I wouldnt want a permanent locked rear end like that for a dd. It would suck to turn with and would ratchet pretty bad on asphalt. An E-locker or air locker would be ok...just aslong as you can unlock it when not in mud or using it as a puller, etc.

 

This is what I was thinking.

I went through the beginner thread and found out my answer to not running a fuel plate. I'm also guessing the 5k gs is governing springs and the 5x18 is 5x.018 injectors. So... Stage 3 250hp-ish? That sound about right?

 

My opinion, which is nothing more than that is that this rig is over built as a daily driver. My rig is probably is the 250ish range and 550ish torque range. Easily capable of towing over 12000. Very drivable. Some more opinion noted below.

1997 Dodge 2500 ext cab long bed
12v Built

port and polished head Unneccessary
bored out 20 over
hamilton cam 210/220 unnecessary
5k gs are you really going to rev that high?
5x18 injectors I understand injectors measured in injector and nozzle size over stock. 165/80, 200/200, etc. What is 5x18?
fly cut cut pistonsunneccessary for a DD
arp head studs
Bottom end 14mm girdleunneccessary for a DD
s400 t4 turbo I'm guessing a s466? What housings are available for your motors?
Ats 3 piece manifold unneccessary for a DD
no fuel plate EGT issues
1/2 fuel lines
built sdx 450 pump
fass pump (150)
dave gorend trans fully built (just went over with 6-20-13) this is good
triple disc torque converter this is great
(with lock up)
fully locked dana 80 Doesn't this make the rear tires chirp in corners? this is bad. It will become very annoying soon
posi locker in the front
built transfer case.
Trac bars
4in turbo back to 7inch mitre stack
Brand new batteries
Bran new alternator
Truck was a southern truck no frame rust or rot


Is there anything alarming in the above mod list? The truck was built 10k ago and the guy selling says it's his DD. I imagine that it's overkill for a DD and that it's probably pretty smokey. He says that it dyno'd at just over 500hp but the dyno operator didn't lock it up like he was supposed to. I'm being told this build should be closer to 600hp. Does this sound right?

I've highlighted the mods that I'm not familiar with. Can I get some clarification?

Thank you

 

I can answer the 5x.018 injector question.

The stock 96-98 automatics come with a 5x.009 injector.
The stock 96-98 5 speeds come with a 5x.01025 injector.

The way to interpret the numbers for that truck is it has 5 holes to spray fuel from at the end of the injector and the holes are .018" that pass the fuel.

Fuel economy drops when you get to a 5x.012 but as some say that is where the fun begins.

If the hp is that high you may find that you have 2 issues. 1 When you step on the throttle in 2wd the tires want to spin. That could make rainy or snowy driving a bit less than pleasant. 2 If you use that hp potential probably some parts will break.

The 5K GSK means it has a 5,000 rpm governor spring kit in it. That is totally nuts for a street truck.

Fly cut cut pistons means the engine was rebuilt. Then the pistons had cuts made in them to allow the valves to go down a bit more without bending when they should have hit the piston.

Bottom end 14mm girdle means they put a block stiffener at the bottom of the motor. This is not needed unless racing. Maybe having it is a good idea on a really big hp motor, I am not sure. It basically is adding a thick block of metal internally about where the oil pan sits.

No fuel plate There is a plate the limits fueling on these trucks. Not having one makes more power. It however also allows EGT's top climb rapidly. Personally I would want one. You can find one for sale on ebay in different configurations. Make sure the AFC was not gutted. It could be and that is not something I would want. Ask if he still has the original parts he took off.

1/2 fuel lines Bigger lines for more fuel flow.

built sdx 450 pump This has to be a bigger aftermarket pump (probably electrical) to send more fuel to the injection pump to get more power.

A fully locked dana 80 and posi locker in the front. Both sound like something you would only want on a race track.

While others who know more than I do hopefully will chime in this truck sounds like a dedicated racer to me. A posi locker up front could make steering much more difficult going around a corner. A locked rear axle will eat your tires.

 

Please see notes below

I can answer the 5x.018 injector question.

The stock 96-98 automatics come with a 5x.009 injector.
The stock 96-98 5 speeds come with a 5x.01025 injector.

The way to interpret the numbers for that truck is it has 5 holes to spray fuel from at the end of the injector and the holes are .018" that pass the fuel.So, potentially the truck is flowing 2x the amount of fuel? Assuming the pump, lines, etc can maintain.

