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G56 question

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4.5K views 17 replies 13 participants last post by  ATC  
#1 ·
I went and test drove a new 2018 mega cab. I was close to buying it. Anyways I’m coming from the gas world and I by no means was trying to continuously hot rod the truck, but I kept shifting at 2300 rpms if not higher. Every time I shifted over 2000, the truck would keep the same rpms and not drop between shifts (my foot off the gas for sure.) I also felt a viberation. The salesman assured me this was because of the exhaust brake. I just want to make sure this is normal. I never noticed it on another truck that I had test driven. Once again I’m not trying to hot rod the truck. Hell I wasn’t even trying to shift off of the rpm, I was shifting I guess off of feeling, but that feeling was off of every manual gasoline engine I had ever driven. If this is normal I’ll be picking up the truck tomorrow.

Thanks,

Chris
 
#3 ·
My 07 does the throttle thing too. It was irritating at first but you get used to it. I came from gas trucks too. I learned to let off the peddle before pushing the clutch and all is good. the vibration I can't comment on but the exhaust brake does give a different feel. try turning the exhaust brake off and see if the vibration goes away. It did take a little getting used to but I love my truck now!
James
 
#4 ·
I have a new 3500 g56, Ye athe throttle hangs briefly when letting up to shift. My understanding is that is part of the nanny features of the truck.
I will say I have never enjoyed a truck as much in my life as I am enjoying this one. I came from a 2016 2500 6.4 Hemi lb cc 4x4 to a 2018 g56 lb cc 4x4.
 
#10 ·
I have a new 3500 g56, Ye athe throttle hangs briefly when letting up to shift. My understanding is that is part of the nanny features of the truck.
Not a nanny feature. The 5.9L HPCR’s with the NV4500’s, NV5600’s, and G56’s did the same thing.

I recall it has to do with the rail pressure lag time after releasing the accelerator.
 
#5 ·
The salesman assured me this was because of the exhaust brake.
:hehe::hehe:

I'll assure you that salesman has no idea how an exhaust brake functions. The exhaust brake creates back pressure and if anything it will lower the rpm faster not slower. That was a good laugh for the day.

Also when using the EB, in order to downshift you should apply slight pressure to the accelerator before your shift. This will disengage the brake and take the load off the driveline, , then clutch in, rev match and down shift then let off throttle and EB will re engage. This is the correct way to downshift with an engine or an exhaust brake on and much better than just pressing the clutch with EB fully engaged.

Also a slight rpm hang is normal, but you said they dont drop at all?! As in, you can just hold the clutch and the rpms stay exactly the same? That would indicate it's not disengaging if that's true.

Last, my pedal always vibrates over 2k rpm. Keep in mind tho, it's a diesel not gasser. Dont have to rev the p out of them. That said, I shift 2-2300 empty and 2300-2500 loaded/pulling or hill climbing.

Hope this info helps
 
#6 ·
The salesman assured me this was because of the exhaust brake.
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I'll assure you that salesman has no idea how an exhaust brake functions. The exhaust brake creates back pressure and if anything it will lower the rpm faster not slower. That was a good laugh for the day.

Also when using the EB, in order to downshift you should apply slight pressure to the accelerator before your shift. This will disengage the brake and take the load off the driveline, , then clutch in, rev match and down shift then let off throttle and EB will re engage. This is the correct way to downshift with an engine or an exhaust brake on and much better than just pressing the clutch with EB fully engaged.

Also a slight rpm hang is normal, but you said they dont drop at all?! As in, you can just hold the clutch and the rpms stay exactly the same? That would indicate it's not disengaging if that's true.

Last, my pedal always vibrates over 2k rpm. Keep in mind tho, it's a diesel not gasser. Dont have to rev the p out of them. That said, I shift 2-2300 empty and 2300-2500 loaded/pulling or hill climbing.

