http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/images/PDFs/ARP Head Stud Installation.pdf

no need to remove the head. They can be replaced one at a time. See instructions above.

 

Thank you for the pdf Chrisminx

I have been meaning to find instructions for adjusting the overhead on these 6.7 Cummins. Since I'm past 100,000 miles I'm going to check mine soon.

 

Thank much for the PDF chrisminx, seems like this job is not that involving at all.

 

I haven't done it yet but plan to. Just looks time consuming

 

Yeah..It sure is time consuming... But far better than spending on a new head gasket, coolant... Etc.

 

Chris,
Thank you, thank you, thank you for posting the instruction, I just post a lot of question asking everything that is covered in the installation instruction you posted. This "olde Salty Chief" can go back to removing the cylinder head. If you were close I'll buy you a beer of your choice.

 

I did my head studs one at a time like the PDF shows, super time consuming but not that difficult. It was my first time doing a head stud job and I'm really glad I saved the labor costs and did the job myself.

 

Agreed, the satisfaction you get after doing something on your own alone is worth the trouble you go through doing it your self.

 

which studs would i use?

 

I used the ARP 2000s, guys are going to jump on here and say nothing but ARP 625s will hold but there have been a few guys on here to hold close to 800hp with the 2000s. I guess time will tell for me.

Ouch, think I'll take the sore back n arms route:thumbsup:

The way I looked at it was the savings in labor paid for my Air Dog 200. arty018:

 

what about the H11 studs?

 

Ive been at 800+ for a few years with the arp 2000s. No issues here. If you keep drive pressure in check and stay away from drugs, you shouldn't have any issues with the 2000s.

 

2000's here also, and i do drugs..............just a little, and its not a gateway drug..

 

my turbo just blew an as of right now i have the turbo an mani off an the head exposed.just got my arp 625s in.im takin it real slow on the head stud install only problems ive ran into is lots of oil in the passenger side head studs and it bieng a little more harder to screw the stud down. but so far the install is going smoothly!

 

I taped a straw to a shop vac to suck the oil out of there when it was too full to install the new studs. But like mentioned above I'm glad i did em myself.


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which ones are the "2000's''? does James at rollin smoke sell them?

 

These are them.

Rollin Smoke Diesel. 1998.5-2012 Dodge 5.9/6.7 ARP Headstuds

 

looks like ill go with the 2000's. I cant justify spending $2100 on studs, and i won't be pushin anymore the 34-35psi of boost.

 

^^^ i meant $1200 haha.

but on a serious note, is there a difference between the ARP 2000's and 425's? my local parts shop only carries ARP 625's and 425's for the 6.7L so i'm assuming the 2000's and the 425's are the same thing? any ideas?

 

Yes they are the same. If you look at the part numbers they are the same 247-4202.

 

quick question, should i replace the head gasket since i'm doing the studs? mine is not leaking or anything. I don't plan on removing the head but if i should replace the gasket i will.

 

Unless it's blown, most people don't change the HG out. It's a bit more work and money. I just installed my studs one at a time.

 

I did the one out one in method, hg was leaking 4 months later. I guess it's not a necessity but there's nothing like peace of mind.


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what method did you use? gdp??? and after you got to 150ft lbs did you loosen and retighten 4 times??? just curious i'm doin it right now and need all the help I can get..... done so much search I cant see straight... thanxxx..

 

Yup followed them step by step. Made are I was doing everything right. Even did a 500mile retorque


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so i started installing my 425's when i notice that the little black plastic on top of one of the injectors broke off, Must have hit it with a wrench or what ever. is this injector garbage now?

the little black plastic piece at the top between the 2 gold pegs.

 

anyone?......

 

Someone else might chime in with better info but I've been running one on my 5.9 like that for a few thousand miles with out any issues. What I can tell you if it bothers you, you can get it repaired, its not junk.

 

whats the purpose of that piece? just to separate where the 2 wires bolt on?

 

I broke my plastic piece when I was on my last torque. It's just to keep the wires from touching. That's all. Will the wires have a chance to touch?