Start coating PB blaster on it asap. Lost of pb blaster and a wrench and a hammer helped me. I used the wrench and hammer on the top two nuts, and also on the back rear one. For the bottom front nut I used a breaker bar with an extension and a deep well socket. I just did this last week actually. They look a lot worse than it really is, once they broke loose, a few more turns and I could use my fingers to take it out the rest of the way. I advise you to get new studs if you put on a hx35, along with a new oil line gasket and manifold gasket.

Now I am about to put on an Hx35 also. Yes it will work fine with stock injectors, the Hx35 is almost the same as the stock turbo, but it just depends on your exhaust housing. the Hx35's generally come with a 12cm exhaust housing, while your truck stock either has a 18 cm or 21 cm. If you use the 12cm housing, your truck will likely get very hot when you tow so if you tow a lot, you may want a 16cm exhaust housing.

 

Also if you have a torch some heat on the nuts will help them come off, buy new nuts for it they should be metric.

 

PB Blaster. Thats how I got the ones off of my 89 cummins. It works wonders. Then use box end wrench and another wrench for a breaker bar. They'll come off.

 

Impact. I wouldn't use breaker, could twist off, hammer and wrench better.


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Start the engine and let it warm up for a few minutes, then shut it off. After it cools a little to where its not a fire hazard, soak the bolts and nuts with PB Blaster, as the metal cools it will pull the PB into the metal and help it penetrate. Then they should loosen up.

 

I did a bunch of WOT throttle runs and when I got home, popped the hood and put like half a can on them.. probably didnt do much since it all burned off. I thought doing some wide open throttle runs might get it hot and kinda expand the housing a bit. I dont know. Had to be extra careful though with welding gloves.

Using a long breaker bar and extension for the front bottom stud was the only way I could get to it. Then a ratchet, extension, and deep well socket because the smaller socket would get wedged between the stud coming out and the exhaust housing. The rest I put a wrench on and kept hitting with the hammer until it finally broke loose. Once it did I could pretty much take the studs out with my fingers.

 

when i did my first turbo swap i pulled the hole manifold off and then pulled the turbo on a bench made life 100x easier and not much more labor installing. just installed my s366 and also pulled the manifold. it will be MUCH easier to pull the manifold!

 

Eh, I don't really agree with that.

If your turbo bolts look like that, the manifold bolts will be worse, more than likely. And you're risking breaking off bolts in the head. I would MUCH rather take the turbo off the manifold. You're risking a lot less that way.

 

if you do use a socket make sure it is a 6pt and not a 12pt, 6pts have much more surface area

 

they'll come off. a little pb, let it soak for 10 minutes,
then remove.

 

Acetone and ATF 50/50. Mix well and apply with a brush.

 

PBBlaster, Liquid Wrench.....go by Harbor Freight Tools....get a Pistol Style Descaler....its a airtool with a bunch of small metal fingers for knocking mill scale and rust off plate or flux off welds.
Use this all around your housing, the vibration will help the Blaster and Liquid Wrench seep into the parting lines. The vibration that is set up in the parts while using this is great for disassembly. Thats why impacts work.
Let that puppy rattle on it a good bit....usually you can get things loose without breaking the bolts that way.
For fast, professional removal on a do-it-now basis....get your favorite carbonated beverage whether it Pepsi or Coke, shake it slightly so its fizzing, soak your bolts with that....the fizzing action will allow the liquid seep thru the rust and lubricate.
I find that and FREEZE from Fastenal, its a cold liquid that after spraying on a part, gets it EXTREMELY COLD, to be quite effective....after administering a little warmth the said parts first.....

 

wd 40, a boxed end, and elbow grease got mine off

 

last resort broken off or not...idk what u have in the way of tools....that bolt is gunna be damn hard if you have heated it up pretty hot already... center punch center of bolt end, drill 1/8in hole past depth of female threads. heat just down the center of that hole let cool to touch then try again with pen oil. might need carbide bit besta luck!!!

 

Hit it with your purse...







I'm sorry I had to... Like everyone said, they're not as bad as they seem.

 

Hit it with your purse...
Hahaha....thats priceless! :rof






I'm sorry I had to... Like everyone said, they're not as bad as they seem.

Hahaha....thats priceless! :rof

 

There's no substitute for heat, but you won't do it by heating the entire thing. When you run up the engine to heat it you are expanding both components the same amount so you accomplish nothing.

Penetrating oil is good for getting frozen bushings moving or nuts off after they've started moving but are tight because it will soften the rust on the threads, but I've never found them to be very effective in initially getting things loosened.

The way to remove nuts or bolts is to heat the nut red hot, or in the case of a bolt into a casting, the casting red hot.

The idea is to heat the outer component (nut) without heating the bolt (stud) to the same degree. The objective is to have the outer portion expand away from the inner portion. Then spin it off while it's hot. Once it cools off it will actually shrink from it's original size making it even tighter. In mos cases once it has expanded it will break the rust bond and even when cooled will still come off okay, but in some cases where the threads are fused it's necessary to keep them hot.


Another tip. When you have a broken bolt or stud, you place a flat washer over the remnants of the bolt, even if it is flush with the surface. Hit the broken stud with the arc welder building it up until you fuse to the washer. Then let it cool. The stud will "shrink" after the extreme heating and you will be able to turn it out quite easily.

These are things you pick up after almost 40 years in the trade.

Steve g

 

another way to get out a broken bolt or stud (if it is sticking out some) heat the entire area moreso the part around the stud, if you can get it glowing.

grab your vice grips (that are already adjusted very tight) and quickly snap them on turn back and forth in quick jurky motion and as the vice grips act as a heat sink they will suck the heat out of the stud alowing it to turn while the reast of the area is still very hot.

works almost every time, only problem is once you have super heated a stud it is very hard to drill out.

Dar