Just unplug the relay or remove it with a delete plate if you're concerned about it

 

Okay so I would need something to go there as a replacement.
Thanks!

 

You can simply unhook the grid heater wire from the relay for free. The plate isn't really necessary.

 

You can replace it for peace of mind and for more air flow. I have seen some customers tack weld it, lock tite it and more. really up to you on what you would like to do. If you do decide to replace it, i highly recommend Glacier Diesel Power's air boss grid heater plate.

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good to know the problem. So basically the bolt melts off from overheating and arching due to the solenoid sticking on causing them to run to long.

Fully removing it is an option, but you need to pull the fuel rail to do it. Not to bad, but not quick and easy either. Newer truck could generate codes, apparently it’s something to do with remote start.

Or, just leave it all in place and disable it. Simply unplug the power lead going from the passenger side battery to the solenoid. That it. The truck still calls for grid heaters when it think it’s needs it, but they never power up. Then, should you ever be in a situation where you need/want grid heater you just plug it back in. (assuming your “bolt” is still tight and safe, check it from outside). This is I would and did do.

Banks is marketing this issue super hard to sell you a $1000+ intake setup. But it’s all totally not necessary or beneficial for 99% of the truck out there. The internet is full (specifically less knowledgeable Facebook channels) of people seeking confirmation bias for the money they already spent on Banks horns.

If you want the grids functional and 100% safe, and don’t kind spending money, GDP makes a sweet grid heater that replaced the TV flapper.

 

Thanks for all the info!
I'll look into the grid heater and see if the nut or whatever seems loose etc.
I don't necessarily want to remove the heater. Just want to prevent any serious damage is all.

 

Thanks for all the info!
I'll look into the grid heater and see if the nut or whatever seems loose etc.
I don't necessarily want to remove the heater. Just want to prevent any serious damage is all.

Probably best to just disable them TBH. Just unplug the wire going from the passenger side battery to the relay. Zip tie it to the side in case you need the grids later.

 

Does disabling them remove the nut on the inside that comes undone and falls in? I doubt unplugging it does so haha.

 

It just prevents the grid heater from turning on, without it having power it won't melt its way off into the cylinder

 

Yup, the nut doesn’t just fall off on its own. It melts off. People always be focused on symptoms and not the root cause.

 

Ah okay I see. I thought the nut just vibrated off or something over time.
So then this is another question: does the grid heater always turn on//what temps does it turn on?
Living in the bahamas I doubt the heater turns on if it only comes on at a certain temperature. However if it always comes on then I'll look into unplugging it.

 

Ah okay I see. I thought the nut just vibrated off or something over time.
So then this is another question: does the grid heater always turn on//what temps does it turn on?
Living in the bahamas I doubt the heater turns on if it only comes on at a certain temperature. However if it always comes on then I'll look into unplugging it.

It turns on when the intake air temperature reads 32f or lower for about 6 seconds to aid in cold starts

 

umm, IMO it turns on way before it really needs to. Mine will come on for 5 seconds or so when its below ~45*... Which is ridiculous. I have mine disabled and made it through our "winter" here in Texas just fine. I had a number of early morning cold starts in upper 20's/lower 30's and had zero issues. I did use the block heater a few times this year so I would have a warmer cab, but yea... never ended up plugging my grid heater back in.

as for there nut, essentially what's happening is the grid hater relay is failing and sticking ON when its trigger. Causing it to overheat/arch/melt. Here is exactly wht I did, removed the relay wire and zip tied it to the side, so with a qucik box wrench I have in the cab and a zip tie I can put it back on if I ever need it
[pic won’t upload right now]

 

The wire you removed from the (pass side) battery, does that hook to the solenoid right below the tube, from air filter to turbo? Thanks

 

I started my truck today and the grid heater light came on, it was 47* outside…

And no it doesn’t come on all the time. It is on for a very short time a when it’s actually cold

 

I can't see your year truck but since your posting in the 07.5 to 09 forum I'm guessing your truck is in that time frame. That being said I thought the grid heater bolt failures were in later years. Maybe 2013 or so?

Also assuming you have a keyed ignition and not a push button. If that's the case then the grid heater is activated when you turn the key to the on position. If you just immediately go and start your truck the grid heater doesn't turn on once the motor starts. So less run time means less chance of arcing.

Ram does what's called "the jiggle test" on all vehicles in service. They just grab the top of the connector and wiggle it to see if it's loose. If it is they recommend immediately replacing it.

By unplugging it at the solenoid some have experienced a code (p2609 I believe) and occasionally a CEL. My 2012 does it whenever I leave the key in the on/no start position. I have mine disconnected and I just clear the code with my diagnostic tool whenever it happens.

 

Yup, it’s an 08’, I actually have mine off to lighten the load on the batteries. I wasn’t really worried about “the bolt”

 

I took the wire off at the relay, but it throws an engine error code is there a work around so it doesn’t throw the code? Does the computer get a temp sensor reading somewhere to decide if it activates the relay? And where is that relay?

 

Some of the AlphaOBD guru's on here may know if it's a program out thing. The only other work around I've read about is installing another grid heater with the same amperage draw just mounted on the motor. It then appears to the ECM as return amperage fooling it. Or you could remove the OE grid heater and go with a much more expensive setup that includes one.

I have the same problem. Sometimes you can delay the code by not being in ignition on no start position. Just go straight to Start.

 

i'm wondering if one could simulate the resistance of the grid heater with a resistor of equal value to fool the computer into thinking the grid heater is still hooked up?.should one unhook it and put a resistor from the relay output side to ground. edit::: unless the computer is also monitoring the IAT to confirm the grid heater is functioning.

 

There's been lots of discussions about the Grid Heater on this Forum as well as others. You might want to do a search on the old interweb. I think I recall someone installing a 300amp resisitor.

 

Not wanting to ignite a firestorm here, but there is an inexpensive way to keep a functional heater and eliminate all the bolt/engine destruction concerns.

You can get the attached intake, chevy coil heater, add on bung and the welding needed all for under $200.

That way you have a functional heater with the factory grid heater left in place but disconnected.

Yeah I know it's a cheap Chinese product, but the reviews I've read have been very positive.

Besides, I'm just a sucker for welded stainless!

 

Not wanting to ignite a firestorm here, but there is an inexpensive way to keep a functional heater and eliminate all the bolt/engine destruction concerns.

You can get the attached intake, chevy coil heater, add on bung and the welding needed all for under $200.

That way you have a functional heater with the factory grid heater left in place but disconnected.

Yeah I know it's a cheap Chinese product, but the reviews I've read have been very positive.

Besides, I'm just a sucker for welded stainless!

View attachment 1003168

If you wanted to completely remove the grid heater for peace of mind you could also go a cheap route

All you need is a grid heater delete plate, M22 bung to weld in the stock intake manifold and a dih4 heating coil which is also below $200

that way you could also keep the egr for you emissions intact guys while completely removing the grid heater and maintaining a pre heat option

 

I would personally go this if I really wanted a grid heater. This goes in the place of the Throttle valve flapper on the inlet side of the factory horn. As well and cut out the factory grid heater.

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I would personally go this if I really wanted a grid heater. This goes in the place of the Throttle valve flapper on the inlet side of the factory horn. As well and cut out the factory grid heater.

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Should also mention that if he isn't tuned then this will throw a check engine light and remote start won't work

Removing that throttle valve or even unplugging it when emissions are intact will throw a cel unless you are tuned with that code removed

There is a spacer with a dih4 coil that can be put in place inbetween the intake manifold and throttle valve that black market performance makes too