You might get lucky and be ok. In the future you really need to measure rotational torque prior to removing the yoke. I know its a pain but I personally just got done rebuilding my front diff that started howling about 80k miles after I replaced a seal because I didn't take the time to do it right.

 

Dang!

 

You commented in my thread I made a while back about the pinion seal replacements.

This link is for the front...

AAM 11.5 and 9.5 Axles, Pinion Seal Replacement Procedures

AAM 11.5 and 9.25 Axles, Pinion Seal Replacement Procedures Hey All; So I've neglected a rear pinion seal replacement for a while, it's leaking down the pumpkin and making the bottom wet but it isn't dripping on the driveway yet. The front is the same. I purchased both the front and rear seal...

www.cumminsforum.com

Post 39 is the rear.

Post 33 has the specs from AAM.

You want the correct preoad running torque.

 

If it makes you feel any better my rear diff is still going strong

 

I did mine over 3 years ago, basically the same way you did, but I did mark and count the number of turns, So far so good.

 

What would be my best course of action here? I didn't count anything. I did feel the drag on it and when I tightened the nut I gave it a tad bit more drag to compensate for the seal drag.

 

If it were mine and only doing the seal I would run it.
Others have done the same as I did.

AAM 11.5 and 9.5 Axles, Pinion Seal Replacement Procedures

AAM 11.5 and 9.25 Axles, Pinion Seal Replacement Procedures Hey All; So I've neglected a rear pinion seal replacement for a while, it's leaking down the pumpkin and making the bottom wet but it isn't dripping on the driveway yet. The front is the same. I purchased both the front and rear seal...

www.cumminsforum.com

 

Yes the count n pray has worked for people. I wanted to know what it took to get to the appropriate running torque. I could have probably done that, but without measuring the running torque I would have put it back together and it would have been under the spec (I measured prior and have 0 in-lb).

If you have to means to check, then mine as well do it properly, it doesn't take any longer you're just checking along the way.

It would have bugged me not knowing where they were at though.

 

So total rotational torque should fall into the 25 to 45 inch pound range?

 

Yeah, If I had all those proper tools, I would do it as you did.
But at my age, I couldn't see buying tools that would probably be a 1-time use.

 

For the record I did count and mark my yoke on both my diffs and the front failed. If anybody is dead set on using that method in the future at the very least when you reassemble everything you need to tighten past your original mark or you will have little to no preload on the bearings.

You can get an inexpensive pier and beam wrench online.

If I recall correctly its 25-45 with the axles out and the carrier still in and 10-20 with just the pinion in the case with the 9.25aa

 

Differential Set-Up Specifications | West Coast Differentials

Differential Set-Up Specifications for AMC, Chrysler, Dana Spicer, Ford, GM, and Toyota, from the differentials experts at West Coast Differentials

www.differentials.com

 

Well, the inner seals need changed also so I guess I'll be busy. I have a couple of weeks while the transmission is being rebuilt by Jon at Dynamic.

Still better than a new pickup payment! 😉

Thanks again!

 

I am pretty sure chrysler only used the 9 1/4aa in the front of these trucks. I double checked the specs from the FSM on 9 1/4aa.

15-25 in lbs New pinion bearing preload
10-20 in lbs Original pinion bearing preload
30-50 in lbs New pinion bearing + Carrier side bearing preload
25-45 in lbs Original pinion bearing + Carrier side bearing preload

You would be fine running west coast specs aswell but they dont mention a spec for a in lbs measurement with the carrier installed. IIRC west coast likes to run a lot more side bearing preload than the FSM.