Hope this info helps
Yeah I did a lot of homework before coming into the store. The guy was telling me the truck came with 932 ft lbs of torque. I said I thought only the Aisin had 930 ft lbs. He said “yeah.” I said I thought the g56 had 660, and he said no this is the Aisin. After that, I just let him speak and said yeah I didn’t know that, thanks for the info. He truly thought he knew it all. I tried to be a nice guy and correct him on things and he just had this ego of being right. He stated 2500’s mostly came with coils in the rear but some have leaf springs. He stated that long bed mega cabs are out there but very rare to find. So I took everything he said with a grain of salt. Anyways I never held the clutch in long enough to see if continued at the same rpm’s. And I rarely down shifted. I only noticed it at 2300 rpms or higher. And for the record I know I should (and I will learn too) shift a lot lower. I think it was force of habit for sure for the higher shift points. And on a final not, which I thought was funny, I didn’t know these revved up 5500rpms! He mentioned that when I brought up the clutch vibration and the weird engine noise. Anyways thanks for confirming this is normal. This doesn’t scare me off since it’s normal behavior and your right these rigs are a blast to drive! On another note I tried to get the truck to do dead pedal that everyone complains about, and it wouldn’t do it. Do the 18’s have high idle? I thought I read that the 18 manual’s now have the factory high idle built in. If so how do you make it idle up. I thought it was off of cruise control. I know 17 and older don’t have it.

Thanks,

Chris
 
#7 ·
Wow.. sounds like he really knows his vehicles. That is amazingly horrible! I'll have whatever he smoked on break please. . All you can do is smile and nod at em knowing they are talking out of their backside.

I have heard the dead pedal is all but fixed on 17+ trucks. As for manual high idle, not sure, but very doubtful. Last I heard it's only able to be enabled on the ecm for manual C&C trucks. If it is enabled..truck in neutral, clutch all the way out and ebrake on, then press cruise on, set, and +/- to adjust. For me, I need high idle often when loading or unloading, hitching up, etc... BD high idle kit was my solution. Its pass thru technology that sends a signal thru the throttle position sensor based off the crankshaft position sensor so it doesn't effect warranty and cannot be traced if concerned bout it. Its prob one of my favorite and most practical mods yet, also was one of my first.

Sounds like you got a winner there for a truck, I mean unless your salesman can round you up a 2500 mega long bed aisin manual with leafs, :grin2:.Hope you can make the price right and it all works out.
 
#16 ·
Wow.. sounds like he really knows his vehicles. That is amazingly horrible! I'll have whatever he smoked on break please. . All you can do is smile and nod at em knowing they are talking out of their backside.

Sounds like you got a winner there for a truck, I mean unless your salesman can round you up a 2500 mega long bed aisin manual with leafs, :grin2:.Hope you can make the price right and it all works out.
Don't forget the 5.5k gsk kit for commonrails!
This type of behavior is what makes me believe that anyone wearing a dealer shirt or nametag has a room temperature IQ. This be like goin to the dentist and the dental assistant saying, yeah brushing your teeth wears them out. You're better off not doing it!

Have only bought 2 brand new cars over the years and make precious few trips to any car dealer, but it's always the same story, except once in a while the parts guys know what they're talking about, but even that's 50/50 it seems.
Parts guy tried to sell me a $400 water pump for our 07 5.9 once. I told him I didn't need it installed too and somehow he looked perplexed...
Salesman tried to sell us on the used Daytona Charger they had (that was all beener'd out btw) in lieu of the new SRT Charger that we were specifically there to buy. That car, that one car, don't care if they're giving away Hellcats type of transaction. Knew which one. They only had 1. It had been on their lot for 18 months. Only orange car in the whole friggin place and this @sshat can't stop talking about the white Daytona "that was a special package and faster than the SRT with better brakes and suspension, thats why it's a Daytona....those are special edition performance models!"
 
#8 ·
Dead pedal is still there on 17+.
High idle is not enabled.
Run from that salesman.
Love my 18’ and have no regrets.
That is all.
 
#9 ·
dual mass flywheel.

with a solid flywheel the RPMs drop FAST. i actually prefer how the dual mass drove.

when shifting from 4th to 5th and 5th to 4th and im too slow on my shift and let the RPMs drop too much the truck jerks.
 
#17 ·
I have found that driving with the exhaust brake on auto eases a lot of the driveline shock of the brake between shifts