Just my opinion

How many miles are on the truck?

Sometimes the old saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it" is a wise decision.

I hear what your saying and don't completely disagree with your thinking.

What is your HP goal?

You could just install the springs and studs with the head in place. Keep the head gasket in case the need ever arises.:thumbsup:

 

180,000 right around there, im doing a set of 7x.010s and a turbo to match with whats in my sig and im done, thats reliable yet fun and fuel friendly if need be

 

I think head studs would be fine. I don't think you really need to do valve springs Unless you are planing on doing really high boost.


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Checking head.... yes as long as you have a good true straightedge and feeler gauges.

 

You dont think 110 valve springs are needed? Figured why i was there and just in case i do more to it I would do em now and they have some miles and age on them.

 

You can put them in. I just think you have to run zink additive in your oil so you don't have premature wear on cam or something like. That is what I have read.


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Opps double post....... too much going on......

 

i never heard that, ill have to look into it

 

I'll probably catch some flack for my opinion on valve springs.

I run Formula 1 Diesel springs.

I think 110# springs are fine if your going to change the cam as well.

There are many who run 110# springs and say cam wear isn't a problem....

Cam wear is not something you can feel, hear, see and so on until is gets worn fairly well. You can keep a eye on cam wear by checking you valve clearance frequently.

Looking at the cam is the best way to see what wear has occured.

I think there is a need for 110# springs for some in your case I don't.

Go to F-1's site and read about "their" springs and "their" theory behind the numbers (#'s) they use.

I think springs are a good idea sometimes more important than studs.

I see you run Edge "hot unlock" so if you wind it out a lot like I do I believe it's good insurance to run aftermarket higher pound springs.

I also run Cam Shield which increases Zinc levels in the oil, Zinc in the right numbers (PPM) will help with cam wear.

 

I dont want to put parts on just to put parts on if ya know what I mean......rather do the efficient parts building then way way over kill

 

I never ran springs with my 66 and big sticks with zero problems.

Leave the head on, put studs in it, and be on your way with money in your pocket.

 

If you pull the head, get it machined. A true straight edge and feeler guage can be off +/- .005" Do it right the first time.

 

Don't mean to derail the thread but.....

mjd91 do you drive a Dodge Viper:drool2:???

 

06 SRT-10 in mineral gray :thumbsup:
Viper with a bed. Lol

 

You left diesel in the dust and went to a gasser...

 

I'm with Super...
The best seal you will get is the stock one. So if its holding, leave it!
If it blows then spend the money on it and get it ringed.



Yessir and so far I haven't looked back!

 

If the stock gasket is holding fine with the work i hve done, the head must be in good shape to still be sealing it good right?

 

That's not a guarantee that it will seal with the new HG.

I'll say it again..... leave your perfectly fine HG in place, stud it, spring it if you want and let her rip!:thumbsup:

Sounds like you're dead set on changing the HG.... if so, just be sure you use a genuine Cummins HG.

 

If i stud it with the Head on and leave the original gasket do you think it will hold for miles to come or is it all a gamble, anf i will be getting f1 diesel springs after looking at there product thanks

 

I ran for a couple years after doing studs in mine.

How is the SRT10, powerwise, compared to the cummins???

It's different. Cummins was 550hp and 1200+ tq. New truck is probably about 475hp and around the same tq. However the new one is way lighter and built for speed. It will dang sure get on down the road too!

 

Yes, I think you'll be fine with new studs and original HG.

Just be sure your well rested and have some time on your hands when you install the studs. It is somewhat labor intensive......

Springs are not that bad, just be cautious with the valve spring keepers, they remind me of mexican jumping beans..... haha!

 

I've never heard of a true straight edge being off 5 thousands. It would definitely not be true at that point. Why would factory manuals tell you to use a straight edge and feeler gauges to measure surfaces with tolerances a lot tighter than that?

If you're still going to pull the head, I would check the surface of the block and the head. If you get a reading that's out of wack, flip the straight edge over and move it horizontally so that you're measuring on a different part of the straight edge. If you still get the same reading, triple check on a different part of the straight edge. If you get a bad reading again, then there may be something going on. You can also use a marker to mark questionable areas. Don't use a pencil as the graphite is highly corrosive against the raw cast material that is now exposed to the atmosphere.

 

Im thinking this is what im gonna do

 

why spend the extra money on the head gasket and surface when you don't need it??? put the studs in and you will be fine. my truck floats the valves in the higher(3400+) rpms with what i have in my sig. leave the head on the truck!

 

Let me know how your hg holds with that 66. Everyone else contributing to this thread only runs a stock turbo.

Having the head off is a great time to have it decked, have a 3 angle valve job, and MUCH easier access to do the springs. Sheesh the couple hundred is worth the convenience of not having to chase spring keepers. Or as some have said mexican jumping beans haha

 

Why spend the money? I bet that a good machine shop's tolerances are much closer than a mass manufactured engine's. After a timing issue blew my gasket, I was .012" off from 100% true flat. Do you think you still have the "original" seal after you relieve pressure from an area then re-apply it? NO, plain and simple.

 

Replacing head bolts with head studs one at a time:

Clamping forces on the head gasket are not relieved following the "one at a time" method, maybe ever so slightly, however, it's negligible.

If this were true everybody who has performed this procedure would have blown head gaskets.:thumbsup:

 

my head gasket is gonna hold fine, the head is o-ringed. i blew the head gasket in may from adding too much TIMING. started pushing oil out the front of the gasket right below the thermostat housing.

 

I guess zenzen didn't pay attention to my posts either. I did the one by one method and ran that way with a 66 for a couple years with zero problems.