I've been thinking the same thing too for a while now. From what I'm reading people spray it either pre or post inter cooler, I was going to do the air horn as you mentioned.

What is your current setup? Also how much extra fuel do you have available? -like does it still roll coal under full boost?

I'm going to start off with a progressive kit that ramps up starting at about 20 psi and goes to full flow at 60psi boost.

Warning - nitrous increases cylinder pressures tremendously. Set aside a couple hundred $ for a headgasket job (or I'm just going to o-ring it when it pops)

 

Oh, also you'll probably want to start off with something small at first to get it dialed like a .032" orphis

 

how hard is this on our motor?if you dont use it like a junkie

 

If you spray with with a .001 pill, not hard at all, if you spray it with a .250 pill it will probably run like a bat outta hell for a second or two until your crank falls on the ground. Its all relative.

If you just did a little .032 pill and you only made about 400whp and WHEN spraying boost and EGT's and drive pressure was all just fine then theoretically if you had an unlimited supply of N2O you could spray indefinitely.

My truck is huvering around the 600whp mark and I'm not even thinking twice about it, BUT I know it will only be used realistically about 10x a year after I show it off to everyone and their sister. BUT I'm going into this world with previous nitrous knowledge from the gas world and knowing this WILL pop my HG at some point. Also when you go into this set a limit because it is VERY adicting because you can pick up XXX hp in a matter of minutes, right up until it breaks. And its usually NOT cheap. I'm drawing the limit at 800whp. (doubt my SO will even get me their). Because this is well within a 24v's limits and other than a HG I should be ok. just watch your drive pressure.

I know this is going to be a very unsatisfying answer, but really there is no answer. Just spray it and find out, its only money and you only get to live once. Unless you're scattering parts you're not trying hard enough! lol (totally kidding)

 

pre intercooler will drop temps further and allow for better mixing. spraying in the horn works as well. i would suggest either a progressive controller or starting with a diesel specific kit as the jet sizes do not work the same as with a gasser.

 

Nskyline, I wouldn't say I still roll coal wide open but still definitely a fair amount of black smoke, current set up is the stuff in my sig plus a ported head and I'm going to be switching to an edge ez/pm3 stack because I don't like the timing break up with the quad.

 

Ok, one thing I would do is NOT do an EZ, rather do a MVP or Drag comp. (I LOVE my drag comp). Why dont you pull out a little timing from the Quad then before getting rid of it? Timing hurts topend hp anyways? Helps spool though so maybe that's why its like that?

As long as you have extra fuel you can make the power. You dont need a progressive diesel kit *IF* you stay small. now I know small is all relative, but for me if I have a 300hp truck I'd be fine doing a 200 shot, but if I have an 800hp I'd only like to do a 100hp shot. Just because you already have a lot of existing stress on the rods and mains. Just my .02. Now, Jlbayes is right, a progressive kit is better and that is the only way I would spray my truck. the cool thing about it is its programmable for boost pressure, fuel pressure, RPM, speed, ect so you can really tune how it comes on.

Bayes is also correct that the XXX hp shot you are common to hearing from the gas world does not apply. you can run no jet in the lines at all and only pick up 10hp if there was hardly any extra fuel available (which sounds like you dont have an issues with). You will want to buy a bunch of progressively larger pill sizes and just like everything, start small and slow and get the feel for it.

This is the kit I'm working on getting:
UNIVERSAL DIESEL WITH PROGRESSIVE CONTROLLER, 15LB BOTTLE

Then will get jets from .032" progressively larger upto about .093 and slowly change them out.

The 96mm wheel on that 75 willl eat this s*** up for sure.

 

A little info about the kit your looking at....

The .093 lightning solenoid when controlled by a progressive controller negates the need to use jets at the injection point (whether it be pre or post intercooler).

The progressive controller has user set parameters that allow a given percentage from 0% - 100% of solenoid size... in this case .093 being the max. So, 0 - anything in between .093 can be achieved with the solenoid alone.

One can change percentage points to adjust injection amount i.e.; Set percentage parameter to 33.33% of .093 = .031 +/-. Basically in the instance I just listed the solenoid will only open 1/3 of the total amount or approx. a .031 jet.

Solenoid would be mounted at injection point....

Also, you can set the percentage parameters at onset to say 5% at 20 psi and ramp up to say 33% at 60psi (or up to say 100% at 60psi). The adjustments are endless (basically). There is also a cut off point which is helpful if you don't have a lot of extra fuel once fully lit at full tilt.

