Hi Guys and Gals, I'm still a newbie to the CF but what an education you have given me. Thanks.
I just replaced both axle seals on the truck three weeks ago and wanted to tell you my experience. I started the job on a Thursday and finished it on the Saturday. The local Dodge dealer was not helpful as they want you to be dependent on them.
question 1. Does anyone know of any manufacturer of the inner axle seals that we can buy an after market inner axle seal?
question 2. Who out there has done this on their own trucks?
Point number one. If it's worth doin', it's worth doin' poorly the first time.
Point number two. Don't live by point number one.
After getting it all apart make sure you put the seals in straight. Apparently I must have twisted the one because immediately upon completion its started peeing on the ground so I had to do it again but wait a week due to a course that I was taking. All I'm going to say now is that I have a whole new respect for the front end on the Dodge. Dips*** engineers that decided to put the axle seals right next to the main front diff instead of out where it would be easy to access??? Oh well. If you want any pointers here are my thoughts.
If your front seals are leaking,
1) Determine how much they are leaking buy measuring the amount they drip/weep with a cup over the course of a week.
2) Once you have to start adding gear oil to the front diff on a weekly/biweekly basis because of the amount that is is leaking then you may want to tackle the seals.
3) Buy two axle seals from anyone but Dodge if you can. $90.00 for the pair vs adding gear oil at $8.00 per litre. you do the math on payback versus time for the job.
4) Buy two grease-able front U-joints at the same time as you have to completely remove the axle's to R&R the seals and it is very likely that they have not yet been done. FYI Dodge doesn't sell a grease-able U-joint.
5) Have the right tools to remove the main axle shaft nut and be able to re-torque it to 265/285 ft lbs. I used a 3/4 inch drive 39 inch long ratchet.
6) Once it is all apart and you are ready to remove the main gear. Take a punch and mark the bearing adjusters to show you where they need to be once you reassemble. Bearing caps need to be marked left and right as you are not to switch them around
7) Bearing adjusters will turn clockwise and counter clockwise depending on which side you start with. Count how many turns till the gear comes out and mark it down. This will save you having to adjust bearing backlash when reassembling.
8) R&R bearing axle seals. I used a 1"7/8 socket to tap the new seals in.
9) Install main gear and bring bearing adjusters back into place by counting the turns as this will then get your back lash back to where it was before.
10) Reassemble everything and torque to specs.
Hope this gives you a little heads up on how big a job it is but worth while to have no more seeping front axle seals.
Cheers, Arnie
I just replaced both axle seals on the truck three weeks ago and wanted to tell you my experience. I started the job on a Thursday and finished it on the Saturday. The local Dodge dealer was not helpful as they want you to be dependent on them.
question 1. Does anyone know of any manufacturer of the inner axle seals that we can buy an after market inner axle seal?
question 2. Who out there has done this on their own trucks?
Point number one. If it's worth doin', it's worth doin' poorly the first time.
Point number two. Don't live by point number one.
After getting it all apart make sure you put the seals in straight. Apparently I must have twisted the one because immediately upon completion its started peeing on the ground so I had to do it again but wait a week due to a course that I was taking. All I'm going to say now is that I have a whole new respect for the front end on the Dodge. Dips*** engineers that decided to put the axle seals right next to the main front diff instead of out where it would be easy to access??? Oh well. If you want any pointers here are my thoughts.
If your front seals are leaking,
1) Determine how much they are leaking buy measuring the amount they drip/weep with a cup over the course of a week.
2) Once you have to start adding gear oil to the front diff on a weekly/biweekly basis because of the amount that is is leaking then you may want to tackle the seals.
3) Buy two axle seals from anyone but Dodge if you can. $90.00 for the pair vs adding gear oil at $8.00 per litre. you do the math on payback versus time for the job.
4) Buy two grease-able front U-joints at the same time as you have to completely remove the axle's to R&R the seals and it is very likely that they have not yet been done. FYI Dodge doesn't sell a grease-able U-joint.
5) Have the right tools to remove the main axle shaft nut and be able to re-torque it to 265/285 ft lbs. I used a 3/4 inch drive 39 inch long ratchet.
6) Once it is all apart and you are ready to remove the main gear. Take a punch and mark the bearing adjusters to show you where they need to be once you reassemble. Bearing caps need to be marked left and right as you are not to switch them around
7) Bearing adjusters will turn clockwise and counter clockwise depending on which side you start with. Count how many turns till the gear comes out and mark it down. This will save you having to adjust bearing backlash when reassembling.
8) R&R bearing axle seals. I used a 1"7/8 socket to tap the new seals in.
9) Install main gear and bring bearing adjusters back into place by counting the turns as this will then get your back lash back to where it was before.
10) Reassemble everything and torque to specs.
Hope this gives you a little heads up on how big a job it is but worth while to have no more seeping front axle seals.
Cheers, Arnie
