2 mile long. These units when calibrated correctly are FAR more accurate than the factory odometer, however they need re-calibrated for exact precision every time the tires are changed.
I would think utilizing something like this without the head control unit with only the box that the speed signal goes into and does the basic calibration for the pulses, then tap that into the speedometer feed wire off of the ABS module, then the fine tuning could be done directly through the OBDII port on the truck to input the revolutions per mile (which will NOT be based on your tire sizes anymore, and would have to be played with to get the correct number into the system). Now obviously since this isn't for close to precise survey work then it would not need to be calibrated to the nearest 1/10th of a foot every mile, but just fairly close to accurate speed. Just spitballing here, but it could work...
RAC Distance Measuring Instruments
into some of our Forest Service fleet vehicles for the drivers that needed to do survey staking on roads for contractors to fix the forest roads. They tapped directly into the vehicle speed sensor wire which sends out the electrical pulse as the tone ring goes around, typically located on the transmission or the rear differential depending on the vehicle. Then the module was dialed in to a range for the estimated pulses that the sensor sends out again dependent on the vehicle, then it was fine calibrated on a precisely survey measured driving course that was about 1/2 mile long. These units when calibrated correctly are FAR more accurate than the factory odometer, however they need re-calibrated for exact precision every time the tires are changed.
I would think utilizing something like this without the head control unit with only the box that the speed signal goes into and does the basic calibration for the pulses, then tap that into the speedometer feed wire off of the ABS module, then the fine tuning could be done directly through the OBDII port on the truck to input the revolutions per mile (which will NOT be based on your tire sizes anymore, and would have to be played with to get the correct number into the system). Now obviously since this isn't for close to precise survey work then it would not need to be calibrated to the nearest 1/10th of a foot every mile, but just fairly close to accurate speed. Just spitballing here, but it could work...
Resale value of the truck is out the window. The truck is 4 linked in the rear with coil overs and bypasses, long armed up front with 4.0's, and is in the middle of getting a full cab/engine cage lol. Not much left is to factory spec.
My next option is relocating the whole thing. Im not against that. Ide need new lines made, and prefferable, ide like to have them stainless braided lines, so i can move them where i please. The issue is all the fittings. I hear dodge use ******* sizes.. Anyone have a diagram showing fitting sizes?
My next option is relocating the whole thing. Im not against that. Ide need new lines made, and prefferable, ide like to have them stainless braided lines, so i can move them where i please. The issue is all the fittings. I hear dodge use ******* sizes.. Anyone have a diagram showing fitting sizes?
I can tell you there is a lot more your not seeing...
Grid heater will not cancel without speed signal.
Cruise control does not function at all.
High idle will not cancel because no speed signal.
Speedometer / odometer are non-functional without the ABS module.
If your automatic your going to lose some transmission functions too.
I've just spent a week without my module in the truck and I can tell you that it can't be done.
Grid heater will not cancel without speed signal.
Cruise control does not function at all.
High idle will not cancel because no speed signal.
Speedometer / odometer are non-functional without the ABS module.
If your automatic your going to lose some transmission functions too.
I've just spent a week without my module in the truck and I can tell you that it can't be done.
Could one re plum the brakes in a conventional manner , and leave all the abs equipment / electrics in place . So it thinks it working ? No loss in functions controlled by the abs / speed sensors / ECM ?
At that point the only thing it's missing is hyd juice/ pressure .
Just a thought as a last ditch effort .
At that point the only thing it's missing is hyd juice/ pressure .
Just a thought as a last ditch effort .
Hydros work just fine without the module on the block. I'm without a ABS module as we speak and the brake work just fine they way they are.
Its the ABS computer that picks up the speed signal and pushes it out on CCD Network. So you need the block to seal the circuit of the ABS module so you can separate the module and keep it dry that will leave a big hole for water to fill the module. I would not like the idea of a thin piece of sheet metal to cover it won't seal very well.
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Its the ABS computer that picks up the speed signal and pushes it out on CCD Network. So you need the block to seal the circuit of the ABS module so you can separate the module and keep it dry that will leave a big hole for water to fill the module. I would not like the idea of a thin piece of sheet metal to cover it won't seal very well.
I removed the whole abs thing off my truck.
The computer and the other thing it's attached to.
My speedo and odometer did not work. My grid heater may have stayed on I never thought about it, but it was in the summer. I hope it didn't !
What I wanted to add was my transmission shifted just fine, overdrive and lockup just fine.
The computer and the other thing it's attached to.
My speedo and odometer did not work. My grid heater may have stayed on I never thought about it, but it was in the summer. I hope it didn't !
What I wanted to add was my transmission shifted just fine, overdrive and lockup just fine.
Local guy here did it, and the only thing that it effected was his speedo/odo. Trans shifter fine, no grid heater malfunctions. I really dont need cruise control for off road either. Worst comes to worse, the grid heater can be removed anyway. The local guy got rid of everything, and just used a Wilwood proportioning valve right off the MC, and went straight to axles from there. I just need a way to get the speedo/odo to still work.
On my 99 V-10 truck I removed all the ABS hardware, and ended up using a Dakota Digital box wired up to the out put speed sensor on the transmission, everything works fine, Cruise control, Speedo, odometer, etc...