Fuel economy drops when you get to a 5x.012 but as some say that is where the fun begins.

If the hp is that high you may find that you have 2 issues. 1 When you step on the throttle in 2wd the tires want to spin. That could make rainy or snowy driving a bit less than pleasant. 2 If you use that hp potential probably some parts will break.

The 5K GSK means it has a 5,000 rpm governor spring kit in it. That is totally nuts for a street truck.I agree, insane. I would never see that high rpm

Fly cut cut pistons means the engine was rebuilt. Then the pistons had cuts made in them to allow the valves to go down a bit more without bending when they should have hit the piston. Thank you for the explanation

Bottom end 14mm girdle means they put a block stiffener at the bottom of the motor. This is not needed unless racing. Maybe having it is a good idea on a really big hp motor, I am not sure. It basically is adding a thick block of metal internally about where the oil pan sits. I'm familiar with this but have only ever referred to it as filling the block.

No fuel plate There is a plate the limits fueling on these trucks. Not having one makes more power. It however also allows EGT's top climb rapidly. Personally I would want one. You can find one for sale on ebay in different configurations. Make sure the AFC was not gutted. It could be and that is not something I would want. Ask if he still has the original parts he took off.I may want to install one to detune the truck a bit, depending on how laggy that turbo is

1/2 fuel lines Bigger lines for more fuel flow.

built sdx 450 pump This has to be a bigger aftermarket pump (probably electrical) to send more fuel to the injection pump to get more power.

A fully locked dana 80 and posi locker in the front. Both sound like something you would only want on a race track.

While others who know more than I do hopefully will chime in this truck sounds like a dedicated racer to me. A posi locker up front could make steering much more difficult going around a corner. A locked rear axle will eat your tires.

Thank you for the help. I'm guessing this was a dedicated high hp truck for racing or pulling. I'm not sure how the guy uses it as a DD but he does. The price is just so good on it I"m not sure I can pass. 160k miles, no rust, clean body and interior, and I imagine about 10k in motor work (Is that about right?). What would you pay?

There's no mention of a tuner installed. Is there anybody that's a favorite around here. Would they be able to detune the truck?

 

The money he would want for it, you could probably buy a virgin and modify it to your liking alot cheaper. The nicest part about getting a virgin truck is learning how to modify it. I didn't know that much about diesels before I got this truck.
It sounds like you are not too familiar with the 12v being that you asked about a tuner. A 12 valve cummins is a purely mechanical motor. This is a good thing.
By the sound of things, this truck would not be pleasant to drive around town and more than likely it would become really annoying.
You could de-modify the rig.
Besides all that, the previous owner did those mods and then guess what...he probably beat the crap out of it. You wouldnt modify it like that if you werent going to use it.

Find an unmodified virgin truck.

 

I'm thinking about buying it, driving it for a month or so, and then selling it. If you could buy it for 14k, would you? (Not literally, of course)

 

"So, potentially the truck is flowing 2x the amount of fuel? Assuming the pump, lines, etc can maintain."

No, It would flow a LOT more than 2 times the amount of fuel. When you double the size of a pipe it can flow a lot more than double the amount of the half size pipe. I forget the math but doubling the diameter does a lot more than double the capacity.

 

If you double the diameter it increases the area 4x

That truck would suck to drive on the street

 

You buy different injectors or trade for different ones. While you can swap nozzles on injectors for more or less fuel the injectors then need to be pop-tested. generally speaking swapping is simpler, easier, and costs no more.

You could swap out for different axles also and sell the ones in it for perhaps a bit more $$$ than what you buy to replace them.

 

I don't know much about Cummins because I've driven Powerstrokes my whole life. As you can imagine, they're quite different and understanding modifications is proving difficult. I'm looking at a 97 with 160k on it. The mods are below:


