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engine is blown. what do I do next? swap a used engine?

10K views 96 replies 20 participants last post by  Tiger18  
#1 ·
you may have seen my earlier thread . well, I finally got back home to Colorado where my truck is, and got my truck properly diagnosed by a good diesel mechanic. I was correct that it wasn't the injectors. mechanic found bearing material in the oil filter. he says it's rod bearings (at least), which has been my assumption from the beginning. it has all the signs of rod bearing failure.

mechanic says an "upgraded stock" rebuild with ARP studs and a better cam and crankshaft is $16k. "tow build" for $18k (i'm unclear on the difference, didn't ask for the specs on that). I called some other shops that don't specialize in diesels and got estimates of $8k-$10k for a totally stock rebuild. the good diesel mechanic back in my hometown in south carolina says $8k for a slightly upgraded rebuild, but it would cost me $1500 to get it towed back there.

truck is super clean but from what I can tell it's only worth $15k-$18k running, so putting $8k-$16k into an engine right after I put like $6k into a new front end and wheels and tires seems stupid. I don't need a diesel anymore and TBH i'm ******* sick of this truck and just want to get rid of it in the least expensive way possible.

i've rebuilt motorcycle engines before, but not recently. is it feasible to rebuild it myself? should I just buy a running used engine and swap it in? sell it as it sits?

I'm buying another truck this week but I need to get rid of this dodge in the smartest way possible sooner than later. I'd like to rebuild it for the experience but also I want as much money back out of it as possible.
 
#5 ·
If you can follow instructions, you can build an engine. At the same time, you dont DONT {EDIT} need to drop that kind of coin. Odds are the crank is good, you may be able to get away with a bearing r&r. Pull the pan and a couple caps, you'll know everything you need to know. If you use to rebuild and engine, you have the foundation to do this. And there are a bunch of us smartyasses here to help-ish. Seriously, you can do it with minimal tools too.
 
#9 ·
In frame overhaul is an interesting idea, but if you're gonna do new pistons or rings, than the engine needs to come out and be sent to the machine shop for proper honing/bore measurement.

I say build a nice engine yourself and keep this truck, unless it is an issue of time.
 
#10 ·
In frame overhaul is an interesting idea, but if you're gonna do new pistons or rings, than the engine needs to come out and be sent to the machine shop for proper honing/bore measurement.

I say build a nice engine yourself and keep this truck, unless it is an issue of time.
If you lose a bearing and the cylinder walls are not scored, you can ball hone the cylinder 1 - 4 from the top and 5 - 6 from under neath. Not everyone has an engine hoist, or a way to pull the engine, in some cases its easier to cut the front support and weld it back in later. In this case it does sound like its only a bottom end issue, as long as the crank is good, replace the bearings, do an oil flush and go on about business as usual until the next thing breaks.
 
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#11 ·
His mechanic said he found bearing material in the oil filter. Easier to remove oil pan and check bearings and crank. If crank is bad. Yes pull the engine, and do a proper build.
 
#13 ·
That's right, and if he didn't throw a rod then he should be able to do a bearing R&R in frame. Replacing a crank in frame isn't fun but doable.
 
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#17 ·
no blowby. no oil consumption. has good power. fwiw trans was rebuilt at 185k with billet parts. I just got done rebuilding and upgrading the ENTIRE front end and replacing all the suspension parts other than the rear leaf springs and shackles. I'm just so sick of this goddamn truck. every time I fix something on it, i get about 1k miles before I have to fix something else. I'd like to build the engine just because I'm bored and would like a project but otherwise I'm fed up with this truck and trust it about as far as I can throw it.
 
#14 ·
Like he said he has a lot of money into his truck. I'd wouldn't give up on the truck. Diagnosed by a good diesel mechanic, maybe he could talk to him about dropping oil pan and see what's going on. Maybe be an easy fix.
 
#18 ·
Might consider finding a newer model wrecked truck with a 6.7 Cummins in it and swap that in, plenty of info on here with people that have done it.
 
#21 ·
Selling it for parts, will take forever. Selling it with a engine knock, will get low balled, because engine need's a rebuild. The fastest way to sell it, talk to a auto wrecker in your area.
 
