Any standard ball valve will work. Get a 5/8" (iirc) brass ball valve in place of your heater valve. Keep it closed in summer and open in winter.

 

Get a 5/8" (iirc) brass ball valve in place of your heater valve.

I'm searching for an IIRC but nothing is popping up. What is IIRC? Thanks.

 

Does it go on the passenger side or driver side hose?

 

Just remove the vacuum operated one that is on the heater hose going to the heater core and install the ball valve.

 

It's just another acronym for If I Remember Correctly. And I agree, remove the vaccuum operated one and put in a brass ball valve.

 

It's just another acronym for If I Remember Correctly.

DOH! (Smacking forehead)

Thanks guys. I'm going to try and put that valve in today.

 

I ended up using a 3/4 valve with some clamps and it worked out just fine. Now for the big test tomorrow to see if it helps out the A/C!

Once again thanks for the help.

 

Here's the set-up I put on my truck....

I searched high and low for the "right" manual shut off valves I wanted to use. Many hours were spent searching all over the internet until I happened across these babies!

4 Seasons 84706. Used on early 70's dodge pick up trucks.

And the vacuum operated shut off valve was not available for our trucks...at least with a 5/8 x 5/8 hose connections. Maybe I just couldn't find it, but I searched high and low and never could find a direct OEM style replacement.

I found many that would "work" but looked hideous, IMO, but eventually found one I liked.

4 Seasons 74859. Used mainly on Ford Rangers from 2003 to 2008.

Now here it is all installed...

Now next summer I can just turn off the valves and no heat, or coolant will enter the heater core to affect my AC temps.

 

This is the first time I see two installed. I only put one on the passenger side hose. How necessary is the second one?

Nice set up by the way.

 

Not necessary to have the second one on there. I just did it so that there would be virtually no heated water entering the heater box. Even in the stock configuration, just the shut off valve on the in-flow line, the out flow still transfers heat into the heater box through convection.

 

Google image search "3/4 PEX SHUTOFF VALVE". You'll see a bunch of varieties of shutoff valves you can use. The heater hose is 5/8's. But 5/8's hose will slip right over the 3/4" Pex shutoff valve.

 

Thrashing- makes sense. I think I'll add a secondary. It's easy enough and any little bit helps.

Gilbert- that's the one I ended up using. Works perfect. Glad you posted that pic for the people to follow.

 

I want to bypass my heater core in my repowered van. I keep reading its ok to stop the flow from the head without fear of hot spots, but then some people still building a recirculation pipe to continue flow..

I cant find info on testing engine temperatures with the coolant port on the head next to #1 blocked.

Has anyone actually tested that, so I can be sure I don't need a recirculation bypass and simply install one valve?

Thanks

 

No 6 cyl is the one that has the higher temp. problem. The Dodges have a vacuum operated shut off for when heat isn't used so It shouldn't be a problem not having a heater core.