1997 Dodge 2500 ext cab long bed
12v Built

port and polished head going to help spool and drivability
bored out 20 over Slight increase in displacement will help spool and driveability
hamilton cam 210/220 also going to help spool and driveabiliy but is quite large and will make power to 4500 rpm with the correct timing
5k gs Nothing wrong with this just because you have it doesn't mean you will use it
5x18 injectors I understand injectors measured in injector and nozzle size over stock. 165/80, 200/200, etc. What is 5x18? A 5x18 is capable of 1000 hp with the right air and injection pump
fly cut cut pistons This will reduce compression ratio and hurt driveabilty but was done so that the large cam could be used.
arp head studs
Bottom end 14mm girdle This is needed to keep high rpm engines alive longer and stiffen the bottom end. I has no effect on daily driving
s400 t4 turbo I'm guessing a s466? What housings are available for your motors? Could be anything from a 65mm to a 91mm with a turbine from 83mm to 96 mm need more info to tell if its going to be lag city or not.
Ats 3 piece manifold
no fuel plate Not a big deal and fairly common on a 12mm(factory) pump
1/2 fuel lines
built sdx 450 pump Im guessing this means the pump has been benched and is set at 450cc which is a very drivable amount and is approx 900ish hp worth of fuel more with spray
fass pump (150)
dave gorend trans fully built (just went over with 6-20-13) Great transmission builder
triple disc torque converter
(with lock up)
fully locked dana 80 Doesn't this make the rear tires chirp in corners? I have a fully locked rear end in my truck and turning radius sucks but its not really noticed on the street, a limited slip would be better down the road though.
posi locker in the front
built transfer case.
Trac bars
4in turbo back to 7inch mitre stack
Brand new batteries
Bran new alternator
Truck was a southern truck no frame rust or rot


Is there anything alarming in the above mod list? The truck was built 10k ago and the guy selling says it's his DD. I imagine that it's overkill for a DD and that it's probably pretty smokey. He says that it dyno'd at just over 500hp but the dyno operator didn't lock it up like he was supposed to. I'm being told this build should be closer to 600hp. Does this sound right?

I've highlighted the mods that I'm not familiar with. Can I get some clarification?

Thank you

Over all sounds like a poorly tuned truck with the right parts. With some better tuning and knowing what turbo it has it could be a decent daily driver. Putting some twins on it and changing the rear end would make it a good daily driver. With similar mods and a gt4202 I was getting 18-19 mpg on the highway. It comes down to what you think is drive-able on the street, every one has a different idea of this.

 

Your reply was great. Thanks for answering each question

 

1997 Dodge 2500 ext cab long bed
12v Built

port and polished head
bored out 20 over
hamilton cam 210/220
5k gs
5x18 injectors I understand injectors measured in injector and nozzle size over stock. 165/80, 200/200, etc. What is 5x18?
fly cut cut pistons
arp head studs
Bottom end 14mm girdle
s400 t4 turbo I'm guessing a s466? What housings are available for your motors?
Ats 3 piece manifold
no fuel plate
1/2 fuel lines
built sdx 450 pump
fass pump (150)
dave gorend trans fully built (just went over with 6-20-13)
triple disc torque converter
(with lock up)
fully locked dana 80 Doesn't this make the rear tires chirp in corners?
posi locker in the front
built transfer case.
Trac bars
4in turbo back to 7inch mitre stack
Brand new batteries
Bran new alternator
Truck was a southern truck no frame rust or rot

Ok here's my opinion on this but I'll warn you it goes against pretty much everything said so far. It's very possible to build a a 700hp DD that still tows and doesn't black out streets if you set it up right. Remember if you don't push the pedal all the way and hit full boost, you're not making 700hp.

But it depends on what you want from it really. It looks like it was built to be a sled puller. Engine built for high RPM, big fuel, and a 2.6 turbo.

Engine build looks really nice with a couple small things I would've done in addition to the list but no big deal. I'd say it'd handle pretty much anything you throw at it.

The turbo will be laggy on the street, and it's probably gonna be pretty smoky too. And it'd be pretty hard to tow with. I'd ditch the turbo for a set of twins.

The 5x18 injectors are pretty big, but with the proper AFC setup and tuned good they shouldn't be an issue. Depending on your power goal and what kind of air setup you went with a fuel plate might be nice to limit the top end temps and smoke. But also remember the plate only affects fueling at fuel throttle and full rack travel. So just normal daily driving it won't make any difference whether you have one or not.

Really the only issues I have with it are the turbo, and the full time locker in the rear. That'd suck to drive with.

EDIT: Treed by lostnwalmart.

 

My major concern is the truck is build to be abused. It would amaze me if someone went through all the trouble but never actually beat on it. My truck, although it needs body work, was as virgin as it gets. 94,000 miles of sweet unmodified Cummins beauty.

