Pretty much hit the nail on the head. the easiest way to delete the egr is to order a kit from K2 Diesel. Kit comes with everything needed, including new gaskets for around $70 Bucks. There are step by step pictures on egr removal in the 6.7 liter tech article section.

 

yea,ive been reading up on all this stuff,seems like lots of people are doing that.i work in a machine shop as a machinist so i can make all the stuff easy enough.just want to do the right thing here,just hit 9,000 miles on it.i guess the high temp permatex would be fine for the plates and reseal the housing??.and on the tube to the cooler can it be plugged on both ends or plug the other sides and reinstalled??

 

For the plates just reuse the gaskets. And for the tube a freeze plug works.
Here is one good thread about it.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6...com/forum/6-7l-performance-parts-discussion/132043-egr-delete-i-m-believer.html

And then here is another one.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6-7l-powertrain/101458-egr-dpf-deletes-budget.html

Hope this helps.

 

Here's alittle update from my end after unplugging for about 200 miles. The truck runs fine with the exception of the EB sometimes being really jerky and unpredictable, and there was alittle bit better mileage observed in the neighborhood of around 1mpg increase. Now comes the bad news....

I used to be a salesman at the dodge house and I became good friends with some of the techs. I just went down there today and asked him what unplugging the EGR would do. Now while he agrees that it will limit the soot on the intake, he also said that the EGR cooler will eventually backup and cause back pressure on the truck and can kill the engine. So as I quote exactly what I asked him "so your telling me that if I'm gonna mess with anything I just need to delete it all together?" His answer was "Yep"

With this being said, I've heard some people claiming that the EB was staying on while it was turned off and apparently in reality it wasn't the EB it was the cooler backing up and creating back pressure which is identical to what the EB does.

So, with 2000 miles on my truck I will plug my EGR back in and keep it plugged in until it either screws up under warranty or the warranty runs out and I just do the deletes.

Now that we have alittle more information on the topic of EGR I think we can make some educated statements.

1. The EGR unplug does in fact cause the EGR Valve to stay closed which will result in backing up the EGR cooler over time.

2. When the vehicle goes into regen with the EGR unplugged it can sometimes cause loss of power, this is acheived by the intake butterfly closing off cool fresh air to increase temps needed for regen, which means that the truck is being starved of air and has loss of power. This also means that some of the regens aren't completing correctly and could be causing the constant regens.

 

Cooler Backpressure?

The bit about the cooler clogging up and creating backpressure does not make sense to me. Even if it were completely clogged, it would still not be as sealed as the blockoff plates provide. The exhaust takes the path of least resistance, through the turbo and out the back.

Am I missing something here?

I know with the cooler gone the exhaust brake seems to provide more stopping power, presumably due to the fact that gases can no longer find their way back to my intake.

 

im confused do it or dont do it lol......has anyone had problems with hesitation or skip between shifting gears,thats what my truck was doing until i unplugged it.runs like never before now but.......hesitant on the egr delete with all the mixed feedback on this.maybe i need a flash or something on the computer.i took it to the shop with only 4,000 miles on it for this issue,they said it was nothing just the nature of the 6.7.when i unplugged it later after coming on this site and hearing info on it.it has been fine since then.but afraid of what its doing to it

 

My tech said if your gonna mess with anything to just delete the whole thing cooler and all.

 

There have been a variety of results on EGR unplugged, blocked and full deletes. I'm presently running EGR unplugged only. There is just a wee bit of leakage. This is good in that it keeps the EGR from rusting up as we have seen in blocked off only mode. I was running unplugged with a freeze plug blocking the crossover tube. This works well too. It does again leave the possibiliy of rusting the EGR, IMHO. I know the bolt I had on the plug did.
I ran for over 5000 miles with just EGR unplugged prior to blocking. Then after the latest dealer work have been unplugged only again for the last 500 without issue. I am also code clearing this time. I seem to be getting better performance and economy that way.
If you are concerned about warranty, I suggest NOT using any gasket sealer unless you really need it. That is a clear track left behind of tampering. Fresh gaskets should do.

 

My truck runs fine with it unplugged and no doubt has better mileage, hell I'd puke too if I was drinkin dirty water.

dad2bike do you periodically plug it back in the EGR to clean it out?

 

No. There is plenty of leakage to keep things "clean." I'm considering installing the blocking plates and tube block to totally take it out of the loop. I'll keep it clean in a box. I've got a kit that came with the used TBE I have. Never used it.

 

I ran mine unplugged for about 10,000 miles no problems. Deleted everything 2 weeks ago and the consensus was all my stuff was really clean compared to the others the he had done and seen. 64,000 total miles