#27 ·
you may have seen my earlier thread . well, I finally got back home to Colorado where my truck is, and got my truck properly diagnosed by a good diesel mechanic. I was correct that it wasn't the injectors. mechanic found bearing material in the oil filter. he says it's rod bearings (at least), which has been my assumption from the beginning. it has all the signs of rod bearing failure.

mechanic says an "upgraded stock" rebuild with ARP studs and a better cam and crankshaft is $16k. "tow build" for $18k (i'm unclear on the difference, didn't ask for the specs on that). I called some other shops that don't specialize in diesels and got estimates of $8k-$10k for a totally stock rebuild. the good diesel mechanic back in my hometown in south carolina says $8k for a slightly upgraded rebuild, but it would cost me $1500 to get it towed back there.

truck is super clean but from what I can tell it's only worth $15k-$18k running, so putting $8k-$16k into an engine right after I put like $6k into a new front end and wheels and tires seems stupid. I don't need a diesel anymore and TBH i'm *** sick of this truck and just want to get rid of it in the least expensive way possible.

i've rebuilt motorcycle engines before, but not recently. is it feasible to rebuild it myself? should I just buy a running used engine and swap it in? sell it as it sits?

I'm buying another truck this week but I need to get rid of this dodge in the smartest way possible sooner than later. I'd like to rebuild it for the experience but also I want as much money back out of it as possible.
Sorry to hear that you need a new engine. How many miles are on your truck? I will say that 16k-18k seems really expensive to me, and if they are telling you that you may want to price out parts just for comparison reasons, that way you can kind of gage if you are getting a fair deal or not. Obviously this is just parts and not labor but it will get you with in range.

With that, diesels engine work is not cheap, but your also not building a rocket ship either. I'm a backyard mechanic myself and if it were me and had the time, I may opt to do the rebuild myself or buy a crate motor from a reputable supplier, at least.

If you do this on your own I would recommend getting the block cleaned and resurfaced, to include the exhaust side. That's more money but it would be worth it to me.

I don't have the backstory on your motor but it may need an overhaul assuming the crank/cam are in good shape. If your CP3, injectors are in good shape you may be ok with a $1500 overhaul kit. Full disclaimer I'm not a diesel mechanic but I own a 5.9 cummins and have done a lot of work to it and will be doing injectors soon. At the end of the day, it's not terribly different from other gas engines aside from the Fuel system, but if you feel like you have the time and mechanical ability, I'd say go for it.

Best of luck.
 
#28 ·
Sorry to hear that you need a new engine. How many miles are on your truck? I will say that 16k-18k seems really expensive to me, and if they are telling you that you may want to price out parts just for comparison reasons, that way you can kind of gage if you are getting a fair deal or not. Obviously this is just parts and not labor but it will get you with in range.

With that, diesels engine work is not cheap, but your also not building a rocket ship either. I'm a backyard mechanic myself and if it were me and had the time, I may opt to do the rebuild myself or buy a crate motor from a reputable supplier, at least.

If you do this on your own I would recommend getting the block cleaned and resurfaced, to include the exhaust side. That's more money but it would be worth it to me.

I don't have the backstory on your motor but it may need an overhaul assuming the crank/cam are in good shape. If your CP3, injectors are in good shape you may be ok with a $1500 overhaul kit. Full disclaimer I'm not a diesel mechanic but I own a 5.9 cummins and have done a lot of work to it and will be doing injectors soon. At the end of the day, it's not terribly different from other gas engines aside from the Fuel system, but if you feel like you have the time and mechanical ability, I'd say go for it.

Best of luck.

205k. $16k is with some upgraded internals and from the top mechanic in my area. standard stock rebuild from other mechanics is $8k.
 
#32 ·
Find a good 6.7 long block out of a wrecked 07.5-15 ram. Can be easier to find & cheaper than a 5.9.
I bought one a few years back complete minus turbo. Only paid $2500 CAD & had only 224k Km’s on it.
swap all the external parts & ECMoff the 5.9. If you are MY03-04.5, you can use your current injectors if they test good.
What year is your truck?
 
#33 ·
Find a good 6.7 long block out of a wrecked 07.5-15 ram. Can be easier to find & cheaper than a 5.9.
I bought one a few years back complete minus turbo. Only paid $2500 CAD & had only 224k Km’s on it.
swap all the external parts & ECMoff the 5.9. If you are MY03-04.5, you can use your current injectors if they test good.
What year is your truck?
05
 
#39 ·
so, FWIW, i talked to the mechanic that quoted me $17k. he says the price includes ARP studs, a new stock turbo, new oil cooler, new stock bosch injectors, a colt cams stage 3 big stick cam, etc etc etc full rebuild, whereas the $8k quote was just a stock rebuild and didn't include injectors or turbo etc.
 
