Schaefers 7000 (Semi Synth) is Really good oil.

I'm currently switching to Amsoil Marine CI grade Sny. Oil....


As far as filters go, most are good....I've just always heard NOT to use a FRAM! Test showed that it is junk...

 

I like Rotella T but their are a lot of other very good brands.
NEVER use FRAM
I use Napa Gold filters they are made by WIX very good filters.
I also run two fuel filters one stock fuel water separator and one aftermarket 2 micron.
Change oil every 7,000 miles

 

i use rotella 15w30, change it every
10k miles with wix filter. change fuel
filter every 5k miles with wix as well.

 

Amsoil for me.. Cummins/ Fleet guard Stratapore filter

 

I use Valvoline 5w-40 and a Wix filter, change it around 10K miles, never over that although it would probably be fine. I agree, never use Fram on out trucks! I would run Amsoil, but there are no dealers within 40 miles of here so I just use what is available off the shelf at the parts store about 2 miles away.

 

Valvoline is what I use. I know shell rotella is foriegn, but I'm thinking valvoline is processed in the states. If it isn't, I'll always pretend like it is.

 

Book calls for a change every 7500, I used Napa Gold and they seem to work well. Try that and send a sample to see where your motor is, pretty cheap at $22 or so. Fuel filters should be 7500-15000 depending on where/what kind of fuel your getting, more often if your unsure of fuel quality, Baldwin pf7977.

 

4 is good but i do 3 because it's FREE:thumbsup:from my dealer

 

I Do Every 4k Miles And I Use Only Rotella Nothing Else I Also Use It In My Cbr600rr. And I Use A Mopar Filter Cuz Here At Our Dodge Store I Have Heard Of Warranty Not Being Valid Due To Using An Aftermarket Filter

 

3 gallons of any name brand 15-40 diesel oil (Rotella, Mobil Delvac, Valvoline Premium Blue) will work just fine. 7,500 miles is the recommended oil change interval but I change conventional 15-40 at 5,000 miles. During the winter months, I run Rotella 5-40 synthetic for easier/quieter cold starts and change every 7,500 miles. I really like the conventional Mobil Delvac 15-40. The Mobil Delvac has no post oil change smell like Rotella and has a built-in pour spout in the cap. I use all Napa Gold/Wix filters(104,000 miles) on my truck:
2846- air filter
7620 or 7620XE- oil filter
3585XE- fuel filter

 

Amsoil diesel marine with a BMK-21 bypass kit. That way I do oil analysis instead of changing my oil. Way cheaper and less waist. 3-4K is good if your running conventional oil.
If you don't have a Amsoil dealer near you then just call Amsoil and become a prefered member and they will ship to your door. No more looking for a dealer.

 

I use Case No. 1 Engine Oil. However, Shell Rotella, Mobil Delvac, Chevron Delo, Castrol Tection, and Walmart Supertech 15w-40 will all cause your engine to outlast the rest of the truck.

 

whatever's on sale at Costco, Walmart, Napa, Autozone. the $8>$10 gallon stuff.
Delo, Rotella, Delvac, Valo PB.
scrotum kick the oil company CEOs.
Cummins Stratapore oil f.
Baldwin PF7977 fuel
every 5k, winter and summer
tow heavy

 

surfram, from everything I've heard you're really not supposed to switch back and forth from convetional to synthetic. Once you get the synthetic in there you should probably keep it that way.

 

This is one of those wives tales that has been perpetuated by the internet.

 

That has always been what I have been told, done, and read as well. I do know I have more leakage since I switched to synthetic, nothing dripping just more of a film of oil.

 

For all of you guys advocating changing oil at 3-4K have you ever done an Oil Analysis at that interval, and what where the results? Unless there is something wrong with your truck, you're wasting your time and money changing that often.

Of course I understand its your $ and you can do whatever you want with it, but it is a bit of overkill.

 

A wise man once said "Grease and oil is cheap...parts ain't".

I switched from 75k aweswome miles of using Delo 400 to the new Rotella T6...truck quieted down a little and is smooooth (all while using Fleetguard Stratapre filters of course). Overhead mpg liar even went up a little...

 

the oil company execs would love all of you to switch to PAO/ester based synthetics. their limited manufacture quantity PAO/ester base stocks prices would triple and PAO/ester oils would go to $30 a quart.
there are few oil companies with the engineering talent or refinery chemical plant capability to boost PAO/ester production.

the miltary and commercial aircraft industry will outbid and outpay you every price increase. they have to have PAO/ester oils in their apps.

the group 3 pseudo syns are still made from crude oil by advanced refinery cracking and hydro treating. they are little better than a good old group II+ such as Delo CJ.

 

I have tested my Amsoil at 20k and they said it was still good. I had already changed it! I typically run 20k on it but I read on the internet they are boosting the change interval from 25k to 50k for diesels without testing. If you test you can go until the results say to change. My distributor went 300 k with only filter changes and topping it off using testing.

 

are you running the same motor oil for 2 winter driving seasons without change?

 

If people are changing their oil at 3k and it's costing them $44 at a time ($11 per gallon of oil, $11 for a filter, which is what I paid last night), then a $25 oil analysis wouldnt be very cost effective for them.

 

Faulty logic my friend, if there doing 2 1/2 oil changes at $110 compared to my ONE /with analysis at $66 ($44 oil + $22 UOA) they are still spending almost TWICE as much as me and have no clue whats going on in their motor. Plus their dumping more oil that may still have life left in it into a hole in the ground.

On a side note, my oil changes only cost me $25 after a smoking deal on Delvac at O'Rielys and Napa's annual filter sale where I stocked up on their Gold filters. So my total cost for oil change and UOA is just over $50 with postage, plus I know whats going on inside the old girl. arty018:

 

Why does that make a difference steelhead?

 

Yes, true. I do UOA on my equipment, even though I use awful petroleum oil that's grinding away my engine. Or whatever the reason petroleum oil is so bad.

I was just pointing out that most people are content to drain their 3 GALLONS of oil and replace it and be on their way.

 

Buy a pizza and throw half away, buy 10 gallons of fuel and pour 5 gallons in the ditch, buy a 12 pack of beer and dump 6...thats all I'm saying!

i dont use them but whats wrong with fram

Never ever performed well in any test I have seen.

 

i dont use them but whats wrong with fram

 

One thing I found out was that there is enough residual oil left in the engine to contaminate the new oil: I made the mistake of going 9900 miles on the old CI-4+ Rotella 5w-40 synthetic and the iron level got up to 104 (according to Blackstone) which continued to elevate my subsequent oil change (went back to Amsoil 15w-40).
So after 5k miles (when I got my UOA back) I completely switched over to the Amsoil 5w-30 with the bypass filter. I spent beau coup $$$ but I bought this truck new and it will be my last one. All wear levels are nice and low now (after 5k miles) but the viscosity is a little high (not such a bad thing) considering contamination from the previous oil.

I guess the moral of this story is: You're flying blind w/o oil analysis.

 

15w40 non synthetic mobil 1 delvac
cummins filter (i think? was from cummins shop)
chhange every 10k. i plan to go back to castrol as it was the quietest with the motor

 

Shell Rotella-T Synthetic 15w 40
FLEETGUARD LF16035 Oil Filter
FLEETGUARD FS19856 Fuel Filter
Change every 7500 miles.