Is your ac system fully charged?
The compressor should kick on when the defrost is selected.

 

Last I knew the AC work good... not great but it worked! I do hear the compressor cycling on and off on occasion while running the defrost. What would be the best way to check the system being charged? Don't kick me in the balls but when I first ran the AC this summer I did check it with one of the "AC pro" cans...

 

To check it the right way you would need a set of gauges to read the high side and low side pressure and check it aginst the ambient temperature outside.

 

This sounds like a blend door problem to me.... when the blend door is in the incorrect position... it will blend the air with both inside and outside air.... and the air should go through the AC to be cooled and have the moisture pulled out of it... and than through the heater to heat the air....

I'd check the blend door... and see if the drain under the truck on the passenger side is plugged not allowing the excessive moisture (water) to drain..

 

Yes this could also be the issue as well.

 

I usually turn the A/C compressor on once the truck gets up to temp. It helps but isnt a cure all.

 

as above, could be a blend door problem BUT IF everything is working correctly and you still have the problem try cracking the 1 or 2 front windows 1/4"-1/2". This little bit of an opening will force air out of the cab (along with water vapor). Also people getting in and out of the truck with wet winter clothes, boots, etc will not help. Any moisture dragged into the cab will end up on the windows. Push comes to shove tell everyone to shut up!

 

For what it is worth I found my problem! As I had stated was fairly certain it wasn't my heater core as I had no smell, no leaks and no coolant disappearing.

I found out that my recirculating door was stuck in the recirculating mode and not allowing fresh air into the cab! I was able to repair said issue and my fogging problem is in the past!

 

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

In my situation I was fortunate that the servo motor that moves the door must have been misaligned with the door when it was re installed. When you would switch from fresh air to recirc the motor would whine but the door couldn't move as it was already pushed fully in it's direction.

I actually feel as if this wasn't screwed up by someone or a dealer in hopes to get someone to replace the heater core thinking that was the problem! I feel this way because of the door being misaligned but also because there are three screws that are supposed to hold the servo on and there was only two installed in mine... Other thought in this theory is that when I bought my truck it had switched hands three years in a row in the spring.

But yes many end up having to replace the door and the servo at the same time... Fairly simple fix though, if you search on here thats how I found my solution as to how to get to it through the glove box! Also you don't necessarily need to go with the heater treater solution as it is awfully pricy. I had seen the part number for the whole air intake box which includes the box, door and servo for like a third of the heater treater wanted for just their door.

 

there is the part number from amazon for the whole air intake box