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I know you get one if vent hose is blocked or pinched ... and.... if vent hose backs up it may cause seals to leek.. once blockage is fixed , in most cases the leek goes away...
 
When you guys cleaned off all the glue was there any little tiny sparkles left almost in bedded into the plastic? iv sanded it down and washed with goof off and hot water, now letting it dry, i feel smooth all over just a little sparky, i sanded off all that left over shinny black glue but it still looks like there's some sparkles left, im guessing that should be clean enough for install?
 
About to ditch the breather filter and just run a hose to dump on the ground. 2 weeks on and my breather is dripping onto my exhaust manifold. Could be due to only having a 45 degree hose angle vs 90 but I've also seen people running no angle and a breather filter.
 
Well might be worth a try then. Once I get around to it, I'll let you guys know.


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I had done this earlier this year, I gutted my filter, put it back in and then ran the hose through a catch can I had on my hemi challenger (Billet Technology). It threw a code and the dealer spotted the catch can and said that was the cause, it only had water in it and not a drop of oil.

I have since replaced all the stock items, I even put in a new filter to avoid any issues.
 
This may be a stupid question and has probably even been asked before, but I'm considering doing this mod to my truck because I don't like the idea of any oil being dumped back into the intake right in front of the turbo

Does the truck need to be deleted before performing this mod to avoid a CEL? Or is it okay to gut the filter and re-route the drain on a factory, emissions in place, truck?
 
This may be a stupid question and has probably even been asked before, but I'm considering doing this mod to my truck because I don't like the idea of any oil being dumped back into the intake right in front of the turbo

Does the truck need to be deleted before performing this mod to avoid a CEL? Or is it okay to gut the filter and re-route the drain on a factory, emissions in place, truck?

So far i have had it for 3 days on stock, mine was completely nasty when i did it so i noticed a pretty big difference... I set it up like muzzy did. Im deleting tomorrow though, so wont be able to say much on longevity about it.
 
This may be a stupid question and has probably even been asked before, but I'm considering doing this mod to my truck because I don't like the idea of any oil being dumped back into the intake right in front of the turbo

Does the truck need to be deleted before performing this mod to avoid a CEL? Or is it okay to gut the filter and re-route the drain on a factory, emissions in place, truck?
No.
I runned the CCV delete on my stock truck for almost 20,000miles without issues before doing the deletes
 
So I have about 7K miles since I made my catch system. This is my first time cleaning the air/oil separator since I installed it.

Image


That would have been in the CCV filter restricting crank case evacuation. So far not one drop of oil on the driveway or garage floor since installing my evacuation setup. Engine oil level has stayed at or near full while into 8K miles of my 10K oil change interval (this along with lack of any observed leaks is evidence of good engine sealing with proper evacuation).

-Muzzy
 
I forgot to mention the separator from Harbor Freight had to be modified to work. It is designed to work on a pressurized system and has a self purge valve (bottom of bowl) that is held closed under pressure, but opens when the pressure is relieved to empty moisture or oil collected. In a CCV system, the valve would remain open since the system is under vacuum pulling in air from outside and allowing anything collected to leak out. I drilled out (I think is was a 1/4" bit) the staked area inside the bottom of the valve to allow it to separate. I replaced the valve with a stainless machine screw and nut so it no longer functions as a valve and is sealed shut. You will need to do something similar if you want to use this separator.

I chose this one because of the large inlet and outlet. The current CCV system uses 3/4" hose. This separator has 1/2" NPT inlet and outlet. I could then maintain the same 3/4" hose diameter the system utilizes.

-Muzzy
Muzzy,I'm trying to visualize the modification to the separator. Can you give more detail on how to disabled the auto drain and maybe a picture of what you used to seal it up? Also when you connected it back to the intake near the turbo did you just use a standard pvc elbow at the separator outlet and then piece the heater hose with the intake hose? Looks like a hose coupler in line of some sort. Any help would be great.
 
Muzzy,I'm trying to visualize the modification to the separator. Can you give more detail on how to disabled the auto drain and maybe a picture of what you used to seal it up? Also when you connected it back to the intake near the turbo did you just use a standard pvc elbow at the separator outlet and then piece the heater hose with the intake hose? Looks like a hose coupler in line of some sort. Any help would be great.
I am away from home until Sat for work. I will take some better pictures this weekend when I get home.

There is a nurled head on that separator valve that prevents you from taking it apart from the bowl. You need to drill the head of it off similar to removing a pop rivet. Once you do that it will come apart. Then I just used a machine screw, two washers, and a nut to seal up the hole with just a dab of RTV. One washer on the inside and one out with the separator in between.. I will take some pics of that too when I get back.

-Muzzy
 
Mines the same setup (thanks muzzy), all i did was hold it shut and put some epoxy on it, held really good so far.
 
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nah mine sealed back really good
 
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