#43 ·
Well you're not in a panic about pricing, or at least that's how it seems. You have to ask yourself, do you need a massive build or a daily? The rest will take care of itself. Or build it yourself and fall somewhere in between. FWIW you should get a second opinion on the damage to the engine.
 
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#42 ·
ME!!! I can do the reach around & squeeze my nipple at the same time. At least I’m not getting screwed lol
 
#46 ·
why did your engine fail...??? do you have a idea of what happened? 205k is nothing for a properly maintained and stock motor... your mechanics quote is insane, he does not have $9k in upgraded parts over a stock rebuild, the labor is the same... is he going to warranty all the performance parts? most shops doing performance mods will not stand behind the parts because they are for racing or performance driving... personally I would stay away from these types of builders, there are shops that just build diesels motors, all brands, and do all the machining, assembly and breakin in house, however a lot of them don't do R&R... and give you a good warranty...
 
#47 ·
ME!!! I can do the reach around & squeeze my nipple at the same time. At least I’m not getting screwed lol
lol. thanks for the laugh. I'm usually my own mechanic so I guess I'll be doing the same LOL

Well you're not in a panic about pricing, or at least that's how it seems. You have to ask yourself, do you need a massive build or a daily? The rest will take care of itself. Or build it yourself and fall somewhere in between. FWIW you should get a second opinion on the damage to the engine.
i'm not hiring him. he's got super good reviews and clearly knows what he's talking about, and he's been very cool to me so far, didn't charge for the diag, did things when he said he would, etc, but the price is too high. I'll prob just build it myself. I was just pointing out becuase people asked, that his price included a new turbo, new injectors, new cam, etc etc. TBH i'm still kind of on the fence whether i'm going to rebuild it for longevity and keep it, or rebuild it simple and sell it. I'm getting a second opinion on monday. i'm prob going to buy a more reliable, better mpg AWD car for a daily and take my time with the dodge.

why did your engine fail...??? do you have a idea of what happened? 205k is nothing for a properly maintained and stock motor... your mechanics quote is insane, he does not have $9k in upgraded parts over a stock rebuild, the labor is the same... is he going to warranty all the performance parts? most shops doing performance mods will not stand behind the parts because they are for racing or performance driving... personally I would stay away from these types of builders, there are shops that just build diesels motors, all brands, and do all the machining, assembly and breakin in house, however a lot of them don't do R&R... and give you a good warranty...
no idea. TBF, his price includes a new turbo and new injectors, new oil cooler, etc, which the other one didn't, so that's several thousand in parts. but it's still high. I dont know about the warranty, i didnt ask because his price is too high for me. I'm prob just going to buy a rebuild kit and do it myself.
 
#48 ·
lol. thanks for the laugh. I'm usually my own mechanic so I guess I'll be doing the same LOL



i'm not hiring him. he's got super good reviews and clearly knows what he's talking about, and he's been very cool to me so far, didn't charge for the diag, did things when he said he would, etc, but the price is too high. I'll prob just build it myself. I was just pointing out becuase people asked, that his price included a new turbo, new injectors, new cam, etc etc. TBH i'm still kind of on the fence whether i'm going to rebuild it for longevity and keep it, or rebuild it simple and sell it. I'm getting a second opinion on monday. i'm prob going to buy a more reliable, better mpg AWD car for a daily and take my time with the dodge.



no idea. TBF, his price includes a new turbo and new injectors, new oil cooler, etc, which the other one didn't, so that's several thousand in parts. but it's still high. I dont know about the warranty, i didnt ask because his price is too high for me. I'm prob just going to buy a rebuild kit and do it myself.
Yeah that's a lot of $$$ for sure, I missed the adding a new turbo, they get pricey... almost impossible to do a in-frame on a 4th gen, not sure about a 3rd gen... best to pull the motor, and either rebuild or send it out... my 4bt I bought a couple years for a swap was rebuilt by a company that has been in business for over 40 years and diesels is all they do, the previous owner had it done, but ended up selling his swap jeep, so I picked it for a decent price, if you can find a rebuilder that does everything in house, it might be worth looking into and do the R&R yourself, especially if your going to need the crank and or block machined... most shops send there motors out for machine work anyways...
 
#49 ·
If you are going to rebuild, do it right and pull the engine. You will need to have your crank turned. I've seen ads from rebuilders on c list selling rebuilt long blocks for around $3500. Get a warranty ect. Unless your set up to handle the weight of a Cummins, I would suggest calling around to local shops for the install. You might even find a machine shop that can rebuild your motor and install in CO. Cummins hold their value, so you not throwing money into the wind.