 

It's a puller. DD my butt.

 

I don't know much about Cummins because I've driven Powerstrokes my whole life. As you can imagine, they're quite different and understanding modifications is proving difficult. I'm looking at a 97 with 160k on it. The mods are below:


1997 Dodge 2500 ext cab long bed
12v Built

port and polished head
bored out 20 over
hamilton cam 210/220 helps in spooling
5k gs just allows it to fuel to 5k+, doesn't mean you have to Rev to 5k all the time.
5x18 injectors I understand injectors measured in injector and nozzle size over stock. 165/80, 200/200, etc. What is 5x18? 5x18 are a little large, but completely driveable
fly cut cut pistons
arp head studs
Bottom end 14mm girdle
s400 t4 turbo I'm guessing a s466? What housings are available for your motors?
Ats 3 piece manifold
no fuel plate
1/2 fuel lines
built sdx 450 pump
fass pump (150)
dave gorend trans fully built (just went over with 6-20-13)
triple disc torque converter
(with lock up)
fully locked dana 80 Doesn't this make the rear tires chirp in corners?
posi locker in the front
built transfer case.
Trac bars
4in turbo back to 7inch mitre stack
Brand new batteries
Bran new alternator
Truck was a southern truck no frame rust or rot


Is there anything alarming in the above mod list? The truck was built 10k ago and the guy selling says it's his DD. I imagine that it's overkill for a DD and that it's probably pretty smokey. He says that it dyno'd at just over 500hp but the dyno operator didn't lock it up like he was supposed to. I'm being told this build should be closer to 600hp. Does this sound right?

I've highlighted the mods that I'm not familiar with. Can I get some clarification?

Thank you

Wow, what a bunch of whiners on this site now. This trick is completely dd-able, it had a proper amount of fuel for the turbo on it. And would be completely drivable without smoke if you knew how to drive/tune it.
But I can completely see where a stock truck would be more fun....

I dd a 12v with a single 66, 2600 stall converter, 500cc pump, 5x16 injectors, manual vb and a hood stack.

 

thats a really high stall for a 66 planing on going bigger? Also i agree with you completely. My truck isnt my dd anymore but some weeks ill drive it and it does just fine. 13mm 770cc pump, 5x20 injectors, manual vb, 63/68 gt55 twins, and a spooled rear end plus some more. The truck above would be perfect dd material in my book.

 

Just cause your good with driving a puller as DD and we aren't doesn't make us whiners. The dude asked our opinion. Grow up.

 

Yes my truck is a total puller. What gave it away? Was it the lowered stance or the nitto 420s? So because I drive a modded truck that is tuned right and does not smoke it is a puller? I'm confused, am I not in the performance section? He asked if it could be daily driven and if they were good parts. You guys are saying all the parts are a waste and could not be driven in the street. Just giving the other side of view.

 

Just because you can't or don't want to drive a puller doesn't mean it can't be done either. Would I personally want to drive that truck everyday with that big single turbo? No, but it can certainly be done and a lot of people do it. It comes down to building what you want and need. You seem happy with 250-300hp. That's great and there's nothing wrong with that. But a lot of people like power and going fast. And there's nothing wrong with that either.There's a great many 12 valves running around the country as DD vehicles with anywhere from 6-800hp.

By the way Rick awesome truck! I'm not a big fan of hood stacks but it fits the truck.

 

Mmmm I smell a wicked street truck ripe for twins!

 

Noone ever said it cannot be done. I could drive just about anything down the street, it could be done. What's being said here by some, in plain english, is it would be unpleasant. Others say its drivable. Thats fine too.

If I had to drive it as a daily driver, I would probably run twins to keep the smoke down. I would also have to swap out the front and rear diffs for either really good LSD's or e-lockers.

 

I'm looking at replacing the front and rear axles and throwing a set of twins in there or just a smaller single. I don't need high end power and it would be a toy mostly. I'd rather have the quicker spool. I can handle the big injectors so I may keep those.

 

You won't need to mess with the front imo because these trucks have a cad (central axel disconect) and a collar seperates the two front axles unless you are in 4wd.

 

You may need to throw a fuel plate in there if you put in a smaller turbo.

 

I would say slap a set of twins on it! Best of both worlds! Quick spool and still able to use the 5x18's.