Can't say much about that but I'm sure someone will chime in but I just took my airbags off my truck cause I tow practically never and I'll give you a good deal if you end up wanting them just need new bolts

 

First off skip the dry weight meaningless number. Use ONLY the GVWR of the trailer and try to fit within the trailer towing capacity of the truck. The thing is airbag do not increase the carrying capacity nor is suggest to exceed the carrying capacity of the truck. I know there is a lot of guys here that done it but safety of you and others is the big factor.

Like my self I've got a 31' foot Jayco Eagle. But I'm a standard bumper pull trailer so I've got much less hitch weight than most 5th wheels but tows like a dream.

 

You'll be well under your axle and tire weight ratings with the setup you mention. Make sure your toy hauler has dual brakes and you'll be good to go.

Airbags are good for leveling the load if you've got a leveling kit or have enough weight to squat the rear suspension below level. Not necessary otherwise, as was said they don't increase your carry capability. Your limfac is your tires' load capacity on a SRW vehicle.

Gears would make for a more enjoyable towing experience and take some of the strain off your transmission.

This is from real world experience.

 

WITH ALL OF THE ABOVE

FIRST IS SAFETY FOR YOU AND THE OTHERS ON THE ROAD
SECOND IS BRAKING
THIRD IS WITH YOU ALREADY HAVING ENOUGH POWER I WOULD NOT WORRY WITH BAGS I WOULD USE TIMBRENS AS THEY ONLY TAKE OVER WHEN YOU ARE LOADED

 

 

one your truck should be able to pull more the 9k since the gcvw is 20k. so you should subtract your 8800 from 20k which is 11200 lbs. I haul a 38 bighorn 5th wheel max weight of trailer is 15900 which i shouldnt be close and my 2500 hauls it just fine and breaks just fine but i have a manual

i read on here a few time where you take the weight of trailer and its like 20% or 25% of that weight that sits in your bed.

 

i read on here a few time where you take the weight of trailer and its like 20% or 25% of that weight that sits in your bed.

This is rough estimate figure using the 20-25% rule kind of like for my bumper pull its 10-13% on the bumper.

FIRST IS SAFETY FOR YOU AND THE OTHERS ON THE ROAD
SECOND IS BRAKING

So. Right just because you can pull it and stop it in a controlled environment that's fine but get into the real world of hauling in traffic and sudden stops you fine out really quick how much a trailer can change the behavior of a truck. Even my Jayco is GVWR at 8500 pounds and scales out loaded at about 7500 to 7800 pounds. It sure changes the way the truck behaves. Knowing I'm within all specs on weights I'm not worried about the trailer or failures...

But... I have a mind set that says If I hitch up the RV and go somewhere the whole idea of driving speed limits goes out the window. I slow down and take it easy and relax while towing the RV. If I winding through the canyon from New Meadows to Council, ID and the speed limit is 55 MPH I might be as low as 40-45 MPH depending on traffic, road conditions, etc. There is no reason to travel fast and ruin a wonderful trip with a traffic accident or ruining your trailer.

My RV and Specs.
Mopar1973Man's Dodge Cummins Articles - 2000 Jayco Eagle 296 FBS

 

Never pointed the finger at you Beerplay I know better. I was generalizing as well for others but there are some of us well suited for towing like you do and others that think they can tow and turn out to be poor drivers.

 

Just to pick back at Beerplay...

That one wasn't hitched up very level.:rof

 

THAT THING WAS FALLING APART AND CRAP WAS LITERALLY FALLING OFF GOING DOWN THE ROAD.
THE OLD MAN THAT HAD BOUGHT IT GOT SCREWED I SHOWED HIM IN THE BEDROOM CLOSET WHERE THE WATER STAINS WERE AND TOLD HIM THE FRONT CAP HAD BEEN LEAKING FOR A FEW YEARS.
AND YOU ARE RIGHT I EXPLAINED TO HIM HIS KINGPIN WAS ALL THE WAY DOWN AND THE BOLTS WERE RUSTED. I SAID I CAN SOAK THEM THEN BEAK THEM LOOSE WITH MY IMPACT OR TOW IT WITH MAJORITY OF WEIGHT ON REAR AXLE HE DID NOT WANT TO TAKE THE TIME SO I YANKED IT LIKE THAT.
KINDA FELT BAD FOR THE OLD FART BUT I DID NOT BUY IT I JUST TRANSPORTED IT.

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i agree, usually when i tow my 5th wheel i go slow so one i dont have to switch lanes that often and two i like to keep my distance from other cars so i have room to stop.

 

Thanks for the good info guys. I kind of figured the 3.55s were the limiting factor because Dodge rates the same truck with 4.10s with a 2500 lbs higher GCVW. I've talked to some people around the campground about it and everyone seems to think it would be fine. I just wanted to talk to some people with the same truck as me. I haven't towed much with this truck, mostly unloaded miles.

This is probably the heaviest thing I've towed.

I like your truck too Beerplay. Nice looking rig!

 

So getting back on track there is no way to increase carrying capacity of the truck. But you could tow more weight than the truck is designed for. I know a lot of guys do it but also have lots of experience on how to do it safely.

So if it was me. I would look up the specs for you truck and stick to the weight rating as issued by Dodge/Chrysler and you should be able to enjoy good longevity and safe towing experience.

