the whole point of an exhaust brake is to push pressure back into the engine and use that pressure on the top of the pistons to help slow the truck down without using the wheel brakes as much.

sounds like your dealership's parts-replacer is confused.

additionally, we call that thing an "exhaust brake" but in reality it's more like a turbo vane brake. the computer uses the variable slider to lock the exhaust side of the turbo into the low-rpm setting to restrict flow through the turbo. a proper exhaust brake is a butterfly valve in the exhaust pipe (usually either the downpipe or as close to it as practical) which impedes exhaust that way. same net effect but more reliable, as the electronics are farther downstream from the engine (since electronics don't like heat).

if you need to leave the EGR stuff for visual inspection, grab a couple dorman freeze plugs and stick 'em in the crossover tube so there is zero pressure bleed across to your intake. however, the most effective way of eliminating the engine breathing its own poo and the associated problems therewith is to completely remove the stuff and tune the engine appropriately.

check out this thread; there's a bunch of helpful info in here when considering which, if any, level of "delete" is right for you:

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/0...-3rd-gen-6-7l-powertrain/99081-6-7-egr-test-results-finally-completed-read.html

hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the info and link El Pozz!

 

In a sense the guy at the dealer is not too far off, in a sense the EGR can act as a wastegate.

 

thank you for that information I'm going to remove the egr and get a sinister kit. what do you recommend for a tuner to keep the egr light off. don't need to increase horsepower but don't want to hurt the motor bye removing the egr

 

I have the same truck and just installed a Sinister EGR delete kit for the same reasons. I went with the full delete kit and an H&S minimax. After looking through all of the information on most of the tuners that allow the engine to be programmed to ignore the EGR codes I found that the H&S brand had the most positive reviews. The install was pretty straight forward but make sure you have plenty of PB Blaster or similar for the bolts on the engine as the heat and grime will cause them to stick and snapping one off would be a bad day. It took me about 3hrs to install the whole kit on the engine and everything lined up perfectly. I have had a smoother running truck and have about 5,000 miles on it and no CHK ENGINE LIGHT anymore. The only issue I am having is a coolant leak on the return pipe and hose fitting from the sinister kit to the factory plumbing. With 118,000 miles on the truck I would say the hose is worn out as I had no leaks until recently. I researched multiple kits and the Sinister kit was my choice because it rerouted the coolant to still function rather than capping or deleting it from the system. There are a lot of the horsepower functions that do not apply to my use of the truck but the ability to add accessories for engine, transmission and exhaust monitoring was a plus with the H&S. If you haven't looked yet, I would check out advancediesel.net and the customer service and parts department was excellent.

 

Updating the status on the delete kit and the small leak from the coolant hose. I have had zero issues with the kit and have started using some of the other monitoring functions for the engine and it has been great to be able to see what is going on with the truck. Also, I tried for three months to get ahold of customer support for the hose leak and could not get sinister on the phone or email. I ended up taking the hose off of the fitting and found the issue, which was the original O-ring at install. The O-ring had been pinched during the install and this created the leak. Since I was not able to get ahold of customer support I went looking for a replacement and found one at home depot. The part is a #215 O-Ring. (1" O.D. x 3/4" I.D. x 1/8") You can get a pack of 10 for about $2.50. I thought that if this was a recurring issue I would have plenty of replacements and the fix is a ten minutes repair. I am happy to say that the O-ring has performed flawlessly and I have had no leaks since replacing the pinched O-ring. Truck and kit still running strong with 159,870 miles on the vehicle.