Moral of the story... the kit you picked is one of the better if not the best kit available (Assorted jets not needed).

By the way I run this kit on my truck!:thumbsup:

 

Very detailed, thanks for your answers!

 

Once you stud and oring you're head you shouldn't have to worry about popping any hg right?

 

not entirely. cylinder pressures will sore. if you have a little HX35 at 35psi and you spray it with an o-ringed head and studs you will probably get away with it forever.

If you push 80psi and spray it, you will be on borrowed time with studs and o-rings. usually people run XX psi on the street back it down for spray to help compensate for the cylinder pressure. so for instance my truck, going down the road at 80psi normal boost only, with spray I would dial my WG back to 65 psi and then spray it. the extra fuel not used by the turbos will be more than used by the N2O anyways.

BUT o-ring and studs are really about the best you can do on a DD street truck. so you are right, just want to say that it is NOT the be all end all, its basically the best insurance you can buy tho without welding the head to the block

 

If it's done right.

 

I like the idea of that progressive kit, I never quite understood what progressive meant, so even with a .093 jet or wide open on a progressive power still depends on extra unburnt fuel? And also when should I be injecting? A certain rpm or a certain boost?

 

Progressive means you can ramp up or down or fluctuate (for some reason) the amount of spray you need/use/want based on X Y Z parameters. Typically RPM and boost to the dependants you use. So for instance, you can make it start off at 5psi boost it sprays about 5% then ramping up to 50% giggle gas at 20psi boost and then to full 100% go juice once you touch 50psi (or whatever your choices are). I personally am going to still run jets even tough you do not need to just because I'm a little paranoid about things. This will probably only last for a couple months before I say screw it and just do the normal thing of no jets as the guy implied on pg one, but since this progressive thing is new to me i dont trust it *yet*.

Now a NON progressive kit is a light switch, on or off and nothing in between. this is then you get the most "hit" and can cause the most damage. can spray a forged SBC with a 400hp shot of spray, if you do it progressively, whereas if its just a single stage normal spray, that motor will experience 400hp to 800hp jump in a split second. that's when you get awesome noises and cool sparks and usually the crowd goes nuts too! As will your wife when she sees the bill to fix it! lol Now if you start spraying that motor starting at 2000 rpm and ramp up the spray to be 100% at 8k RPM. (i'm just using numbers as a hypothedical, lets not get into building a nitrous huffing mouse motor please)

as for when you inject, just play with it. this is going to be some serious butt dyno tuning at its best. for the first bit just start small/slow. have it spray maybe 5% at 10psi and ramp upto about 30% at 50 psi and see how it feels. then judging on how it pulls/spools you'll know where you want more or less. you might want it to ramp up quicker at first to help the twins light and then once the twins take off maybe back down the ramp rate. its all gonna be seat time and just have fun. unless you wanna go for a big number, then you make it ramp really hard really fast to try and spike it. but this is a solid cheaters tactic.

It always cracks me up when people make comments on how dangerous nitrous is for engines. What's funny though is if you do a little research I almost guarantee you will find that it is incredibly safe when used in a diesel application. Gasser, now that is a completely different story. Just don't be that guy spraying the turbo on the dyno and you'll be fine.

You will hit a point of diminishing return before having to worry about blowing something up or spraying too much. If and only if you are built for the application. Main focus here will be the head. Bottom end should be fine with a vp's power range even with nitrous. Also keep in mind that the nitrous is only there to help effectively burn what fuel you are injecting. So again you will eventually hit a wall when injecting nitrous.

Nitrous can be dangerous or it can be just fine. everyhting in moderation is fine. you can run a motor with no oil, you do every time you start it, but only in moderation. you can run a crap load of spray, but only for a little while. Just depends on how you do it :thumbsup: ^^^ this man speaks the truth tho, you can only make the power you have the fuel for.

 

It always cracks me up when people make comments on how dangerous nitrous is for engines. What's funny though is if you do a little research I almost guarantee you will find that it is incredibly safe when used in a diesel application. Gasser, now that is a completely different story. Just don't be that guy spraying the turbo on the dyno and you'll be fine.

You will hit a point of diminishing return before having to worry about blowing something up or spraying too much. If and only if you are built for the application. Main focus here will be the head. Bottom end should be fine with a vp's power range even with nitrous. Also keep in mind that the nitrous is only there to help effectively burn what fuel you are injecting. So again you will eventually hit a wall when injecting nitrous.