Oh... Most of you have some killer looking trucks... Yea! Beerplay's truck is Bad Ar$e

 

Just in case anybody was curious, this is the camper I'm interested in, will depend of course what kind of deal I can get into come spring time, but I checked out a floor model and really liked it.

Hyperlite Toy Hauler Fifth Wheel by Forest River

 

Just in case anybody was curious, this is the camper I'm interested in,

very pretty!
I am a pipe welder n drag a 5th wheel around a lot. It aint nearly as nice as that. My .02$ on towing. Tires are critical, particularly on a SRW. dont even look at anything less than a 10 ply 3750# bomb proof tank tire. Controlled side wall flex is very important. Also be sure your wheels are plenty wide for the tire size. If the tire manufacture specs a 8 to 10 inch wheel use a 9.5 or 10 that helps control side wall flex and helps run a lot of air with out burning up the center of the tread. Dont use a tire with a tall side wall. If you want a tall tire use a 18" wheel Make sure the wheels are 0 flex bad a$$ truck wheels.

 

Towing

I would skip the airbags, do the 3rd gen front brake upgrade (increases overall stopping power by 10-15% and relatively inexpensive) consider an exhaust brake, and make sure you have good solid E Range tires. I take it slow and am always worried more about stopping. Hope this helps.

 

I would skip the airbags, do the 3rd gen front brake upgrade (increases overall stopping power by 10-15% and relatively inexpensive) consider an exhaust brake, and make sure you have good solid E Range tires. I take it slow and am always worried more about stopping. Hope this helps.

X2s on the brake upgrade I did it and can tell a difference

 

I had airbags on my last truck and will eventually put some on my current ride. The airbags were sturdy and had less bounce while going over bridges and such. Also, you can air them up so that your truck sits level if that may be an issue. I practically live in my camper as well and if your moving all the time and chasing pipeline I don't think you could go wrong with them.

I also agree with everyone that you can't increase your towing capacity!

Or you could get the Timbrens like mentioned above but I don't know much about them.

 

I've got some wheels off a 2012 Laramie big horn 3500 srw I'm putting on here soon. Doing my tire research now.

NCWDave, you should see some of the campers on my spread, my boss has a 4 slide road warrior with a 12 foot garage. My other buddy just bought a new Big Country, it has 2 fire places and a 65" tv! Insane.

 

Beerplay, I like your bumper. What kind is it?

 

JAMIE AT CPP BUILT IT FOR ME

SORRY FOR DERAIL

AND ALSO AGREE WITH THE TIRE STATEMENTS I RUN AN AGRESSIVE TIRE BUT DO NOT RUN ANYTHING LESS THAN E LOAD RANGE

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Well as Mike stated you can't increase the tow rating of your truck, or the GVWR. That said I safely tow over both, I am still well within all axle and tire ratings.
The trailer is an 11,000# 5er with a 2,000# pin weight, I have a NV4500 with 3.55 gears and can climb 6% and 7% grades at 55 to 60 mph. My 2001 came with the Camper package which has one ton springs, while well over GVWR I have close to 1,000# to spare on the rear axle rating, and have no need for air bags, the squat still leaves about an inch before hitting the overloads.
I have fresh ball joints, and Luke's link on the track bar, also have a steering box brace.

I also run a Pacbrake.

This is the rig loaded for a trip.

These are the type of State highways I drive at 55 and 60 mph without worry.

 

Thanks rhagfo. I guess my title is a little misleading as I'm not actually looking to increase my gcvw, but safely tow over it without risk of endangering myself and others or destroying my truck.

 

As a former rv dealer I have to respectfully disagree with Moparman on the trailer gvwr issue. Just because a trailer may have a rating greater than your truck is capable of pulling does not mean you shouldn't pull it. You need to find the actual weight of the rig with all your gear in it. Many builders use heavy axles and wind up with an overall rating (gvwr) that you will not come close to. For instance, I can pull a flat bed loaded with my gear that is thousands of pounds less than the gvwr of the trailer. Builders also lie about dry weight, so take that unit to a scale and get a real weight.

 

As a former rv dealer I have to respectfully disagree with Moparman on the trailer gvwr issue. Just because a trailer may have a rating greater than your truck is capable of pulling does not mean you shouldn't pull it. You need to find the actual weight of the rig with all your gear in it. Many builders use heavy axles and wind up with an overall rating (gvwr) that you will not come close to. For instance, I can pull a flat bed loaded with my gear that is thousands of pounds less than the gvwr of the trailer. Builders also lie about dry weight, so take that unit to a scale and get a real weight.

This comes back to like Beerplay and myself are taking about safety and personal experience. I've got another member I know of that bought 5th wheel toy hauler the same way it exceeded the GVWR and GCWR of the vehicle and he's not a experience tower at all. As a matter of act its the worst experience he had as he explain its was a white knuckle ride. Was that the truck couldn't stop or pull it was getting excessive in weight the enjoyment for the noobie RV owner just went out the window. Now throw Beerplay in the driver seat it wouldn't be any bother to him because of experience of long loads (doubles).

 

Agree, many who are new to towing lack the respect for what they control. 2 words of advise SLOW DOWN.