It was a few years ago but here is the wiring I ended up with:
SGI-5...........PCM
Sig Grnd.......C2-25 DB/BK
Speed in.......C2-28 LG/BK
OUT3...........C2-27 WT/OR
C2 is the center of the 3 connectors on the PCM mounted on the firewall on the passenger side. 25,27,28 are the ports, the connector is numbered. I spliced into the input and ground wires (25,28) leaving them connected to the PCM AND the SGI-5, but cut 27 coming from the ABS module and wired the SGI-5 directly to the PCM leaving the RWAL output signal disconnected. The power and ground I will pick up under the dash when I permanently install it.
It was a few years ago but here is the wiring I ended up with:
SGI-5...........PCM
Sig Grnd.......C2-25 DB/BK
Speed in.......C2-28 LG/BK
OUT3...........C2-27 WT/OR
C2 is the center of the 3 connectors on the PCM mounted on the firewall on the passenger side. 25,27,28 are the ports, the connector is numbered. I spliced into the input and ground wires (25,28) leaving them connected to the PCM AND the SGI-5, but cut 27 coming from the ABS module and wired the SGI-5 directly to the PCM leaving the RWAL output signal disconnected. The power and ground I will pick up under the dash when I permanently install it.
Logan, with what your doing to the truck, theres really no reason to even keep the factory gauge cluster. Look up what Rick Fox did with his 2015 DPC truck, and how he used SpeedHut gauges in a modified factory cluster. Its not the cheapest option, but its clean, and works. The trans should work fine as it has its own speed sensor that picks up on a tone ring on the output shaft.
Other wise exactly like Mufman said will work.
The Dakota Digital SGI-5 module can be found here: http://www.amazon.com/Dakota-Digital-Universal-Speedometer-Controller/dp/B004Y1P59W
Take the Dark Blue with Black tracer from the center connector on the PCM to the terminal labeled signal ground on the SGI-5
Take the Light Green with Black tracer from the center connector on the PCM to the terminal labeled signal in on the SGI-5
Take the terminal labeled OUT3 on the SGI-5 and splice it to the White with Orange tracer in the center connector on the PCM.
This way is the cheapest and you retain all your factory functions and you loose the ABS like you want.
Other wise exactly like Mufman said will work.
The Dakota Digital SGI-5 module can be found here: http://www.amazon.com/Dakota-Digital-Universal-Speedometer-Controller/dp/B004Y1P59W
Take the Dark Blue with Black tracer from the center connector on the PCM to the terminal labeled signal ground on the SGI-5
Take the Light Green with Black tracer from the center connector on the PCM to the terminal labeled signal in on the SGI-5
Take the terminal labeled OUT3 on the SGI-5 and splice it to the White with Orange tracer in the center connector on the PCM.
This way is the cheapest and you retain all your factory functions and you loose the ABS like you want.
i think i can i think i can i think i can.... And doing this, will give me speedo, as well as odometer function right??? Not to worried about the 4lo issue. I never use 4lo.
Thanks guys!!! What ever you do, dont PM me a phone number so i can call and ask 12000 questions on the wiring =)
Need suspension built? Got it, no problem. Need me to wire a light bulb? you've got better odds betting on a wheel chair bound double amputee running hurtles.
Thanks guys!!! What ever you do, dont PM me a phone number so i can call and ask 12000 questions on the wiring =)
Need suspension built? Got it, no problem. Need me to wire a light bulb? you've got better odds betting on a wheel chair bound double amputee running hurtles.
I was just reiterating what Murf was saying, I was just trying to help explain it a little more direct.
So i THINK ive got it figured out, thanks to you guys and the tech guys a Dakota Digital... They rock.
So ill be completly ridding the truck of the ABS module, pump, etc... While keep speedo/tach/odo all completely functional!
"The ABS is only a concern if you’ll be attempting to keep it functional. Since this will be going away (if I understood properly), this won’t be any concern to you at all.
In terms of the install, connection-wise it will pretty minor:
Power & Ground: Solid Accessory power connection
Signal In: Hook to existing front ABS sensor
Signal out: Hook to existing wiring which feeds the OE gauge cluster, this should the same as the output of the ABS module
Then, your device has some onboard pushbutton switch, you’ll take it from a drive and press up or down until dialed in properly – using a GPS or smartphone as your speed reference."
Makes it pretty easy. For a proportioning valve, ill just run this wilwood
![Image]()
Now i have a new question... Does anyone know what the brake fitting sizes are that go into the master cyl?? Mine are pretty beat up... oops....
So ill be completly ridding the truck of the ABS module, pump, etc... While keep speedo/tach/odo all completely functional!
"The ABS is only a concern if you’ll be attempting to keep it functional. Since this will be going away (if I understood properly), this won’t be any concern to you at all.
In terms of the install, connection-wise it will pretty minor:
Power & Ground: Solid Accessory power connection
Signal In: Hook to existing front ABS sensor
Signal out: Hook to existing wiring which feeds the OE gauge cluster, this should the same as the output of the ABS module
Then, your device has some onboard pushbutton switch, you’ll take it from a drive and press up or down until dialed in properly – using a GPS or smartphone as your speed reference."
Makes it pretty easy. For a proportioning valve, ill just run this wilwood
Now i have a new question... Does anyone know what the brake fitting sizes are that go into the master cyl?? Mine are pretty beat up... oops....
Circletracksupply.com might be willing to help you with the fitting sizes... They make full stainless replacement kits, and should have all that info.
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